robdyck

I hear what you're saying, and while I don't necessarily disagree, my opinion (for now) is that p-solids are so much faster than jumping through the multiple clicks of a dialog box. My favorite thing about a p-solid, is that in an elevation view, it will blend with the exterior finish layer and erase unwanted lines. of course, it does need to join accurately.

I would say, no, there isn't. P solids are the fastest, simplest, most stable way to handle this. I have the same condition all the time, and there are other ways, but they suck.

I just your video for Eric...I also get all caps when copying and pasting. No question here, I'm going to search a bit and see if I can find out why. EDIT: And there it is...in your edited post way up near the beginning. That was what I suspected.

it does.

Yes.

You mean 300 MB, right? Without seeing the plan, I can give you a few suggestions. Purge Cad blocks, and purge materials.

That's what I said...they will rebuild. You can delete the surfaces, then capture images. They will rebuild. More info. would be helpful Gene. I'm not aware of any layer settings that will turn off the upper wall layers and leave the lower wall.

There is no control for this. If you're creating an image, you can use the delete surface tool to remove the layers of the upper pony wall. It's not fun, and it will rebuild. The very best option I can think of would be to make a copy of the plan file (just for the purpose of this view only) and change the pony wall's upper wall definition so all materials are using the invisible material.

No.

You'll never win trying to get flush eaves to work correctly. It seems that the problem boxed eave in the back of the house doesn't work because there is a roof plane below it. No logic to that, that's just what I've noticed in my own experience. I must admit, I've taken a plan that I wanted to use flush eaves, and after crying and swearing, I just designed it with boxed eaves all around. The answer to consistent flush eaves is that you'll need to uncheck boxed eaves and make all the parts manually.

@MarkMc, what are your thoughts about placing items, like built-in ovens as stand-alone items, instead of inserting them into a cabinet? This is my preferred method, although I draw home plans, not kitchen plans. I prefer to keep the fixture or appliance on its own layer, as well as to have control over its label. I also prefer to see a cabinet with an opening instead of with an oven...because the cabinet doesn't actually come with an oven, does it?!

It's also fairly quick and simple to take a CAD section of an actual steel beam, make it into a solid, convert to a symbol and add it to a framing schedule, or any other type of schedule. Every time you do this, make a copy, say 8' long, and add it to your library for future use.

It's also odd that you don't have double joists around the perimeter of your stairwell.

Sorry Tom, my bad! I assumed you'd know that I meant to use material regions for the battens. Let us know how it turned out!

I think key frames is it. Otherwise, you'd need to stitch 2 videos together using a video editing app. or add the pause in an editor.

That's the beauty of it...you need to consider their budget. I have no constraints!

Material regions

For sure! It's easy to just toss out ideas from here, you know?!

294670193_SND1862TomandStacieDoolittle.plan

@stevenyhof I assume this design was led by toilet paper hoarding? Or perhaps the client is doubling down on the green smoothies for breakfast? What can I say, this made me chuckle! However if they need to strip down to use the can, then perhaps the shower heads need to be reoriented so the client has room to practice their ski-jumping form!

So I think I was right about the roof proportions being off. The hip roof was a 5:12 while everything else was 8:12...I changed it to 8:12. And the large gable was placed at a totally random dimension...I moved it to 6' back from the wall with 18x8 garage door. I'd even suggest going to 18x9 just to fill up that space a bit more.

A few simple thoughts: the hip roof on the right could extend further to reduce the height of the gable behind it. That proportion doesn't feel quite right. I'd add similar gable siding treatments to both gables. Some decoration at the forward gable will help reduce the visual impact of the larger gable Add a timber truss to the gable ends mounted behind the sub-fascia. increase the height of the garage door on the right by 12". If it's 7', try using 8'....if it's 8' try using 9'. Again the proportion is off a bit IMO. Colors...tans are drab and they don't help it look better.