wjmdes

Low Slope Truss Roof with Parapret

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This has been a nightmare, but I have accomplished most of want I needed to do for a variance submission.  It is a second story addition on an existing building.

365778723_FLOYD1.thumb.JPG.fb328a5db6e7095b3dbf4a3d64469bf7.JPG

 

Not sure how to fix this, but the walls do not generate correctly. I have settings messed up somewhere and have tried a 3rd floor and other things.  I think it might be the truss, but not sure.

 

2065073210_FLOYD2.thumb.JPG.c90db2476ffa271a570a8aaccc48ca85.JPG

 

I have watched a bunch of videos and am just stuck....

20-2052 600 Floyd - Copy.zip

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You don't have a third floor for the parapet walls.  I am not sure what that molding is but when I opened it up and saw your walls are "dragged up to position I figured that is probably the issue.  Build a third floor with a railing wall set to heights with cap, inside finish, etc.  Place your roof system inside of those walls.  

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1 hour ago, rgardner said:

You don't have a third floor for the parapet walls. 

Yea, I had that, then did not.  I have tried again.  It has something to do with the floor settings of the upper floor and the ceiling settings of the floor below the roof trusses (I think)

I don't know how to tell chief I'm using trusses in this situation.

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Posted (edited)

Here is my take, no 3rd floor, attic walls

Note that the exterior walls 2nd floor need to be selected, DBX/Structure/Default wall top height  checked to reset them.

I think when you drag the wall up in 3D that is unchecked by Chief.

20-2052 600 Floyd - AB.zip

CA Trusses.JPG

Edited by ACADuser
Added Picture

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How do you do a third floor atop a roof.

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1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

How do you do a third floor atop a roof.

You don't,, have to use a symbol  or a mold'g p-line for the parapet

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7 minutes ago, DRAWZILLA said:

You don't,, have to use a symbol  or a mold'g p-line for the parapet

Not correct.  Make the third floor the hight of the parapet and the roof goes to the inside material and raise or lower as needed.

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ok but that is not what he is asking . He wants a railing wall over a roof. can't do it

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10 hours ago, wjmdes said:

This has been a nightmare, but I have accomplished most of want I needed to do for a variance submission.  It is a second story addition on an existing building. Not sure how to fix this, but the walls do not generate correctly. I have settings messed up somewhere and have tried a 3rd floor and other things.  I think it might be the truss, but not sure.

 

2065073210_FLOYD2.thumb.JPG.c90db2476ffa271a570a8aaccc48ca85.JPG

 

 

 

It's in your settings somewhere, as the 3rd floor Option works for me ( pics below ) with the Roof Plane drawn over the 2nd floor wall , and snapped to the Interior side of the Solid Railing Wall .  IF ? ( haven't opened your plan) you used Open Below on the 3rd Floor "Room" you won't get the Wall Framing generating as you want it too, instead set the Floor Finish and Structure on the 3rd floor to 0" and delete the material from the DBX. Leave Ceiling in , at least at 1st or the Trusses may not Draw as the need a ceiling and Roof plane to generate.

Railing Walls do not appear to get the double top plate , so you will need to copy and drag the Top Plate down to double them up. etc.

 

image.thumb.png.91bd926a55aecbe8e15228477ec88fa8.pngimage.thumb.png.b6e7b58e561b6b0f81cd5eb1cfe5179e.png

image.thumb.png.39c25a5eedd4bb75900679d4bc8cfd63.pngimage.thumb.png.8fc6b39a7186f22c90cfa0d11d173c20.png

image.thumb.png.4f41a5502bfb07128bc9582a21a5c492.png

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6 hours ago, ACADuser said:

 

CA Trusses.JPG

So, when I regenerate the wall framing on this file it ads a 3rd top plate that cuts into the truss.

 

56 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

image.thumb.png.91bd926a55aecbe8e15228477ec88fa8.pngimage.thumb.png.b6e7b58e561b6b0f81cd5eb1cfe5179e.png

This does the same thing.

 

At the end of th day the section should produce this:

1839083840_Capturefl.thumb.JPG.dd2ee88b5e2b953c2584313e0bce152c.JPG

 

Is this something acceptable to send support and have them figure it out?

 

 

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14 minutes ago, wjmdes said:

So, when I regenerate the wall framing on this file it ads a 3rd top plate that cuts into the truss.

 

This does the same thing.

 

At the end of th day the section should produce this:

1839083840_Capturefl.thumb.JPG.dd2ee88b5e2b953c2584313e0bce152c.JPG

 

Is this something acceptable to send support and have them figure it out?

 

 

 

Perhaps you should of supplied the "This is what I want produced from the Start" and we would of said it can't be done auto... and you wouldn't be so frustrated....  I did mentioned, you will need to change some of the Framing manually as Chief will not frame that Automatically,

eg move the bottom Plate of the railing wall up to be the double top plate and copy it for the one at the Roof surface.

 

M.

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The studs for that top wall simply sister alongside the truss ends, and whatever top plating, single or double, goes atop.  So in fact it is a wall conjoined with the truss ends, and one of the images above, I forget which, depicts it perfectly.  Who would want to build a wall atop the deck with studs only a few inches long.

