MarkMc

I'm guessing you're using X13 since you've been around since the fall? Please fill out your signature to make it easier to help. Cabinet, open object, box construction, no bottom. Then Front Side Back, change bottom separation to 1/8 and as an opening, Back-none. If you really want to tile inside the cabinets (I wouldn't) then you change the back to custom face so you can change the material Counter-convert to custom counter. Bar fridge -search your library or the online CA one for specific brands. These are some pretty basic things so to get a little further with this----While you are in the cabinet DBX hit the F1 key. It will bring up help with useful information for the panel you are on. At the top of the help pages there is a button that links to related videos.

Top is counter with molding on edge- bottom can be solid, cabinet, another counter...

Make them from cabinets, change the label and schedule they go in, add to library for re-use

I draw the building, then delete everything but the terrain to draw the second. That way I can reference the original for placement and easier to get height off terrain. In the case of the example there's a breezeway that connects the two which need adjusting in both the original addition and the garage. I always start at 0,0 for the corner of the building so never have an issue with Z fighting. I just find it easier than a symbol if only doing a few structures, never had to do a full development then I likely would go to symbols.

No, long time issue- need to make from 2 cabinets, easier in X13 or 14 BTW. The narrower cabinet has to either overlap the first one or use custom shelf symbols that don't resize. Did this on the fly ( faster than finding an old plan with one in 12) so not exactly up to snuff but you can get the idea.. corner cab.zip

two ways to do it- one is strip down the structure and make a symbol you place in the plan. The other (one I use) is to use reference displays that work for floor plans and 3D views easily enough. Not so simple for elevations which can be done in layout. Image on left shows plan view for garage with referenced plan in red for clarity you can change the reference layerset though, image on right is take in the garage plan with reference to the house with addition. Note that there are ways to manipulate type of view in the 3D, better in X14. At time I use glass house and standard or vector with glass house for instance to show additions.

Export image with Transparent Background checked- save as PNG. Import into layout-image on left is a quick no effort PBR, image on right is Clay with shadows on.

How depends on the condition and your not giving much to go on. (Note that what I said earlier about being controlled by the wall depends on a lot s not exactly accurate-it was for the plan that was posted where you asked) Follows plan with possible start just using default doors with adjustment in the DBX. Doors are going to be trickier than windows. Just takes some fiddling around. One on right is in a pony wall with lower section of wall thinner, right is just in a CMU wall. door in CMU.zip

Did you open the plan to see? Wall type determines the thickness. The one I posted above is just really fast way to do it. If you want to get extremely accurate with all the details in 3D, instead of just using a CAD detail, I posted a version that is done using the specs from the Seagram's building some time ago. The other search is for "curtain wall" Here is link to the Seagrams look alike facade along with some other ideas.

An alternate I thought of while on an errand is using the cad detail to generate 3d molding lines and Psolids. This will work both for wood grain and for doors with an edge profile alternate door under stair.zip

Joey's suggestion is the most direct- just a bunch of polyline solids. The alternatives are making custom door(s) which can be a bit daunting. There are some shortcuts to just building it and I just found one for making doors. Plan attached with assorted parts (sorry I don't do videos) Open things and play which is how I like to learn YMMV Easiest shortcut for look not for real cabinet -start with a wall cabinet with an angled front as on it's back near right hand stair, set angle to match stairs, convert to symbol fixture interior which you rotate while converting. Place that in plan under the stairs, adjust in elevation, To make the DOOR you then TR copy (transform replicate/copy) say 50"; elevation change to all layers off and turn on fixtures-shoot a detail from view. Restore layers You can now go to the detail from view and do some cad manipulation- copy paste back into elevation and convert to polylines-futz a bit more. If you need wood grain doors this gets to be far more complicated. An alternative for the door is shown on the floor to the left. The advantage here is if you need wood grain-see the cherry cabinet on the floor to get an idea. The disadvantage here is working out the math for the door to be absolutely correct (which I did not do) I think the easiest way to get the correct math would be with a detail from view (and some more futz) Convert to symbol. I show a cabinet using a door made that way but had to alter the width for the angle to be correct. Aside from floating a panel in for the blank side (EZ) You could use a custom panel for the side that is set with a locked height, or mess with manipulating the sides and back of the cabinet. I've attached a library with one done that way-still needs work but you can get the gist. The advantage here is you can quickly alter cabinet box proper for different conditions which makes the effort of (fixing this one) worthwhile as well as educational You would still need a specific door for various conditons-width and angle. Under stair cab.zip Alternate cabinet.calibz

What did not work? do you have the molding layer ON? I can't think of another reason.

