MarkMc

attached plan with a real quickie made using a regular door, I usually do another way but was in the mood. for this. Might be easier to understand than what I typically do. quick door.zip

Don't know about Ruby but it does not have access to the API in Chief so I don't see how but then someone smarter than me may know a way. What I do know works is using Bluebeam review. I do this for most files- set automatic bookmarks based on page regions - like label area with page number, space, page title. Takes a couple of minutes. (I don't have this part as my version is older but may upgrade just to get it ) In current and newer versions you can then create a PDF table of contents from all the bookmarks, again a few minutes, then insert that back into the original file. You then have a table of contents that are bookmarks as well as individual bookmarks. The last thing is you can add a hyperlink set to All pages that goes back to the table of contents. I don't know if any other PDF program does this, I don't see it in TurboPDF or Foxit, PDF Exchange Pro (cheaper than BB) might do at least some of it.

That's what I use all the time with no problem. I also keep cabinets checked though which means you get the dim for the front overhang. If I don't want that, can either remove the 1-1/2 OR turn off cabinets get the full run then drag diamond to get the cabinet (as long as that layer is on) I rarely use P to P dims and tell all my clients not to use that since too often it's not to a snap point when it should be.

you never showed the DBX of the cabinet depth. The dimension used there is the BOX DEPTH same as any make would. Your image shows boxes that are 24" deep for the tall You can show the doors in plan view by setting that in defaults and turning the door layer on This is what a label would look like if the cabinet depth were 24" including the door

There is a CAD to walls option but it's tricky-I never use it. OTOH I do bring in lots of dgw files. With Grid Snaps OFF!! Import into a CAD detail not floor plan. Have an input point at 0.0 Bring all the layers with it. Take a look and see, if you don't like it try NOT importing hatches, all depends on how things were drawn. then select the complete imported drawing and move one corner that would be on every floor using point to point to 0, 0 now turn off layers you don't need (most of them) keeping walls, windows and doors. Select all, copy and the paste hold position into a cad detail in a separate plan. (grid snaps off) Select all and place on a single layer like Import 1st, while select open object and set lines color and style to be by layer-something easy to see compared to wall-orange, purple, bright green... Set that layer as your current CAD layer, select all, Block, make the insertion point your 0 0 marker. Copy, paste into the floor plan at the correct floor level. Unblock, make sure it is all on that layer, then lock the layer. By unblocking it you can snap to it, by locking it you won't mess it up. All that is under 15 minutes once you get the hang of it. Go to defaults, plan, check use grid snaps, change the snap unit to be the thickness of your sheet rock, then UNCHECK grid snaps. This way if your walls snap to a a framing layer while drawing you can move them with the arrow keys that distance each tap. Trace exterior walls, trace interior walls. AFTER they are all drawn go back and move with arrow key or drag if needed and/or change wall definitions for varied thickness walls. add windows and doors, resize windows/doors as needed. Move on to next floor. Once all floors are in then adjust window heights where needed and proceed with details. While it's not automatic it's pretty fast and certainly beats tracing a PDF and or sorting deciphering dimensions from a print or worse scribbled on manually. It's my preferred method of any.

Fair enough but your link is for Desktop cards and the top end RTX would be a 3090. For mobile cards looking at what is available on a Precision *A4000 Mobile) to the closest gaming card (RTX 3080 mobile) I found this for you. In most the RTX is slightly ahead. The ones that count from what I've seen using CA across 5 machines are Passmark and Open CL (I don't game) The extra memory of the RTX won't be used in Chief so not the advantage for RTX that is listed. FWIW an 11th gen laptop with a 3080 and similar specs to a Precision runs about $1k less and can be found with more customization and control over the system itself. Um? the OP's issue is on Win 11, have your tried X13 on Win 11? your signature says you are running Windows 10? As far as my suggesting to stick with RTX over Quadro...why do what works.

a gaming machine that runs on windows 10. I am NOT recommending an Aware or any Dell. Dollars to donuuts I'd bet my 2070 would hold up against the Precision. Almost every view i Chief is 3D, the developers work on RTX cards and it's been said often by Dermot and others that Chief does not get anything from the extra expense of Quadro cards which always cost more than a gaming card for which Chief is optimized. Go look at the list of software that support Quadros. I'd go to HIDEvolution, check a few machines, call someone, call tech support. You can get a comparable machine, with upgraded thermal protection, burnt in and tested, built to order AND save between $500 and 1000. I'd even go so far as to say get an 11th gen CPU.FWIW this is my 3rd Clevo running CHief and the old one now dontated to my nephew, a 6700k with a GTX 980M 8GB ran X13 during testing without issue, just no RTRT

