Flush eaves not working still


robdyck
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Has anyone figured out the secret sauce to smear on a flush eave? What the heck is up with these things? The roof produces soffit material and wall surface material in the same place.

And I was gonna go the whole day without cussin...it's every single one on every house.:angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry::angry:

image.thumb.png.e566edeb5617e06d3a2d6a0aab391567.png

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7 hours ago, Ridge_Runner said:

The flush eave back at the gable wall intersection.

Flush eave?  There's a gable overhang and an eave overhang.  It seems it's finishing the end of the soffit that's being talked about?
This... ?
I guess they do call it a flush eave on the dbx setting, but that just seems odd to me.  To me a flush eave means no overhang.
Anyway... I've got no problems with it.

Eave.JPG

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10 hours ago, Ridge_Runner said:

Robert says his is producing two materials, not just the siding. Hard to tell from his camera angle.

Wall siding material: White board&batten siding

Soffit material: black aluminum soffit

These 2 material are in the same place so they're z-fighting. Messes up the 3d views and the elevation views.

In elevation view it displays patterns for both materials: the vertical pattern of the siding and the horizontal pattern of the soffit. So that creates a lot of clean up in layout or a cad mask in elevation.image.thumb.png.bc09bb0db812ca37fcd62691cb1cdd4d.png

The same happens in 3d...patterns and material colors z-fightingimage.thumb.png.95d983ee6d057ff2c06e73106034600e.pngimage.thumb.png.3a106ba47f883b623ce1bac23644bdef.pngimage.thumb.png.d58074903974aa874ebf64bed2c6da21.pngimage.thumb.png.2dfa9b9e3ecdf5c0b67b2db24a2b3a3c.pngimage.thumb.png.fc05de85b4aa96696d08202812414650.png

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22 hours ago, DavidJPotter said:

What settings are you using in the "Build Roof" dialog "Overhang"? I am not getting the results you are getting in my X12.

24" & 24". That matches with what's been used on most of the building. There are a few sections with shorter overhangs, like shed dormers. The flush eaves wouldn't work on those either. I got a flush eave on one side, and a boxed eave on the other so I just turned off boxed eaves for those roof planes.

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You got me.. 
I messed around a bit.  Interestingly after toggling boxed eaves on and off and futzing around a bit the z-fighting problem went away on the left side of the roof (main structure)... but it finished the flush eave with the soffit material instead of the wall material.  Then undoing and redoing a few steps and the problem came back.  Some weird behavior.
Sorry.. beyond my ability

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58 minutes ago, DzinEye said:

FWIW, This is what I got...

Thanks for taking a stab at it! I don't think I can say I've ever had these generate reliably. Often, I've used a triangle p-solid drawn in elevation view, because it blends with the wall surface material and doesn't generate any BS lines to remove in layout. And then another solid for the soffit. 

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Rob,

 

The problem stems from your wall definition. You don't have a sheathing layer, just a single exterior layer. If you split up the 1 1/2" board and batten layer into 2 layers, say, 1 1/8" board & batten and 3/8" OSB, the z-fighting disappears. Seems odd that those 2 things would be related though... might want to report that to Chief.

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1 hour ago, LevisL said:

Rob,

 

The problem stems from your wall definition. You don't have a sheathing layer, just a single exterior layer. If you split up the 1 1/2" board and batten layer into 2 layers, say, 1 1/8" board & batten and 3/8" OSB, the z-fighting disappears. Seems odd that those 2 things would be related though... might want to report that to Chief.

Well that seems messed up but apparently the secret sauce for a flush eave needs to be spread on at least 2 layers thick to be sweet and tasty! I added a 2nd exterior layer (housewrap / 0 thickness) and that did the trick.

I was working on another plan and I was thinking about trying the same thing...adding a sheathing layer.

I bet that weird wall assembly must have had you wondering...It's an existing building that has the 2nd floor balloon framed against a 15' tall fir wall. So the plan is to add a knee wall on top of the existing fir wall and, for vertical reinforcement of the hinge connection, a new framed wall inside of that at 97 1/8" tall. All engineer verified, of course.

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2 hours ago, LevisL said:

Rob,

 

The problem stems from your wall definition. You don't have a sheathing layer, just a single exterior layer. If you split up the 1 1/2" board and batten layer into 2 layers, say, 1 1/8" board & batten and 3/8" OSB, the z-fighting disappears. Seems odd that those 2 things would be related though... might want to report that to Chief.

Nice catch Levis.  I tried changing the wall material thinking it might be something to do with the wall, but didn't think number of layers would be the issue.  Very interesting.

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2 hours ago, robdyck said:

I bet that weird wall assembly must have had you wondering...It's an existing building that has the 2nd floor balloon framed against a 15' tall fir wall. So the plan is to add a knee wall on top of the existing fir wall and, for vertical reinforcement of the hinge connection, a new framed wall inside of that at 97 1/8" tall. All engineer verified, of course.

At first glance I found it odd that you had double walls on the second floor, but not the main floor. I figured it out pretty quick when I checked the wall type definition! No further questions... you do what you have to do with renos. There’s some weird stuff built out there, especially some of those farmer builds!!!

 

1 hour ago, DzinEye said:

Nice catch Levis.  I tried changing the wall material thinking it might be something to do with the wall, but didn't think number of layers would be the issue.  Very interesting.

 

When I was first looking for the issue, I was comparing roof settings with one of my own plans. Nothing stood out there. Then I checked attic walls. Still no fix. Then raising the roof. Nothing. Then I focused on the double walls on the second floor. At first, I moved the outer framing layer up to make it an exterior layer. That solved the flush eaves problem, but created a whole bunch of other issues! So I just split the exterior layer into sheathing and siding and that was the trick. 

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