That is true for plan views, where it gets nasty is elevations get multiple lines layered over each other. At least I've never found a way to get that not to happen, have you? Since I always open dwg files prior to sending the scale is two clicks to solve and border etc a few more so long as layers were exported. To the OP worth checking if they are working on solid black backgrounds, which is very common, and adjust accordingly. Unless your line stiles are all set to Acad colors.Early on I was told a few times that there was nothing there because the lines were all black on black and they didn't select all

I've tested this on several machines over the years. I see best performance with Chief Program and Chief Data files on the fastest drive- I use the C drive. I also keep all current projects on that drive which doesn't really make a noticeable difference but I do that anyway. In large part for simplicity of navigation. They get moved to other drive once complete. Added this is Chief Architect specific, that is the only thing I tested for. AFAIK you do want to avoid any SSD getting crowded say more than half full. As to drive size benchmarks and user results for the file size we typically are writing shows that a 1TB drive is slightly faster than a 500 GB. This is pretty consistent within a specific brand of NVME. But it is splitting hairs IRL. As to the rest I should likely add another storage drive and you have have encouraged me to at least move that up the (endless) list. However there is no way that with what I have on here and the work that I do I would trade having that many drives I need to access things on regularly for a few milliseconds of seek time for the ease of getting to things I use very often. So say 9 of the 10 years of files can move to storage along with some photos, the rest I think I'll keep doing as now.

Often I use Build, Trim, Molding line (I have a hotkey set for that). IT prevents what you are seeing and allows you to vary the overhang on the sides of cabinets better. I also have a macro that determines the number of pieces to order based on length supplied with an allowance for waste. I set the macro in the label most of the time though currently looking at another place for it. Few shots and your plan back Draw one line longer than you need so it's easy to find and set the height-add molding to it. Then grab the end of the line and go around letting it snap to the cabinets as you shape it. Once done IF you need to adjust the overhang on sides select the edge and subtract(or add) to the temporary dimension. then done. Molding on cab.zip

I do what David suggest, from layout is cleaner. Get a copy of a free CAD program that imports DWG so you can see what they see. I use TurboCad Deluxe which is cheap not free but has some other uses.

First I was really happy with AVA. Be sure to find someone to talk with. I worked with Kyle. I've only been glancing at reports lately since I'm some time away from a new build. Might be next year so looking but not in earnest, just seeing what I want to double check along the way. That said, partly based on my last build I'm an i7 fan, even might consider the top end i5. Reasons are heat, power and noise, mostly heat. I prefer air cooled to AIO and don't see enough difference to the i9 in real performance. I try to balance heat, noise, price, and performance.. I've become convinced that just getting the top end is not always worth it for the first 3 with small sufficient gains IRL performance (just my opinion). I am looking forward to the 4000 series which if it does what is rumored will get me to a new build sooner than normal- like next year I hope. So if I were going to plan on that and had to do a new build now I would not go for top end GPU, rather a 3070 which are rare, or a 3060ti. I do enough RTRT and for heat, noise and $$ I don't see using the top end. I would get a branded GPU with at least a slight overclock though, after research. Name brand NVME (Samsung, MSI, Plextor, Sabrent, WD Black, again after research)- 2 of them minimum 1TB but perhaps a 2TB and a 1TB. When researching I look at the performance chart for smaller file size, NOT the big number which never happens with what we do (unless you do huge vids) Minimum 1TB since they slow down if the get filled. More storage as needed but I manage fine with 3 version of Chief and a mess of other stuff with what I have along with 10 years of files that I'm not great about cleaning up. Get upgraded thermal paste...always. No idea about that case but might look into upgrade/adding case fans-I have Silent Wings and very happy. As noted I'm not an AIO user so no comment there. I'd check ratings for power supply now that going to higher watts. Just saw ASUS came out with some huge 1600 watt, I suppose in anticipation? MOBO- Prime is usually good middle ground but with power consumption going up I'd just double check what they say about the VRM. Other than that I simply love extra ports and an internal header. (Nice to see a 2 x 2 there though- get a portable for a few hundred to use it. I've got a portable 2 I use and one of these days will get a 2 x 2 since I have the port-great when moving from one machine to another-faster than the cloud IMO. I keep a bunch on mine now just in case) Ditto to DDR5 memory. I've seen it suggested that there is sufficient difference to having four 8GB over two 16GB. Again all subject to a little research. I check Techpowerup, Tweaktown, and Techspot preferring the first two. Used to go to Anandtech a lot but something changed on the site so don't have that bookmarked any longer. As always YMMV.