FWIW, when I first switched to Chief I'd been running Precisions for several years. After just about a year I switched to a gaming machine (clevo/sager) glad I did and would not think of swapping back. For Chief gaming machines work better, now if you run Autocad or Solid works then you will see "some" benefit but Chief will NOT run as well. Image showing one one of the Better? cards in a precision against a 3080

Opened your plan on the laptop, opened 4 of your cameras, moved around, switched one to RTRT- no problems, no fans or noise on mine. Columns on right show maximum temperature hit. Issue could be Win 11. A quick search shows that apparently there are ways to downgrade to 10 Here's one I didn't check them all. Back when I ran Dell Precisions I had one that cooked and got them to swap out the MOBO and fans since those were not running. BUT FWIW I had the thermal protection upgraded on this laptop with upgrade paste and thermal pads (and Clevos are good at cooling) when I got it

Thanks.

@Chopsaw Hey does the attached PDF do what you want. Did this in Bluebeam-created text box, edit action, paste link string, add to my tool chest. Click anywhere to add the link . NOTE the links only work once you download and open in PDF program, they don't work when opening it on the Chief site in browser. Bluebeam has a trial version that last I knew (a while ago so could changed) is fully functional for 30 days. If not and you get me the pdf and info I can add these for you. Pages from grandview.pdf

The Y origin of the symbol needs to be changed. It may be set wrong, or it may be that it is meant to be installed on the floor since it has feet and is not a built in object. In any case you will come across this occasionally. Place the symbol on the floor. Open the symbol, check the depth of the bounding box, copy. Paste into the Y origin, then adjust since the depth includes the handle so would recess too far. I just took a quick guess at correct depth. Generally you want the Y origin set 3/4" back from the face that you want to be flush. Once done add to your user library so you can select it for the cabinet. Then go to the help or reference manual and read up on symbols, origins and stretch planes. Note that a lot of us float appliances in on the Y set to depth of bounding box. Y adjusted (guesswork) From library and original

Um, uh, yeah-me too. First the laptop, then the DT. If I had what you have and could wait until late fall I would before building new or even upgrading. Just use regular PBR or CPU based RT until then. (I'm hoping not to be building another but then who knows...:) I had mine built by AVA Direct and had (has) a full range of GPU choices. I talked with a sales guy to find out which parts of what I wanted had the best availability (IOW in stock) so got my machine in their normal build time of 6 weeks (including burn in and testing). The total was cheaper than parts would have cost me. I see on their site that GPU upcharges have dropped since then too. As to Quadro, i.e. workstation cards, this from Chief website. Video Card (GPU): Also referred to as the Graphics Card or Graphics Processing Unit (GPU), this is the part of your computer that produces the image you see on your screen. Since Chief Architect is a graphics intensive program, the graphics card is an extremely important part of the computer for day-to-day design work. There are a few types of Video Cards: integrated, workstation, and gaming. While some integrated (Intel) and workstation cards will work with the software, it may run slower since integrated (Intel) cards share computer resources from the CPU and RAM and workstation cards don’t perform well when doing 3D rendering in Chief. Gaming video cards do not share computer resources and are designed specifically for 3D rendering tasks used in Chief Architect. For best performance, we recommend a gaming class video card with 4GB+ or more of video memory on a Mac, and on a Windows PC NVIDIA’s GeForce RTX series or AMD

For me the answer was a 3070. When I had each of my machines built I had a choice of a full range of cards (except Ti which were not out then), first in the 2000s on the laptop and later the 3000s on the DT. I picked the xx70 for balance of performance, heat and noise. I also ran X13 on a laptop with a 6700k and GTX 980m w. 8GB. Been fine on all of them, just faster RTRT on the 3070 than the 2070s. I do enough RTRT to warrant jumping to the 3070 which is why I got the DT. I evaluated the time saved with Chiefs posted times for cards against actual times I had with the 2070s. A 3060 wasn't a sufficient jump for me though as Kbird notes plenty of folks on the forum are happy with theirs. Also for me, a 3080 or 90 didn't have the cost to time savings per year to be worth it while the heat and noise were higher than I wanted. Noise-I purposely was aiming for a (nearly) silent machine. The DT is right on the desk at ear height, 2 ft from my head. If there is nothing making any noise I can strain to hear a very slight barely perceptible low rumble all the time but never changes. There is no perceptible increase in noise when running RTRTs, often with 2 or 3 open. Temperature all around is always well within limits. (I have "cap live samples" checked, "use raytracing" unchecked in defaults turn on as needed, and set material defaults to show standard view instead of RT; seems to help? YMMV) Ti cards-From what I see a lot of the cost of Ti cards is an increase in VRAM. I've never seen any of my cards use more than 6GB of VRAM so not sold on the extra cost. Maybe the 3060Ti. Note that Dell shortens the GPUs on the AW machines which means that extra GPU cooling may be a good idea? FWIW I ran Dell Precision machines with Quadro cards for several years but switched shortly after I began using Chief to gaming machines; not looking back. 4000 series cards due in the fall look really interesting BUT the power consumption is way up. I haven't seen heat or noise yet and it appears they will benefit from a PCIE 5 MOBO for the power supply. Which may mean it might be best to just build a new machine, will wait and see, but likely staying where I am for a while. (don't scratch stuff that don't itch.)

