MarkMc

I started with the laptop with 2070 Super which is close to a 3060 on that machine. The speed of that didn't cut it for how much I was going to use RTRT quality is fine. NOTE that prior to RTRT I rarely used CPU based Raytrace, only on an occasional exterior, favoring PBR for interiors and the speed. I now do several RTRT views on pretty almost every job. Even on the laptop it's way faster than CPU based but different too. Some things are better- I find it easier to set up, a few not so much- mostly in exteriors and landscape for me anyway. From what I could find the time difference to me is small enough from a 3080 or 3090 for my purposes-so long as I decide when to use RTRT by setting the default for PBR to NOT use it. Helps with the library materials too speed too. I was looking for a balance between time, heat and noise (machine sits an arms length away on the desktop) Settled on a slightly overclocked 3070 and am happy with it. It was nice to save a some $$ but not the driving factor. NOTE that I never see the card use the full amount of VRAM so I seriously doubt that a 3070 Ti is worth the extra cost just to add VRAM. There are several other factors,( clock, CUDA, TFlops) that make a 3080 or 90 faster than the 3070.

I use a toe kick set to 0 so that I can match that to the room baseboard height, Then there is no need to alter the bottom rail and/or allows for rapid change of separations on demand for the entire cabinet. I would do this even if using individual cabinets (Not to mention I think learning how to adjust symbols is a really worthwhile skill I use the custom panel since it looks better in 3D views. Standard door on left, recess symbol on right. Finally stretching it to the length of the wall eliminates the need for math if you can use an even number of panels.It does get a bit trickier than an odd number since Chief won't equalize the vertical sections so then you need math. I think it's still faster than adding individual cabinets but odd number is a pain in either case. Attached has the panel floating in the plan. Wainscott.zip

Another option is to just use cabinets (they say I do this for everything Sequence shown below. You need to make a door symbol for the panel, just a thin slab with a Y origin offset. Cabinet has no back, is 3/4 deep, 0 depth toe, easiest to put molding there to start with, panels are side panel inset and rail and stile width is set in the default. Make one for the tall panels, place a copy on each wall, then stretch to length, then split vertical as needed. Under windows make another.

I use rear doors a lot going back as far as I can remember, but in this case I made the retracted version a shelf, simpler to configure and resize. Image shows cabinet used to make shelf, then each cabinet after hitting with SP. Elevations and 3D are fine, plan is fine for closed but not for open-not really a good way to do open but then I don't think it's needed. The annoying part was the doors since they need to reverse and the symbols seem to be handled differently by Chief.

Not really since IRL the retracted doors always stick out a bit so inserting into the back will show with the doors closed. You can do it that way using different layers. I had a little wait time on the pie and your mention of Rene's and Style Palettes led me to try that. I hadn't thought of using SPs for that, partly since I have not run across one since I started using palettes for cabinets but that is the way to go. Just make a palette of closed doors and another for retracted. Only one click to change and simpler than swapping layers and ref sets and will work with any render technique. Similar strategy could be used for the various lift up doors.

You can do these in a couple of ways, all require multiple layersets. If standard view is suitable then you can do this with 2 plans and a reference layer for the guts and turning cabinet doors on and off. Images show reference layer used, both cabinets are in the exact same place on each plan. One has the guts, the other has the cabinet. This requires two custom door symbols with various origin offsets- bit tricky. NOTE you can get away with increasing the depths of the cabinet and the symbol looks ok in the open door configuration as long as you don't go too far. You can't reduce it and have it look ok. Same goes for width but the retracted doors either embed into the wall or shrink so there are limits. Edit to show inset so doors actually insert, or you have to adjust top and bottom rails-busy making pumpkin pie oops. If you need a rendering technique other than standard then you need to make all of the guts as symbols then figure out how to swap between showing and hiding. Easiest is likely make the guts a symbol on it's own layer that rather than part of a cabinet.

