robdyck

zero kb is a bit too small. I'll try that again.

it ain't no thing.

Plan.zip

It looks to me like your file name should be 'house and garage'...just sayin!

you tried zipping it?

No problem Stephen. In order to draw the appropriate polyline solid, you'll need to take a section / elevation view through the stairs. You can then draw a p-solid using the p-solid tool and then size and shape it to be the stair stringer. A couple of pointers: -a psolid will 'be' on whatever surface you draw it on. You can move it in plan view, but it's best to draw it on the surface you want it on, like the drywall in this case. -make sure you're on the correct floor when you draw it. -a p-solid drawn in elevation view behaves differently than one drawn in plan view. A bit of practice will help you decide which to use and when. If you post a plan, I'll quickly draw one in for you and send it back. Then you'll be able to see what I've done. A bit easier than typing!

There's always a way. It just means manually placing a molding or p-solid to act as the nosing. Another glaring issue that requires a work-around would be that stringer sticking up past the upper floor surface. The solution is turn off the closed stringer and make your own using a p-solid. At least then, you can also control its thickness and the material for the stringer separate from the risers.

Just curious as to your solution for insulation with a 7.25" deep top chord? And your initial example showed a 20' plus span for the attic truss floor. Even for D-fir that's pushing it.

kinda weird that that works. good little trick to know!

Done!

As I suspected, it works nicely from the inside.

I often add keynotes to a wall detail but unfortunately, a note schedule doesn't display correctly in a wall detail. I assume it's because my wall detail is viewed from the exterior. Anyone notice this behavior?

I believe to get that gap to disappear, you'll need to ensure that the stairs are snapped to the framing layer of the floor above. Quick guess would be that your stairs are currently snapped to the drywall layer. Correction: the tread and nosing material will need to be the same as the carpet runner! Unfortunately, the nosing material can only be set by the stairs.

@PaulNDebbie If you post your plan you'll get better insight and feedback into the quality of your design and where it may or may not be lacking. Builders and permitting officials typically require properly scaled sets of plans. There's also usually specific drawing requirements that vary slightly from region to region. This would be fairly simple to review and identify if you post your plan.

This whole topic of modeled pizza (I blame @Cheryl_C_Crane) has got me thinking about things that are or could be worse. - a 3d modeled cabbage roll...gross. or maybe a text note schedule not displaying correctly in a wall detail that's viewed from the exterior. Honestly! So my question for which I need answers is: what's worse than 3d modeled pizza?!

Unless you have access to 2x39" lumber (kidding) that's probably not the best way to achieve whatever it is you'd like to accomplish. What is the purpose of the 39" deep space?

And maybe a microwave shelf in the cabinet above. Just to get it off the counter and makes way for a Keurig or a Ninja blender...

Any fully loaded? I had plain pepperoni last week.

No such thing. Object Information Panel You should post a screenshot of one of your notes with the dbx open. Or the plan. You'll get timely and accurate help!

You just need to examine which fields you're entering text into, and ensure those fields are included in your schedule.

You'd have to build it the exact same way a carpenter would on site: piece by piece. By joining moldings, 3d moldings, railings (walls) and stairs, the desired effect can be accomplished. The techniques used would vary a bit depending on the stair layout and configuration, but the nice thing about 6 floors is that you'd only need to build it once, then replicate it for each floor. @Designer1 Could you post your stair configuration? Pictures or plan file.

Kevin, I've a feeling you're not in AutoCAD anymore!

@CoolHandLuke There are a few options for this. A shelf ceiling set a 109 1/8" will work. Main floor walls between the 9' & 10' ceilings will need to be adjusted to 'ballon through ceiling above' or dragged up manually. You could also add a layer to the ceiling structure on the 9' side.

@dskogg Can you post a plan?

Any known solution? This problem affect more than just walls. In the screenshot below, the newel posts, the clipped bottom of the timber truss, and the gable wall are all affected. The same shot after opening and closing the 'adjust sunlight' dbx.