robdyck

Then you're doing it wrong. The inner polyline will inherit the line style settings of the outer line.

have both polylines created. click on outer polyline. select Polyline Subtraction tool. (look for it click inner polyline

Yes. Just use a polyline with the invisible line style...should be the 6th choice from the top. It's hard to see....because its invisible.

Never use that POS. Make your own room divider wall, give it a single layer of 1/2" thickness. I have a few...example: one that has drywall as its layer, one that has opening (no material) as its layer. These will not revert to a different wall type and they are simple to control. Very helpful for connecting to the drywall layer of a typical interior wall.

I've created trusses for a project, for which I need to clearly communicate how the new trusses will interact with the existing roof. No problem with that, however, a new problem exists in X12. Parts of the truss polyline 'jumps' to a new location, slightly off of where it was created. Anyone else experienced this? I'll send it in to tech support. In the screenshot, the truss was created tight to the sheathing and fascia...

It ain't gonna happen, David! The only way to do that out of a framing member is to use a truss polyline and then edit the truss members in the truss detail.

@LevisL None of my business but you're pretty skinny on headroom...I've got the railing set to 1.95 m in this image.

Use different wall types for the different railings. Make a copy, name it so its easily recognizable and maybe change the fill pattern so they're easily distinguishable in plan view. That will take care of the connection issues.

Don't forget about the undo button after those!

Alt codes don't work, from google docs doesn't work, nothing seems to work, however you can use the transform/replicate tool to increase its size, but any change to the text within the text dialog box undoes the superscript format.

Keep in mind that if you have a structure layer for the floor joists in your deck room dbx, the deck may (will) auto-frame at some point and you'll lose your manual edits. I know I'll hear that Chief can't do that if auto-frame is off but I've experienced that way too many times (yes, when it's off). All it takes is to move a railing wall that defines the deck and it'll jump back to auto-frame. So if you're using the modeled framing for plan or section views...be careful.

I have a library of pier/footing combinations for regions of different frost depths, varying sizes for builder preferences and/or loads, and I've converted them to fixtures, set the elevation to terrain, set the layer, set the label, set the schedule parameters. Then, all I have to do is drop them onto the post centers and everything else is done, except for dimensions in plan view of course.

Not that I know of. But you can make them all the same height and depth relative to the terrain which is adequate for any drawing. For instance, in my region, cylindrical piers on footings must have the bottom at least 5'-0" below grade for frost coverage, and the top at least 6" above grade. So I end up with a 4'6" cylindrical pier on a 10" footing, set to the terrain as mentioned and they are always the right height...however the deck posts will not 'find' those foundation elements on their own.

If this were ever required, it could be (and would need to be) completely programmed. A user could specify the end point for the waste lines, and all the waste lines and vents could be programmed to find the most optimal path from each fixture.

Here's the plan with door. A pretty good starting point for 2 minutes of effort. To clean this thing up...convert to fixture...delete surfaces...convert to fixture. When complete, place the fixture onto the wall and either create a hole in the wall or use a blank doorway (no components) with a roundtop arch in the same location. Fix the inside.plan

3 components: 2 windows and a door all in the same location.

I do believe it would be a lengthy description! Start with a CAD drawing for guidance...copy the picture into a cad detail, resize the pic so the door slab is 8' tall, then trace over it with CAD tools. That will give you a great starting point. You can replicate the cad lines / shapes to convert them into solids or moldings in an elevation view.

It's definitely possible. Some components will need to be modeled using various items like solids, shapes, moldings, etc. But it can be done!

Not posting a plan...

@Kbird1 @StarHomeJustin It can be simpler than that. This goes in the header label. %header_count%-%nominal_size% %type_name% %name%

2D or 3D? Architectural or Structural? I can provide both types in 2D or 3D. PM me if you'd like to discuss your project.

The tiling isn't that big of a deal...I bet he'll be happy to do something unique and interesting. How's this for a shower door... MAAX Halo Sliding Shower Door.calibz

You're on fire today!

Ain't that the neatest trick! And you can marquee select the distribution path and add it to the library! LU210's are at the same height on almost every plan I do so this is very cool way to add hangers super fast.

Solids and maybe some moldings for that whole thing...I wouldn't waste my time with any library items unless you could find the full window already complete. All manual items will be faster than any of Chief's 'tools'. Although on 2nd thought...it can be fairly quick if you want it to be.. Ugly Box Window 1.plan