robdyck

Looks good! 2 questions: which materials (and settings) for your grass and water?

Depends what you call great! A combination of slabs, p-solids drawn in plan and elevation views, moldings, 3d moldings, and so on. Here's a few shots of a 'zero-edge' pool I recently completed.

Good points. I'm assuming auto-frame would be off, and retain framing would be checked as desired. And the build for the new roofs would be done using the build framing tool for those planes only.

My first thought would be to replicate the roof planes to a different location, let's say 999" to the right, then build framing for the new roofs. Then select the subfascias, and replicate them 999" to the left. Then delete the unnecessary roof planes.

Hey Bob, nice video!

FWIW, I used laptops for several years. It became too slow so I switched to a gaming PC and I'll never go back to a laptop. I used HP with Nvidia GPU's. If you must have a laptop, only buy a gaming laptop! If you're using it for fulltime work, there's no such thing as too powerful.

Can't say I've ever used continuous draw mode...

Hey, I'm trying to figure it out too! And I think I figured it out...select an arrow or line, then select the end of the arrow segment while using ctrl alt, and it allows you to drag a curve.

It gives you continuous arrow segment drawing. Each click and drag continues an arrow polyline whereas without it, drawing an arrow gives a single segment. This would be handy in a detailing situation where the text might be positioned first, without any arrows, in order to simplify alignment. Then, segment arrows can be added. I'm not sure it saves any clicks or steps, but it is good to know! @Renerabbitt must have some situations where he finds it valuable. Maybe Rene will elaborate...

Hmm...I sense sarcasm! With Chief's stairs and railings, if you really want the 3d to be accurate, you'll need to build things yourself. The railing wall between the stairs will need to be manually shaped, with a manual cap or molding applied. Change that center wall from a railing to a normal wall, and shape the top to the desired height.

@GeneDavis Zip that sucker up and post the plan. You'll have answers in no time. How many trusses are in your model? I've experienced something similar but only with floor trusses, never roof trusses. I believe it was because there were too many for Chief. Tech Support had no answers.

deleted my post.

And now I can recreate the problem. Just needed to get closer to a wall intersection. I don't have the answer as to why, but on the surface it doesn't seem to be a problem, as you wouldn't want a window so close to the corner that it's partially obscured by the framed wall.

For basements, I handle these differently. I use 2 windows. The exterior window is modeled the way it will be built. For me that typically means a shallower frame, essentially a vinyl window without an added jamb. Then, I use a 2nd, interior window that has no sash and no glass, just a jamb-liner and casing. It does mean that my basement windows have the "not through" option checked. It's more work, but it's also more accurate for schedules, section details, and visualization. Another thing you could do is adjust your frame depth to 13" to allow for both walls. As for your windows not updating properly, I can't re-create it but I did notice your interior basement wall was inside out.

You may want to check the spelling of the name "Isaac" on your plan.

Depending on what you're priorities are for accuracy, in that same stair section view, you could add a 3d molding (that follows the top edge of the p-solid stringer) and you could apply a molding with a rounded edge to better represent a carpet wrapped stringer. It would soften the edge. Or that molding could be used as wood trim to cap the top of the stringer. Unnecessary for construction docs, of course.

try this one. A bunch of textures will be missing because of different file paths. House_and_garage.plan

zero kb is a bit too small. I'll try that again.

it ain't no thing.

Plan.zip

It looks to me like your file name should be 'house and garage'...just sayin!

you tried zipping it?

No problem Stephen. In order to draw the appropriate polyline solid, you'll need to take a section / elevation view through the stairs. You can then draw a p-solid using the p-solid tool and then size and shape it to be the stair stringer. A couple of pointers: -a psolid will 'be' on whatever surface you draw it on. You can move it in plan view, but it's best to draw it on the surface you want it on, like the drywall in this case. -make sure you're on the correct floor when you draw it. -a p-solid drawn in elevation view behaves differently than one drawn in plan view. A bit of practice will help you decide which to use and when. If you post a plan, I'll quickly draw one in for you and send it back. Then you'll be able to see what I've done. A bit easier than typing!

There's always a way. It just means manually placing a molding or p-solid to act as the nosing. Another glaring issue that requires a work-around would be that stringer sticking up past the upper floor surface. The solution is turn off the closed stringer and make your own using a p-solid. At least then, you can also control its thickness and the material for the stringer separate from the risers.