MarkMc

If you don't need tapered legs there are several ways to do that with just the cabinet DBX. Dermot may well be correct that pline solids are easier to do. It is possible with custom door symbols- two methods included in plan, both only partially finished. All of the symbols already used and some of the cad used are included in the plan. Tip- when doing any of these: FIRST set the front to look like what you want the sides and back to look like. Go around to each side and back, select match front, the change to custom face. When done with sides and back go to the front and make it the way you want it to look. To see how the angled drawers and legs are controlled open symbol, look at: the origins, stretch planes and most important the bounding box. The difficulty with using these is figuring out what the bounding box and other settings need to be. The version on the left has the drawer heads set to be shrunk. That would also require a custom drawer box if you need to show it open. The symbols for angled one in the second room have the bounding box set gradually narrower than the drawer opening and will not require a custom drawer box. Shelf bottom vanities.zip

If you have always been on SSA try checking Show Upgraded Product Key? IF that doesn't work call tech support again, not sales.

Will work fine and hold you for 4-5 yrs but no can't upgrade. I think the 3070 is a good choice for laptops balancing heat, performance and price but I'd check to see how thermals are on 3080s. Note that different brands of the same model-3070, 3080, have different specs for power so performance varies. Upgrading: First off the mobo cpu socket changed after the 10th gen Intel chips so even if the CPU meaning the MOBO would need to be changed. 2nd-Pretty much all mobile CPUs and GPUs are soldered making upgrade difficult and expensive. I ran some desktop replacement laptops for a while that were upgradeable (not soldered and had desktop CPUS) but when it was time (after 4-5 yrs) it simply was not worth it. Other- As Kbird1 points out you can get an 11th gen cpu for almost the same $ and some cases for less without the 360hz screen. BTW you're paying a bit of a premium to get that 360hz screen. If you are not a gamer you won't notice. Even if Alienware is your preferred brand I'd look around some for a source like Dell of one that deals with computers, laptops in particular. I've bought from both HIDevolution and Xotic PC (in part because I favor Clevo machines listed as Sager, Evoc, or house brand) both of them carry multiple brands and offer customization so you can at least know what parts you are getting. Good idea to have them improve the thermals with at least a paste job though I get pads as well. Link to assorted 17" laptops w/RTX3070 at HID Link to 17" laptops on Xotic

Export and import should work without issue for actual symbols, but not shortcuts. What have you tried?

Opens this Then click Help or press F1 (you could also do that at the first DBX and then follow links if needed)

FWIW; another trackball user here. Thumb type Logitech for years when I got CTS. A few years ago I switched to Elecom Ex-G Pro, 10 programmable counting the 2 tilt of the scroll wheel that I don't use a lot. (favorite button is assigned to apostrophe + space for entering feet). I use hotkeys for most things instead of icons. Switched my keyboard this year to a 75% low profile Keychron K3 and a number pad on the left, me better desk space. Most hotkeys are two key, though I left some of the single key defaults. The most used are one handed on the left side of the board or combined with mouse buttons. I keep an spreadsheet with 3 sheets, one with all shortcuts alphabetical by 1st key, 2nd is color coded into groups, 3rd is the most used ones or newer ones I need to learn. That spreadsheet is called up with a keyboard shortcut defined in Windows. I have 3 dozen user defined keys in windows for other programs needed often. Those I keep listed (and color coded) in a wordpad document along with the standard Win keys. The WP doc was made as RTF as a table then changed to .wri so it opens fast, also with a keyboarded.

You can get there with 3 cabinets, looks decent in X12 Standard view but not so much in vector- might be a job for poly lines. Much easier to make and look good in X13

Here is RTRT from new camera in 13, started as standard, turned on color, changed to PDB with RT. exported at just 75DPI, sun turned down to 1000, daytime backdrop 500, exposure .18, ambient occlusion at 30

IF I open a new camera in your 13 file it opens as standard with color off. after turning color on it does not refresh until the mouse is moved slightly or possibly a click insede the view Copying a PBR camera from your 12 and pasting in place in your 13 color is there but there is a difference in part since textures and symbols are missing from 12, the 13 image has ray trace off. I made some adjustments to backdrop and sun light IF you are not getting color with any of the above then check that Windows Graphic Settings are has X13 set for high performance.

You can split the sides and back first horizontally, set height of top section and then split that vertically. Then make the back section an opening and the separations that are in the way 0", in X13 make cabinet with no top (12 is a bit different) You can adjust the shelves to put a lower top over the entire cabinet at the bottom of the open section. IF you were to want to have it sealed you would need custom door symbols with origin offsets (Some years ago I posted some methods and maybe parts in wither tips or symbols) For the baseboard we would typically be cutting that away as needed. You could also extend the sides back, again with a custom symbol that is offset to the baseboard. I'd only do that if it were baseboard heat though. Images below, BUT... Now that's all well and good but to place a full height cabinet to the ceiling with no trim at the top is not possible IRL, you can't tilt it into place. At typical ceiling height for a full depth cabinet removing the toe subbase is not enough to allow it to tilt. Image of impossible to install cabinet

Is it a laptop or desktop? specs help fill out your signature please. Does it have an integrated video card as well as a dedicated one?

Yes that's the card in my sig. Not sure I paid that much as I bought a system built to spec and was less than the sum of parts from what I could tell ($3k).