Still have to clear the hinge body so I don't typically bother with those except for other reasons.

Note that you need more clearance on both sides for typical double door frameless cabinet unless you want to run into issues with the hinges. Also doors on frameless do not completely clear the inside of the sides the way Chief shows them. Attached library has 3 ROS set for proper clearances. ROs.calibz

A method that works in any view using an adjusted Rev-A-Shelf rollout. I have a bunch of other but for simplicity no need to build unless you really want to. This is for a single door cabinet offset more on the door side as is standard (I never put rollouts in double door cabinets, instead that width cabinet would be a 2drawer with an RO or 3 drawer) I don't bother to put the hardware for the offset either but certainly doable. The offset from the cabinet sides is achieved increasing the bounding box, then changing the X origin to offset to one side. TO get correct location within cabinet the Y origin is adjusted. I locked the depth so this is only for a 24" deep cabinet. You would need a left, a right and one centered with no X origin change for doubles. Place in library. IT is possible to NOT lock the depth OR to make special depths for more control.

As Ryan and Chop suggest you build it. This uses glass pony walls both top and bottom are glass walls.Place shower pan, place front glass wall, add barn door, change that to glass, drag wall down at top, drag wall up at bottom, set bottom glass pony wall to match top of door, raise bottom of door. Once you are happy with height of front wall drag side walls from the end of that so they match. You likely need to reverse the hinge side of the door to get it inside the shower. The corner brackets get floated in and moved to location. The hard part to get close to you picture is to hack the existing bonus sliding barn door hardware symbols to something close to what you show- OR build them from scratch. Note that both the track and hanger symbols need to be offset in the Y direction to end up inside the shower. The track also need to be offset in the X direction or it will be wrong. That part will require learning quite a bit about symbols, origin, stretch plane and such.

Needs to a drawer in CA. Use a trash as a drawerbox and use a door for the front.

I'm interested, sent PM.

Panel is a psolid, edge bead is a 3D molding line. Might consider searching for what I mentioned I don't generally make videos, just plans and info. I make all symbols completely within Chief. Digging into the plans is a way to learn how to deal with symbols overall instead of "how to do this one thing" ; at least that's how I learned so that's what I post. YMMV :)

Before converting to a symbol you need the panel and the frame to be using different materials. They can be copies of the same material with different names. FWIW that video is kind of old. Check over in symbols (or maybe in tips?) I've posted some plans for making cabinet doors-been a few over the years. IN general I make a center panel (wainscot panel) that has the framing bead on it. Convert that to a cabinet door symbol, then use a wall cabinet to make the door style. Then save that for later to make it EASY to change rail and stile widths, split to a double for tall cabinets, change the wainscot panel AND if you end up with a wood grain it will go in the proper direction on the rails and stiles. I just whipped up a quickie here that shows the sequence of making the door from a cabinet. Be sure to open ALL of the DBXs and ALL of the tabs in the symbols to understand what is going on. Wainscot panel symbol For the cabinet start with framed, 0" separation, set front to opening, delete the top and bottom separation and unCheck the wrench of the stiles so they are NOT set to default, no shelves. Then go around each side and back, select match front, then select custom face. Then go back and change the default separation to what you want-like 2". Go to the front, click the wrench for left and right stile so they are now default, add a top and bottom separation. Change the opening to side panel inset. Select a custom made wainscot panel., Check materials, convert to symbol, set stretch planes and check the offset. During conversion set each of the different materials to Plan Materials, USE default. Make a cabinet door.zip

It would be a good idea to select Copy and give it an appropriate name before deleting those layers. Otherwise ALL of the walls of that type will now not have drywall.

Use a color that matches roof with no real texture, rename it to OSB, edit surface and use the new OSB FWIW this has been around since the beginning of X13

After setting the reference display "save plan view" works for me.