robdyck

internet

Certainly the list of provided drawings varies greatly. For myself, in my main market, no MEP, HVAC drawings are required and none are provided. It's also rare for typical residential projects in my region to include interior elevation drawings. That's not to say our plans aren't detailed or thorough, just a different requirement of included drawings. That being said, I adjust my provided drawing list based on the jurisdiction and client needs. My fee schedule has been developed accordingly. As far as engineering, that varies based on project needs and your established relationship with the engineer. I prefer to provide the drawings for the engineer based on collaboration and communication with them. If the engineer wants to provide their own drawings, then my drawings are setup to be much less specific to avoid conflicting or redundant information. I had one project where the engineer provided their own drawings, yet mine needed to be very specific to communicate the structure to them. We ended up in a circle of constantly revising and updating drawings to match each others. It was an inefficient process to say the least! When calling out info that is subject to review by an engineer or would also be on a supplier's drawing, it's fairly straightforward to include notes indicating who the information is for and whose information will take precedence. Example; if I include a beam schedule where LVL beams will come from a supplier using engineering software, the schedule would include a note that the supplier's layout would take precedence.

No auto for that. You'll have to do it manually. If someone else knows how...I'd love to learn that tip as well!

If you have a fill type for most layers, after auto-detailing a section you can group select all those standard polylines and combine into one polyline, then fill as desired. You'll still need to make some shape adjustments. I just did a quick one, took me about 30 seconds.

Possible and even relatively quick, but not automatic.

Assuming there was, how hard would you push your tape measure into plush carpet? Keep it simple Bob, use the sub-floor elevation! IMO AFF should be used to reference other finish items.

At the junction to a house, yes. To separate the rail at a structural column, yes. To insert your own newel post, no.

Just the perpendicular is necessary. By dragging the perp. room divider, the railing will adjust automatically. They can be dimensioned if you'd like to get exact spacing. I use this where alumnium railing meets a house wall and I don't want it to connect, but have a newel about an inch from the wall. Or if I want my aluminum railing to have a small space on either side of a structural column, etc.

In the example below, I used a p-solid for the glass, and 6 standoffs. I made these before the Indital Library was available. 7 Pieces. Super easy.

It works for me. Very simply.

Space your newels so far apart that you don't have any. Use 2 room dividers to create the space where you want to place your newels. Use a separate railing in between the 2 room dividers that has no balusters.

I can't replicate that yet. Can you post the plan?

I usually use an invisible room divider that's 1/2" thick and is 1 layer of drywall, or the same material as my typical wall finish. If my room divider is perpendicular to the end of a partition, I make sure its a through wall. That puts drywall on the end of the partition. I rarely run into the interrupted baseboard this way. This isn't perfect for every scenario, but good for many. In the OP, I'd also use a doorway that's NOT in the schedule (if using one).

My first choice would be to: -create an L-shaped molding that matches the overhang profile (you'll need 2, an inside and outside corner) I used CA-36 and resized to 8x16. -convert that molding to a symbol (I used 'millwork') -adjust the stretch planes (this will probably take a bit of trial and error) -open the symbol, rotate about the y-axis to match your desired roof pitch (ie for 6:12 roof rotate negative 26.56 degrees) -place the symbol so the inside corner aligns with the outside corner of a roof plane -adjust the length at the eave in plan view by stretching / dragging -adjust the length at the gable in elevation view. You'll also need to adjust the height -copy in place and reflect about the ridge to place it opposite itself -to get the texture/pattern improved, I think you'll need to make the symbol out of 2 pieces, and then assign and edit the gable end material separately. - Untitled_13.wmv

@Cheryl_C_Crane This will give you another point of comparison. I messed around with a few things just so you could compare the time it takes to refresh. ccc.mp4

Might this be a bug ? No, it's not. The beam will create a pocket with gang-studs but the wall needs to be framed after the beam is installed. The post is a separate item, and not part of the wall framing. Very simple to adjust in the wall detail. Keep in mind that there's no way Chief is going to be able to get the framing exactly how you like it. There's too many variables, like regional methods/requirements and framer's preferences vary from one to another. Example, Chief will probably place a plate in the pocket below that beam, but most framers would run the gang-studs directly to the u/s of the beam. Another example, in some regions, framers would just install gang-studs regardless of the loads on the beam, whereas in other areas, the load would be analyzed and if it exceeds the gang-stud and bottom plate bearing capacity, an appropriate column would be spec'd. Now, if a beam load is large enough to require a steel column in the wall, how is Chief supposed to accurately place the right column? There's so many different types of steel columns and availability varies regionally.

Turn on shadows. Adjust sunlight. Boom!

It will work. The terrain still references a point. Just a very small amount of simple math. Post your plan or your topo data for more help.

Oh crap. I always use the bottom and the left! That's how I preferred it when framing. Measure, then mark, then 'x'. I dislike the idea of measuring, then marking, then backing up for the 'x'. And since we read left to right...why go backwards. There's lots of other builders here, I wonder what they prefer? And no, no way to specify it that I know of.

A custom line style might be the only way and it would be awkward. That's the only way I can think of, other than individual letters.

It's definitely subjective but the 'pop' comes from you. Personally, I like my elevations to look 'cartoonish', just like my renderings! I use color, so that really helps. I prefer notes and schedules for materials instead of text. I like subtle shadows, especially on the FRONT. I never use edge or pattern line defaults; always by layer and by material. Customized fonts, never 'arial' or whatever Chief's font is.

Thanks Ross! I appreciate that.

@RenerabbittThe espresso machine is plugged in?? Now you're taking it too far!! Or...not far enough; where's the crumbs on the floor and an open bag of bread on the counter? And there should be splash marks on that window behind the sink. Kidding of course. Nice work!

Not a perfect fix, but quick. Chief Architect Premier X11 2019-10-29 10-01-01.mp4