robdyck

I left this corner running into the post at angle because I didn't feel like modelling the whole darned thing. It would be a whole lot easier to extrude the rail if the model were built on Chief's supplied grid instead of way out in the boonies! Then the x,y,z coordinate would me much more intuitive!

Miters, bolts, counter-bores, glue, plugs, not necessarily in that order!

If this is what your after, it has to be built manually using every trick and method know to mankind. 3d molding for shoe beside stair 3d molding for handrail beside stair copy of stair converted to symbol for spindles manually adjusted wall polyline manually placed newels...all of them

@DH7777 These walls MUST be the SAME for the railing to connect. A slight difference in your pony wall elevation will disconnect them. IMO X12 doesn't really help here. Darren is using a pony wall and Chief won't allow us to control the shape of that pony wall. I think your best bet is: a 3d molding for the shoe and handrail Not a pony wall beside the stairs...instead manually adjust the wall's polyline (so you can clip the top) manually placed newels Create a section view from both sides of the staircase. Use CAD lines for reference to be parallel to your stairs and create your 3d moldings there. Quite quick once you've got the hang of it.

For that, I start with a single, End to End Dimension and just drag to each column center. Very easy then to add centerline markers if you wish. There's no real auto way to get columns dimensioned.

I appreciate the effort your putting into this Eric. However I can't help but wonder if Chief couldn't have found a more convoluted way to format numbers. Why the heck would a programmer leave more "programming" to the users for something as crucial as the appropriate display of numeric information? I don't think its reasonable that I should need to learn this, nor do I think its reasonable that I need to add to the label or OIP of every object just to get a chosen number style to display in either a label or a schedule. I feel a bit embarrassed to put out a schedule, let's say for beams; where all the dimensions are inches instead of feet-inches. I feel even more embarrassed that this Number Formatter is what Chief offered up for control of this. If I open up the schedule I've got this nice little box allowing me to choose my text style (love it)...and then I've got this other little box at the bottom called Number Style that's about as useful as a 3rd nipple. Every now and then I've got to give it a flick just to see if it does something new.....Nope! I'd suggest Chief add a true Number Style control box for each column included in a schedule, as well as replicating the text style control of layers with matching number style controls.

As Michael said, a Vector View with Plot Lines, Color Fill will probably deliver what your looking for. I'd suggest lowering the shadow intensity experiment with the use of Shading Contrast (technique options for Vector View). To reduce the perception of fuzziness, may I also suggest replacing that hairy font with something that's not afraid of a razor? Something sans serif should help reduce bleeding eyes when looking at that on a screen. Solid arrows will also improve the feel of the end result. Just suggestions...

In fact, I can't see anything at all! Kidding of course! Post an image showing the settings you currently use and the results...

To clarify Joe, there is no "Ground Elevation" in Chief. For terrain elevations there are: points lines splines regions breaks ...and Subfloor Height Above Terrain Perhaps when you say 'ground elevation' you are referring to one of the above terrain elevation tools? My point was simply this...You can initially model your terrain to match real world conditions without any regard for the building. Then, using "Subfloor Height Above Terrain", you can adjust the entire terrain up or down to your liking. Once it's close to your desired elevation, then its a good time to make the necessary adjustments to the elevations as it relates to the structure. It can also be handy to make a symbol of your modeled terrain and place it on its own layer as a point of reference. By contrast, if you have started to model your terrain, and somewhere along the way started modifying elevations based on the structure, it will get out of whack quickly. It's also helpful to create a hierarchy of interior lot elevation requirements to help with prioritizing the modification of the interior portions of the terrain. Often the grading percentage of the driveway to the street is the #1 requirement....

SOL...I don't have X10. A few notes: ensure your foundation walls are aligned with the main floor walls foundation walls will need to have "hang floor platform above on wall" checked in the Structure Tab. Main floor walls will need to be a pony wall with the lower wall matching the foundation walls, aligned at the "Main Layer Outside", and an elevation of 6" CAD editing will still need to be done in section view but the model will be correct. Otherwise, if you absolutely want the foundation wall to extend up 6" with out using a pony wall on the main floor, you'll need to manually adjust the top of the foundation wall and the bottom of the main floor wall.

All terrain elevation data is relative to the elevation of the TERRAIN PERIMETER. You can enter all terrain elevations using the correct geodetic data. You THEN adjust the elevation of the TERRAIN PERIMETER relative to the main floor. Just like surveying...up is down and down is up! That is to say that a larger positive number here (screenshot) will lower the terrain relative to the structure and a smaller, or negative number will raise the terrain.

11" is enough as long as the kids don't try to open them both at the same time!

And 11" away from the corner...a tidy inconspicuous bit of filler is all that's required.

No Problem. Every good framer knows that's how you derive the length of sub-fascia at bays. Here's an overview with cabinet boxes at the corners. Notice the doors overlap.

At every corner...that is 135 degrees

A good idea would be to give yourself some reference lines at 24" and 26" away from the drywall. In your example, you'd keep things centered, especially if there's a 135 degree corner at each end.

5:12 my friend. Reduce cabinets by 10" to meet at the frame, reduce by 10.5" to meet at the doors/drawers and reduce by at least 11" if you'd like the doors and drawers to open! For a bay wall like you've shown, a simpler method is to know the finished wall length, and subtract 12" at each 135degree corner.

@natmar2020Take a look at the adjustments. Centre dévelopement alimentaire pour présentation2.plan

I know. I just ain't downloading anything for that one file.

I can't open that file type. If you can post the plan file directly that'd be helpful.

Can you post the plan?

Feel free to contact me. I can certainly help you out in many areas.

@Designer1 The jpeg isn't gone, the file path just needs to be reset, however you can't edit Chief's original backdrop. What you can do is copy the backdrop and paste it to your own folder of your choosing in the library. Then simply relink the file path. C:\ProgramData\Chief Architect Premier X12\Referenced Files\CoreCatalogFiles.zip#zip:CoreCatalogFiles\Valley.jpg

I'll add a bit to what Chop said about the use of screw piles. In my project, pictured above, the house is situated relatively close to a lake and the ground is known to have a high water table. While not impossible, it is difficult to drill holes and pour concrete without the holes filling with water. The screw piles simply screw into the ground, and shafts lengths are added until the screw hits a specific torque setting as prescribed by the project engineer (often the screw pile manufacturer would have an engineer on staff as well). Assuming cost and availability aren't an issue they can also be a great option for deck piles and renovations as they create almost no damage to a finished landscape. Great for temporary structures that require a foundation, retaining walls that require diagonal anchors into the earth, and soil conditions that don't have the bearing capacity for traditional footings.

I could have made those though, just not as quickly! You can use a spiral stair for the screw, believe it or not.