Place image in folder XYZ:\...\Chief Architect Premier X13 Data\Images. Place billboard, navigate to image. There is also an option to create a new image though that doesn't seem to work to paint the billboard and not an option to select that I see?

I use Build, Image, Billboard. Always take several shots, turn off backdrop in camera, reduce sun and back drop intensity. Adjust size and height. I like that it can be set to always face camera though sometimes not ideal. Also that it lets light in but doesn't change the color of the light in PBR. Works easiest if the billboard does not have to be really far from window in many cases. I've also used the in interior doorways if there was a nicely detailed room that I did not need to draw but want to show. Just grabbed something for this one quickly. Somewhere I have others from a few years back.

Image is 4 walls with roof and foundation using OOB defaults (including ceiling), 3 lights are from core library. The only change made to any is what is shown in image-light 2. Lights 1 and 3 of the fixture are already at -6. and 0. As Eric pointed out sometimes it's a glossy material that needs adjustment as well or instead. Sometimes with a render open after it refreshes things are not quite the same (sometimes not so good) Could be that or could be possible the ceiling was painted accidentally? It happens when using spray can on something set with same material which one (of several) reason to use defaults to change materials.

Well I thought they used a 3070 or 3080 in those but maybe not. Quadro 4000 comes out ahead of a 2060, behind 2070, 3060 and certainly 3070 and above. Sill should work if a tad slow. (or do I misunderstand what card?). I have no idea if the alleged AMD bottleneck applies to threadrippers or if it matters in Chief at all. Nothing to do about that at this point if it does though. Link to 2070 comparison I keep cap live samples checked and set export samples to around 1500 for general working Generally get good enough at that and avoid running the GPU constantly at 80-1000%. You said yours was not hitting that? In Windows-Graphic Settings do you have Chief set to high performance? At that many passes you should get good results. I'd look into lighting, light sets ( do you have ALL lights on?) ambient occlusion,sun (way too high in your image above), backdrop intensity...all the settings. Renerrabbit has posted some useful tips you might look at. Or as suggested earlier post a stripped down plan with settings. FWIW- arguing that our failure to understand the terms you choose instead of the vernacular of the progam is wrong because you thinks the program is wrong won't go far to finding a solution for you (and won't win a lot of points-just sayin)

Moving it works for me. Yeah that would be nice. The content team does a really nice job overall. RTRT is relatively new and there are thousands of symbols with many needing adjustment, first when PBR came out and then again with RTRT. Did you send in a report/request? Might want to do that. In the meantime once you have one working add to user library, then replace all from library and in the future you can just grab it.

Colors are always different in RTRT than standard view -the light is different so just as IRL. If you want the colors a certain way adjust the color with Physically Based selected, Teapot or Sphere show reflections and lighting a bit better.

Can be tricky. Open the light, go to light data tab. Click show position in camera, sometimes changing the offset fixes, sometimes changing to spot which has other issues and sometimes changing lumens as Gene suggest....sometimes a combination. Once satisfied uncheck show postion.