robdyck

To go back to a 2x6 top chord: open truss tr-2 dialog select 'Lock Truss Envelope..." change top chord back to 5 1/2" select 'Force Truss Rebuild"

It worked for me: changed the top chord to 3.5" select the fascia, single click extend object, click on tr-2

This is because you have a fence that is creating a Room and the rocks are set to be positioned relative to the finished floor elevation. Make all fences 'No Room Definition' Set all landscaping objects to be positioned relative to Terrain, not finished floor.

To fix your stairs, you'll need to delete the stairs you have and redraw the stairs from the deck edge while holding the Alt key.

Hey Levina, the best way to handle this is to keep all of the main floor at the default elevation of 0. Then lower the Foyer floor and other floors as needed. The simplest way to understand the elevations is to import the elevation drawings into Chief at the correct scale. Place the drawings so the main floor elevation is at 0" on the grid and the create your own 'storypole' using some cad lines, dimensions and markers to develop a clearer picture of the various elevations. This method will give you the guidance you need to adjust room elevations in plan view.

Yes, I knew what it could be, but the OP said they were looking for that symbol in the library and then found it. And, that somehow this pointed to a solution for future inquires. However there are at least 2 very different options for almost the same thing. If we were looking for Markers, then we could point folks in this direction: or this: If we wanted to find a Marker symbol from the Library, then we could point folks in this direction:

Make sure it is closed, then attach it.

Curious, what exactly did you find and where exactly did you find it? The phrase 'text options' occurs only once in the Help file under the Label Panel, Item #2.

In your mind, what is an "open roof truss"? As for building trusses, have you tried it? The first steps would be to check 'trusses' in the roof dialog, and then build the roof framing.

The file can not be open when you attach it.

Materials lists can be simple and complicated at the same time! Your issue could be as simple as a layer display issue or it could be something much more complex that would require digging into the actual plan file to trouble shoot. I understand not wanting to post the plan file, however that is asking folks on this forum to guess. This is where having a Chief consultant on stand-by is a valuable resource. A consultant can provide your business with timely, plan specific advice while your company and the information contained in your plan file is protected by your agreement with the consultant.

Not a good one! The above methods will work, but I have found it much simpler to place the footings manually. I have a footing (made from a slab) saved to my library that has all the correct properties and elevations set so that I can place it in the plan, center it on the bearing walls, and then stretch it as needed. This is also especially helpful when you need to show a break in the footing at doorways or other portions to accommodate plumbing, etc. Currently, you can't break an auto-footing at a doorway. The only benefit to the auto-footing is that it is automatically centered. I don't need to update mine...I don't place them until I'm completing the final plan set. Another nice feature, is that my saved footing has a macro that auto-generates the text notes and it can report the footing length (if I see the need to include that information). And because it's a slab, it still fills correctly in section view.

Not crude at all! Your Typar texture and Delta MS textures are better than mine!

I use Chief Architect. Almost all my details are 3d.

On rare occasions, I have used a roof truss! You can edit the polyline of a roof truss. This is all manual, so it's not something worth doing until the very final steps of your plan set, but it makes for a nice looking truss. Tip: Your floor trusses will look more realistic by adjusting the web spacing to somewhere between 48" and 55". Most floor trusses have a bottom chord span of about 48" and a vertical post to reduce the top chord span to about 24". Chief doesn't model floor trusses correctly, but they build nice when using a roof truss. Unfortunate...

You can do it; the simplest is a new marker type with the text style on the bottom set to text height of 0. In the example below, I just quickly edited my marker using a text style I named '0' with a character height of 0.

You 'Are' welcome!

@AstrigalHey! Just a tip; to get someone's attention you need to hit them up with an @ symbol...like I did with your handle.

Another method that's worth trying is to import that file as an 'image'. That will make it very easy to resize and place in plan view. Just like a plant image, it can be set to always face the camera. Quick tip: when doing this, keep in mind that an 'image' will receive shadows so the image object must be far enough away from any 3d object that might cast a shadow onto it. Another benefit of doing this, is that it allows you to still use the generated sky and sun which can provide better lighting than the backdrop!

That sounds like it might be as simple as a layer display issue. The best way to get specific help is to post your plan file. At the very least would you be able to post a screen shot of the entire view to help point out the problem?

You have a couple of reasonable options in my opinion, one of which you already alluded to. Create a room polyline around the exterior and use it as a CAD mask. I would place this cad mask in drawing order 37 in plan view so that it is behind Room Fill, in case I'm using that. To show the roof planes, I would use a reference layer so that the roof planes are under my floor plan. This may require an SVP and layer set for Roof Planes only. The other option is to fill all the rooms with a solid fill and move the roof planes to drawing order 37. This can have a ripple effect of screwing up other drwaing orders in your roof plan and section / elevation views. I use the first method. It's faster than typing this was!

Yes, I used an invisible wall (1/2" thick, drywall material) Umm, no, invisible walls wouldn't be the only way, but it might be the best option. There could be more to the story that I can't tell from the picture, you know? From what I can tell, I'd stick with using the same wall type for the concrete foundation and make it invisible. That should also give you decent wall connection control.