 

But I used to frame, so what do I know?

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3 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

Perhaps you should of supplied the "This is what I want produced from the Start" and we would of said it can't be done auto... and you wouldn't be so frustrated....

Perhaps I made the assumption that this was the only way to build this... and even included a sketch.  

 

1463940551_FLOYD2.thumb.JPG.599bf867309eb212acef6c64219bbc1c.JPG

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2 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

Who would want to build a wall atop the deck with studs only a few inches long.

That was my thought also.

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6 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

But I used to frame, so what do I know?

I'm just asking for help, no need to be insulting.  Sorry, I do not know how everything is framed being a desk jockey, but got most of it down.  Other than the way it was presented I do appreciate it.

 

I ALWAYS do my plans to allow the contractor leeway on details like this.  My attitude is they generally know much more than I do and I would be crazy not to give them discretion on how some things are built. My Goal is to figure out how to get this correct or as close as possible in Chief as I have this and 3 houses that will use this method.

 

And only one of the images above are correct but after downloading and regenerating the wall framing they both show the truss being notched at a bearing plate.  So that seems to be the part I need to figure out at this point!

 

 Nothing like being 99% done with a project and having to regenerate framing and mess up all the things I had to correct by hand.

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Bill,

My process is to draw Railing Walls in the attic. Set the height as desired.
You can use the railing cap for the top of wall flashing but a molding line may be best at the rear top of the wall.
The roof plane will cut the rear wall. Set the 2nd-floor ceiling structure to 0 so the parapet walls will build on the top plate.
Framing for me is like foundations, use the auto to get the basics correct then switch to manual framing.
The front parapet wall can sit on top of the trusses. I like 8 to 10" min height to allow flashing & cap.
Although I have one contractor that just add a flashing to top of trusses. I think this is messy when transitioning to the side walls.

To get the front wall on top of the trusses, frame the wall at your 44" or whatever & then with wall selected open the Wall Detail. Make sure the framing layer is unlocked, select the bottom plate, use transform replicate & raise the plate in the Y direction as needed.
With the plate still selected trim the studs. Simple as that. OH forgot, if the studds are too short there is a bug in Chief that will not trim them properly.

In that case drag on stud into place, delete the others & transform replicate the correct length studs into place.

 

CA PARAPET.JPG

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Just remembered why I don't use the CAP on parapet walls. The cap pushes the top plate down in the wall.

So delete the wall cap & use a molding line to construct the cap flashing.

 

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20 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

Bill,

My process is to draw Railing Walls in the attic. Set the height as desired.
You can use the railing cap for the top of wall flashing but a molding line may be best at the rear top of the wall.
The roof plane will cut the rear wall. Set the 2nd-floor ceiling structure to 0 so the parapet walls will build on the top plate.
Framing for me is like foundations, use the auto to get the basics correct then switch to manual framing.
The front parapet wall can sit on top of the trusses. I like 8 to 10" min height to allow flashing & cap.
Although I have one contractor that just add a flashing to top of trusses. I think this is messy when transitioning to the side walls.

To get the front wall on top of the trusses, frame the wall at your 44" or whatever & then with wall selected open the Wall Detail. Make sure the framing layer is unlocked, select the bottom plate, use transform replicate & raise the plate in the Y direction as needed.
With the plate still selected trim the studs. Simple as that. OH forgot, if the studds are too short there is a bug in Chief that will not trim them properly.

In that case drag on stud into place, delete the others & transform replicate the correct length studs into place.

 

CA PARAPET.JPG

 

Can you post your plan...or a quick sample plan?  And...did you auto build those roof trusses? 

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I drug one roof truss into place, then pulled the ends over the wall as desired, locked the truss & transform replicate the rest.

 

20-2052 600 Floyd - AB.zip

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And for the complaining carpenters, the short front parapet wall, we have the truss company provide a ladder truss(s) to sit on top of the roof trusses.

 

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6 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

I drug one roof truss into place, then pulled the ends over the wall as desired, locked the truss & transform replicate the rest.

 

20-2052 600 Floyd - AB.zip

 

Thanks...that's what I thought you did.  I think the OP was asking if it could be done automatically...and I think the answer is no. If you drag the roof over the front wall then you can't have a parapet...unless you use a p-solid or molding polyline.  

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1 minute ago, ACADuser said:

And for the complaining carpenters, the short front parapet wall, we have the truss company provide a ladder truss(s) to sit on top of the roof trusses.

 

 

Yep...much faster and cheaper really.  Did it all the time in my "apartment" days. 

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2 minutes ago, ACADuser said:

Just remembered why I don't use the CAP on parapet walls. The cap pushes the top plate down in the wall.

So delete the wall cap & use a molding line to construct the cap flashing.

I really appreciate your input, this is a commercial job, however have several residential jobs coming up that will have some low slope roofs.

 

 

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I seem to get a few like that too. B)

WICKMAN.JPG

Elberon.JPG

North A.JPG

Largo.JPG

London.JPG

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