You could fudge it with shutters and custom symbol that has the Y origin offset

My first guess is that you are using point to point dimensions? that would do it. Else sometimes if a manual or end to end dimension is in place and an object it replaced those will show up. I simply never use P to P dimensions unless I have no choice.

The things you mention, doors and colors, will change as long as you left them as "use default" or the wrench is clicked with the little red dot on it. The one that is tricky is material. Changing that in the cabinet defaults is a problem and doesn't work. That needs to be changed in the Material Defaults - Style palettes are great for things that are not dynamic defaults, and you can if appropriate make a style palette for say base cabinets, the when making a similar one for wall cabinets you can add it to the first one, same for tall cabinets. That way you can change a setting on all types of cabinets at once- for instance change the box construction on them all in a room, floor, or plan. Note that I've been seeing some odd behavior with them lately, mostly involving toe kicks. It should be that if a setting is not selected the style palette will have no affect on it. I'm getting some random changes to toe kicks. Been too busy to investigate further and it could be this particular plan which has some odd quirks that may be affecting it. Won't really know till some time next week.

Check Global Symbol Mapping is easiest that I know of

I believe it is per light, after all the length of the rope can be changed. You just need to experiment, compare to other lights sources and decide what works based on the view. I don't count on the lumens being accurate to real life items but I have not tried to make adjustments for that. Image below has a 1200 lumen sconce on the left while the rope light is set at 3" spacing and 125 lumens.

2 Windows Key, type graphic settings, set Chief to high performance. Then NVIDIA control panel, global settings, restore Then NV CP- program settings, set Chief to always use the Nvidia card. Then go to your power profiles and make adjustments or make a high performance power plan (search the web on how). Be sure that machine is set to use high perf power plan on both plugged in and battery. IF you need better battery life and use a different power plan stay away form PBR renderings. While your at it go to your template plan(s) default settings, 3D View Defaults, Rendering Techniques, Physically Based, UNCHECK Use Ray Tracing, (so that DBXs don't use Ray Trace) and set Daytime backrdrop Intensity to something like 500 (may need to turn that down sometimes, rarely do I turn it up) IF you need RTRT then select it for the individual camera using rendering techniques. FWIW my laptop has a bit more kick with a 2070s compared to your MaxQ and can struggle if I'm pushing things but is quite serviceable. Doing the above should end crashes unless there is something amiss with the plan (be very careful importing symbols for instance) and careful about how many lights are in use for a view (use light sets)

I make partitions from the same cabinet type as they will be used. Base cabinet for base, wall cabinet for wall, tall for tall. Helps if need different defaults for type and tidier in schedules since it's in keeping with how mgf's classify them.

A side note, just checked and this can also work for showers. Below, placed shower door, broke wall, dragged down, changed to glass wall, then dragged over side wall, broke front wall then changed side wall and portion of front to pony walls.

You only needed to pull down one wall. Then drag it over the existing walls, it will replace them. That way they are all the same height without fussing. Took me under 5 minutes after I figured it out.

One interior wall that is. not the exterior partition walls. At least that's what I did. Open DBX

NO not a shelf- leave rooms at default. Pick one wall and drag down in perspective, check height in elevation. Drag over all other walls.

Drag one wall down to height you need, I added a wall cap. Then either P to P copy over other walls or drag it over the walls, breaking as needed . I set rooms to have ceiling, got rid of shelf ceilings, and set ceiling finish and structure to default. Drag one.zip

No I'm not. Ran acrss something this AM about VBS causing issues if enabled. Search MSInfo32, look at the bottom for Virtualization-Based Security, if enabled then disable. Maybe?

Did you try Windows Graphic settings? I think starting with Win 10 you need it set there, at least that's what I've been doing.

