SNestor

Floor Joists Under Walls

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Is there a way to control whether Chief draws a floor joist under a wall?  I have the spacing set to 24" oc...and everywhere there is a wall above that is parallel with the joists...Chief seems to double up the floor joists.  

 

Just wondering if there is a control somewhere that determines this...

 

thanks!

 

          5a99b2874934e_joistlayout1.thumb.png.fc9a3ea148e7d46f67c87476d64ca330.png

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This is one of my biggest pet peeves about Chief's auto floor framing and I don't believe there's any way of controlling it.  If somebody could show me otherwise, I would be stoked.  I think the 2 best options are manually deleting after framing or temporarily changing interior walls to invisible, framing, and then changing walls back.

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15 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

This is one of my biggest pet peeves about Chief's auto floor framing and I don't believe there's any way of controlling it.  If somebody could show me otherwise, I would be stoked.  I think the 2 best options are manually deleting after framing or temporarily changing interior walls to invisible, framing, and then changing walls back.

 

OK...thanks for the info Michael. 

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Just save the extra floor joist to replace the floor joist the plumber will chainsaw out of his way for the toilet drain.

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That used to be the code to put dbl. flr. jsts. under a wall. don't remember what year code people changed it.

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It's still the code for bearing partitions. See R502.4 in California. Personally, I appreciate the double joists appearing as a reminder, and usually would want them anyway. 

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I also still put them under all parallel walls bearing or not. just b/c walls weigh more than not.

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4 hours ago, SNestor said:

Is there a way to control whether Chief draws a floor joist under a wall?  I have the spacing set to 24" oc...and everywhere there is a wall above that is parallel with the joists...Chief seems to double up the floor joists.  

 

Just wondering if there is a control somewhere that determines this...

 

thanks!

 

          5a99b2874934e_joistlayout1.thumb.png.fc9a3ea148e7d46f67c87476d64ca330.png

 

I wish we could control this.  I have sent this request in the past.  

 

It it seems like sometimes they get doubled up and sometimes not.

 

i am referring to non-bearing partitions.

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Richard, we have the same rule, it's the nation wide code requirement.

R502.4 Joists under bearing partitions.
Joists under parallel bearing partitions shall be of adequate size to support the load.
Double joists, sized to adequately support the load, that are separated to permit the
installation of piping or vents shall be full depth solid blocked with lumber not less
than 2"  in nominal thickness spaced not more than 4' on center. Bearing partitions perpendicular to joists shall not be offset from supporting
girders, walls or partitions more than the joist depth unless such joists are of sufficient
size to carry the additional load.

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We use a lot of trusses so many interior walls are non-bearing,  those are the walls that I would rather not have double jets under.

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1 hour ago, dshall said:

We use a lot of trusses so many interior walls are non-bearing,  those are the walls that I would rather not have double jets under.

I will run into trusses about 30% of the time, mostly conventional for me. Any bearing walls on the 2nd and above floors will usually have beams under

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The Planning Dept. here in Houston will require doubling joists under walls above.

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This past weekend I walked through 4 homes under construction here in beautiful Westfield, Indiana.  The floor system used n each home was I-Joists.  No conventional 2x10's to be seen...looks like that method of construction has finally been banished...at least in high priced homes.  The homes I walked were all large and will probably sell for a million dollars or more...the lots in this subdivision sell for anywhere from 150K to 250K.  For you California guys...this is a high priced home in Indiana...these homes will all be over 6,000 sf with full basements and very high quality finishes.  

 

All but one home used roof trusses...so, interior load bearing walls were mostly non-existent...except for the home with the conventionally framed roof.  In all of the homes there wasn't a single case where I saw an I-Joist located beneath a wall above.  In fact...it appeared to me that the joists were deliberately spaced to make sure there wasn't an I-joist under a wall.  The spans were long in all cases...and the I-Joists were spaced 16" oc.  

 

Honestly...I'm not sure what our code requires here in Indiana...I can attest to the fact that code compliance for single family construction is not as restrictive as some states...such as sunny California.  That said, I'm not sure what good it would do to place an I-Joist under a non-load bearing wall.  The only thing I can see happening is an electrician or a plumber drilling out the top chord to get his work done.  (apology would come later in the day...I'm sure).  

 

I also think that the lumber dealers here in central Indiana engineer the floors...and most likely even get the design stamped by an engineer.  I believe I-Joist blocking is placed (and specified) for all point loads.   

 

As for Chief...I wish the software would just space the joists as specified...and let us manually place double joists as needed.  But...I also want the stair tool improved.  Looks like we will be waiting on both "wishes" for a bit longer.  :wacko:

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What about the weight of the wall and the studs? Floor systems are designed for a uniform load. A wall above, even if it is parallel to the joist would

add a concentrated load to that joist and may require it to be doubled depending on what the wall is made up from and what is attached to it. (cabinets maybe)

I think the feature is a good reminder and if a particular joist is not needed than just delete it. Just my two cents worth, Bob

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At 90 to 110 PLF for nonbearing walls I only add some crossing members when they run parallel to the joist.

I see in the field the frames rarely add the crossing support under them. It appears the 3/4" plywood is stiff enough to carry that load.

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