robdyck

I've been there as well, Doug. I pushed back as far as showing brackets in all views at least in a residential project (and luckily, they conceded). I manually place brackets and I show them in the stair section view only and I always include a 'stair section' drawing that is clipped; No structural detail in this section, stair info only. On commercial plans, I include a large scale plan view drawing for the stairs and that's what I'd do for a residential plan if / when I had to. I've used some of the library brackets which look close enough when shrunk to the correct size, but for metal handrail brackets that might be used on an exterior rail, I've made my own. Also made my own 'cat's paw' wood handrail brackets. Keep in mind that if you're actually providing a stair detail which includes hand / guard rail details, Chief's auto rail is too close to the wall for Canada's codes. I always draw my own rails whenever I need to include details to ensure my rail profile and placement is code compliant. And I find it faster to build the model accurately, and then just 'take pictures' whether it's a section view or a 3D detail. I find it easier to update my drawings (that way) when my clients make changes after the drawings are complete.

I'll use whichever tool Chief has that works the best for me to get real accuracy. If I'm drawing a custom tile shower and I choose to use a p-solid or molding or 3D molding etc, I'll also model in every construction layer, especially if I'm including a detail on the plans. Depending on who I'm drawing for, I find accurate illustrated details are more relevant than CAD details. You probably wouldn't need me to dimension something like a shower but illustrated can be helpful to you or your employees and trades. Example: A builder I work for likes 3 treated 2X4s's glued and screwed for a shower curb. I'll show that, as well as cement board, waterproofing membranes, thinset, tile and tile trims and I'll model it with layer setbacks so each layer is visible and labeled. The illustration above was modeled using Chief and it's typical of how I model (not draw) details.

I've got 8 of my own edge profiles just sitting there in "My Moldings" library! Time to dust them off.

Geez, of course. I opened up an older file and I have it set in those cabinet defaults. Not quite sure why I've removed it? I've got a few different cabinet style default sets saved and somehow my go-to set has evolved without a countertop edge. After a few years of that, I'd forgotten and thought that an edge would follow the cabinet box, and not the countertop. This is why it's good to talk about things.

I haven't decided yet, modern though. I've got a really modern home I'm completing and I'll probably try to grab one from the warehouse, edit it if needed, assign materials and lighting and then save it as a symbol and an arch block. Quick question on your PBR video: you had edges on your countertops; you did that manually correct? I'm still assuming we can't automatically add a countertop edge molding.

You can move a roof plan to any floor for editing. In your case, if you've built one roof plane on the main floor and one on the 2nd, pick one and move it up or down so you can easily connect them. They'll still be 2 roof planes.

Nice demo of the match properties tool! I'll be using that more often!

Hey Rene, thanks for sharing this light. I'm assuming that if a person imports a sketchup model of a light fixture, you'd need to add all the lighting data, correct? At any rate, you're probably aware of this, but check out Pure Edge Lighting on 3D Warehouse. Lots of choices as a starting point. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/by/pureedgelighting?nav=models

I agree Lew. Interestingly enough, our building code specifically states that windows shall be installed as per manuf. spec. and I've discussed with officials exactly what you just described. Why redo work that's already done, right? However, some building officials in some jurisdictions seem set on make work projects. And I happen to be in one of those. There are so many different methods to achieve airtightness and the choice of material and methods can have a trickle down effect to the window install as well as other items. So it's not just windows we're detailing but all junctions that pertain to air barrier systems, weather barrier systems, thermal barrier systems and the builders rely on our code and product knowledge to ensure that the systems coordinate, are code compliant and accommodate their preferred methods.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/e12451e5-6329-4569-b465-d76375442a63/Fireplace-Exterior-Wall-Vent

Another helpful idea is to build a template of grid lines (stacked vertically) for use in elevation and section views. Make it really clear in this template where each floor assembly is located by using a polyline with a transparent fill. Place this grid template on its own layer and copy and paste it into every saved section and elevation view for an easy visual reference.

If the window extends past the cladding, the indicators will show. In other words, if you can see the window, you can see the opening indicator. There are a few ways to get rid of them, but each way has a pro and con. If you don't like extra work, adjust the window's settings so it doesn't project beyond the cladding. This is the simplest that I know of but it may affect your realism in rendering. Depends on what matters most to you.

I made some Jeld-Wen Vinyl windows using Jedl-Wen's dwg files. The idea was to make my own symbols for more accurate display control in plan view as well as 3D. I had problems (probably due to lack of skill) when converting to a symbol to use as a window. In some jurisdictions, they are asking for accurate 3D window flashing and installation details that are project specific. Crazy, but true. This means that the glass need to be spaced correctly, inset correctly, head flashings, sill flashings, flexible flashings and so on all need to be shown. I might give the symbols another shot, although Chief has fixed one of my pet peeves from before: Exterior trim colors on windows used to show part way through to the inside no matter what setting you adjusted. That's taken care of! The picture below shows a cutaway taken from a complete window I made.

I hear you. And deal with the same kind of thing in different areas. Nice to see a solution was found. I'll be referring back to this.

Someone will show you how; but it's redundant. The schedule is there so they'll look at it. Adding more info to the label keeps trades and suppliers from referring to the schedule. Just a thought (maybe not one that's well formed).

Paul, je moet het zelf maken. Als ik zoiets nodig heb, heb ik een polylijn gebruikt. Maak het in hoogterekening. Hier is een voorbeeld: you'll need to make it yourself. When i've needed something like that, I've used a polyline solid. Make it in elevation view. Here's an example:

Looks good Melissa. A quick tip: when you're done with the drawing, select those point markers and turn them white and place them all the way to the back of the drawing order so they don't show up. Or, place them on a separate layer (if you don't like the idea of them being white) and turn that layer off when you've completed your dimensions. You can also create dimension grid lines (maybe gray and dashed) that you dimension to and you can keep them showing but display them behind your cabinets. There's lots of different ways to clean up those point markers and get the dimension leader lines to have the correct (and constant) gapping. Nice work though!

I was considering this until I saw the Orbea page like on your facebook page. If that's your MTB, that'd be a hurdle I couldn't overcome!

You'll need to do much better than that to get any bites.

Melissa, would you mind posting a screenshot of your end result?

Take a section view through the cabinets with the camera origin located just behind the doors (directly on the front of the cabinet box. Send it to Layout and use the drawing order tools to place it on top of the coordinating wall elevation. Crop the layout box as necessary. Make a copy of the layer set if you want different display options for the camera that shows shelving.

Make different layer sets for exterior elevations and building cross sections. Turn off EVERYTHING that doesn't need to show in that particular drawing.

There's too much turned on in each view. Use more drawings in your layout with more refined layer sets. Turn off terrain and all landscaping and all electrical for sections for starters. It will speed things up. This takes forever to generate a section view; like 3 minutes. And like Richard says, for all projects, but especially complex ones you need a trustworthy archiving system.

You need some help with layer and view management. Awesome design, but really bad plan management for a project this complex. This needs to be cleaned up or else you'll have more troubles.

2000' down and to the left. You'll need to establish reference points to move it all back into place.