I started with the laptop with 2070 Super which is close to a 3060 on that machine. The speed of that didn't cut it for how much I was going to use RTRT quality is fine. NOTE that prior to RTRT I rarely used CPU based Raytrace, only on an occasional exterior, favoring PBR for interiors and the speed. I now do several RTRT views on pretty almost every job. Even on the laptop it's way faster than CPU based but different too. Some things are better- I find it easier to set up, a few not so much- mostly in exteriors and landscape for me anyway. From what I could find the time difference to me is small enough from a 3080 or 3090 for my purposes-so long as I decide when to use RTRT by setting the default for PBR to NOT use it. Helps with the library materials too speed too. I was looking for a balance between time, heat and noise (machine sits an arms length away on the desktop) Settled on a slightly overclocked 3070 and am happy with it. It was nice to save a some $$ but not the driving factor. NOTE that I never see the card use the full amount of VRAM so I seriously doubt that a 3070 Ti is worth the extra cost just to add VRAM. There are several other factors,( clock, CUDA, TFlops) that make a 3080 or 90 faster than the 3070.

I use a toe kick set to 0 so that I can match that to the room baseboard height, Then there is no need to alter the bottom rail and/or allows for rapid change of separations on demand for the entire cabinet. I would do this even if using individual cabinets (Not to mention I think learning how to adjust symbols is a really worthwhile skill I use the custom panel since it looks better in 3D views. Standard door on left, recess symbol on right. Finally stretching it to the length of the wall eliminates the need for math if you can use an even number of panels.It does get a bit trickier than an odd number since Chief won't equalize the vertical sections so then you need math. I think it's still faster than adding individual cabinets but odd number is a pain in either case. Attached has the panel floating in the plan. Wainscott.zip

Another option is to just use cabinets (they say I do this for everything Sequence shown below. You need to make a door symbol for the panel, just a thin slab with a Y origin offset. Cabinet has no back, is 3/4 deep, 0 depth toe, easiest to put molding there to start with, panels are side panel inset and rail and stile width is set in the default. Make one for the tall panels, place a copy on each wall, then stretch to length, then split vertical as needed. Under windows make another.

I use rear doors a lot going back as far as I can remember, but in this case I made the retracted version a shelf, simpler to configure and resize. Image shows cabinet used to make shelf, then each cabinet after hitting with SP. Elevations and 3D are fine, plan is fine for closed but not for open-not really a good way to do open but then I don't think it's needed. The annoying part was the doors since they need to reverse and the symbols seem to be handled differently by Chief.

Not really since IRL the retracted doors always stick out a bit so inserting into the back will show with the doors closed. You can do it that way using different layers. I had a little wait time on the pie and your mention of Rene's and Style Palettes led me to try that. I hadn't thought of using SPs for that, partly since I have not run across one since I started using palettes for cabinets but that is the way to go. Just make a palette of closed doors and another for retracted. Only one click to change and simpler than swapping layers and ref sets and will work with any render technique. Similar strategy could be used for the various lift up doors.

You can do these in a couple of ways, all require multiple layersets. If standard view is suitable then you can do this with 2 plans and a reference layer for the guts and turning cabinet doors on and off. Images show reference layer used, both cabinets are in the exact same place on each plan. One has the guts, the other has the cabinet. This requires two custom door symbols with various origin offsets- bit tricky. NOTE you can get away with increasing the depths of the cabinet and the symbol looks ok in the open door configuration as long as you don't go too far. You can't reduce it and have it look ok. Same goes for width but the retracted doors either embed into the wall or shrink so there are limits. Edit to show inset so doors actually insert, or you have to adjust top and bottom rails-busy making pumpkin pie oops. If you need a rendering technique other than standard then you need to make all of the guts as symbols then figure out how to swap between showing and hiding. Easiest is likely make the guts a symbol on it's own layer that rather than part of a cabinet.

You could fudge it with shutters and custom symbol that has the Y origin offset

My first guess is that you are using point to point dimensions? that would do it. Else sometimes if a manual or end to end dimension is in place and an object it replaced those will show up. I simply never use P to P dimensions unless I have no choice.

The things you mention, doors and colors, will change as long as you left them as "use default" or the wrench is clicked with the little red dot on it. The one that is tricky is material. Changing that in the cabinet defaults is a problem and doesn't work. That needs to be changed in the Material Defaults - Style palettes are great for things that are not dynamic defaults, and you can if appropriate make a style palette for say base cabinets, the when making a similar one for wall cabinets you can add it to the first one, same for tall cabinets. That way you can change a setting on all types of cabinets at once- for instance change the box construction on them all in a room, floor, or plan. Note that I've been seeing some odd behavior with them lately, mostly involving toe kicks. It should be that if a setting is not selected the style palette will have no affect on it. I'm getting some random changes to toe kicks. Been too busy to investigate further and it could be this particular plan which has some odd quirks that may be affecting it. Won't really know till some time next week.

Check Global Symbol Mapping is easiest that I know of

I believe it is per light, after all the length of the rope can be changed. You just need to experiment, compare to other lights sources and decide what works based on the view. I don't count on the lumens being accurate to real life items but I have not tried to make adjustments for that. Image below has a 1200 lumen sconce on the left while the rope light is set at 3" spacing and 125 lumens.