I posted to your suggestion. I am amazed that I have not seen more folks asking for this over the years, made me feel like a voice in the wilderness. This is NOT an X13 problem, I've sent this in every year during testing since it's been around. Well if you are the KD that gets bitten by this it does matter, a lot. Yeah it's always been there and I agree it's not a bug. It's a complete failure. It would be better if there were no auto finish than playing a hide and seek game to find out how is it is not working in this version. 25 yrs ago that other program had a feature called Enhancer and one thing you could do with that was select Finished Left (or right or both) and go around the floor plan and click on a cabinet. The label would change to show the finished side, from W2136 to W21236-FL. It would also change it on the order (schedule) About 20 or 21 yrs ago they just made auto sides work. I discussed this in an extensive email thread with Chief staff back in X6. Auto finished sides have never worked in CA. In case anyone comes across this and is interested. Current Solution I use. The fastest and safest work around I've found is to: Make an OIP field "F_Sides", in the default for each type of cabinet fill that out with FL; FR. Then wait until everything is place properly. IF you are doing a second version using Save As wait until that is done. Then make sure your preference is set to open to the last tab used. Finally, go around the plan and open each cabinet that needs to be change and delete the unwanted finished sides. IF by chance you miss deleting one it will cost a few bucks extra (less than $50) as opposed if you miss placing a finished side it will cost you a skin and labor OR if frameless it will cost you a cabinet. An alternative is using Style Palettes. You can set a SP to overwrite ALL of the OIP fields. This is fine IF you are not using other fields OR if you use a series of SP that have ALL of the OIP fields you need filled in. But if you have other OIP fields filled in it's a problem. I use SP to fill in all my OIP fields, mods in particular, in cabinets that I use often but not for just sides. Alternatively you could use one of the OOB fields (Comment, Component Code, Description, Manufacturer, Supplier) if you are not using that field otherwise. Just rename the field in your schedule. Then, for instance, you could have 3 Style Palettes all using the Supplier field. One each for FL, FR, and FL; FR.

Can't make one that works in Chief. Even if you could can't control the angle of opening to match what the hardware does which can mater if close to ceiling with some of those. You can make a door symbol that is two doors joined together. You can make a second symbol that is the door open, then play with layers and sets to go back and forth between the two. I've rarely bothered with this, usually for sliding pocket doors, and settle for a detail if need be.

The only significant issues I've had with Chief were solved by setting Nvidia Control panel to Default settings and making sure that in WIndows Graphic settings Chief is set to High Performance. Beyond that, dunno.

First consider-what is being stored where, then frontage from corner to sink or dw and frontage to range. (There are kitchens where the best answer can be to use a corner range or sink instead. Both are not always popular with clients and either should ideally be recessed) Then do some math. Get the specs for ALL options for blind corners form MFG web site- Hafele and Rev-A-Shelf. Calculate usable shelf space for ALL of the cabinets in each run of every config your are considering using the MFG info for the blind corner options available. While you are at it look at not using a blind corner (and NO not a lazy susan) instead kill the corner and look at how to optimize the cabinets you can fit in the run.. About half the time killing a corner allows you to get better and more storage with some thought. You could create a symbol which gets to be pretty advanced. When I was learning to do that I printed out the pages for symbols, the origins and stretch planes in the Reference Manual (get the PDF). How the symbol is configured once made depends on how you want to use it and where. Making some symbols operable can be a challenge IRL often the most practical answer can be to draw something in 2d in plan and add notes in the schedule and maybe the plan. Even if making a symbol you want it to be listed in the schedule. That said for the specific half moon you asked about I'd make it from a custom countertop since it can have a molding built right into it for the edge. The easiest way to use that would be as a shelf. You still have to fiddle with the origin and stretch planes to make it work in a blind. (you also can't have a vertical separation in the middle of the face. I don't know if it would work with an automatic blind since I never ever use those) To have it open with the door you need to use a Door Back Insert in the face item DBX. I find these trickier to configure than normal symbols. They attach to the back of the door, not the back of the cabinet (I like the old name and location better myself) Below are the configurations I used for these. If you decide to try to learn symbol making there are examples scattered around in Tips and Symbols -mostly older threads. Here are the simplest possible results from left to right- the custom countertop before converting to symbol, used as a shelf, altered to use as DBI, then one of each. (to have to DBI you either need two symbols with different Z origin or one symbol with both in it.)