robdyck

see my previous posts. They're obviously wrong...I know that because I still remember framing my first roof like that when I was 16. The incorrect plans upset me off then too.

Or you can change it like this: This is how it was built.

you'll end up with this:

It's worth noting those roof types were often drawn wrong back in the good old days

What I'm hearing is that you don't know how to make that roof, right? You're probably forgetting about these 2 roof planes: It's not as hard as it looks. Just put 5 roof planes in the right spot and it'll all come together. Do the 2 that I highlighted last. Look where they start...make sure the fascia top is correct. Look where the ridge meets...they are 90 degrees from the main roof, just like a gable. Forgot to mention those were often drawn incorrectly back in the day.

delet delete the attic wall on the 2nd floor

It didn't even move on my computer. It should be on the first floor because there shouldn't even be a room up there on the 2nd floor. Changing the MAIN FLOOR walls to 'balloon through ceiling above' should automatically delete any attic walls above them. The attic walls that don't automatically delete can and should be removed manually.

plot lines, pdf:

All Live Views Screenshot of elevation view: from layout BEFORE printing: from the pdf: Clearly I'm not in control.

Interestingly enough, I can get some line weights to print really thin from a Live View, but not really thick. One more reason why I don't like them.

Well shoot, a couple of quick tests and it appears as though I'm wrong. So where does a printed Live View get its line weights from??

Sent you a PM.

You have a few options, but you might not like any of them! use a polyline solid on the doors to match the frosted wallcovering (this won't 'move' with the doors) make a door symbol out of solids that match the frosted wall covering. (this won't be simple to adjust the pattern vertically if you decide to adjust the frosted wall covering) I'd use option 1 until I know the design is finalized. Check out the attached plan. Sample glass partition.plan

I've dealt with it all different ways. Rarely need engineering in my region but when it is required I rarely hear back from them. Sometimes I look after providing it, sometimes the client does. Sometimes the eng. collaborates, other times, not so much. Sometimes the eng. does their own thing apart from me, sometimes they consult, review, then stamp. Definitely no discernible pattern or method.

Yup. Kevin really tucked that one in there!

I was wondering what the heck you were up to!

No Attic walls here. Main floor walls should Balloon through ceiling above.

Roof Return: your frieze won't work properly anyways. That's why I mentioned using a molding polyline. Then you can return it into the wall. It takes 10 times longer to try to do everything using the roof tools.

Make your frieze board thicker than the brick

That's right. To clarify I was referring to the valley portion of the roof plane. In Chief, you'd still want those connected. Even if you were to carry the lower roof plane through, you'd still need to model the framing manually. They're all wrong! A roof runs through it: roofs connected at valleys: a separate roof plane underneath with the surfaces removed:

Nothing wrong with this of course, but it will produce incorrect roof data...if that matters to the OP. Generally, you'd still want your valleys to connect as Chief would typically and then you'd modify the framing. Keep in mind that Chief can't produce a horizontal seat cut on a rafter. A BIG difference between modelling the 'roof' or the 'roof framing'! The former is fast, while the latter is laborious!

If you actually want it accurate, the molding details below the soffit will need to be modeled using molding polylines. Very simple...time consuming and difficult, but simple!

The line weights are indeed controlled by the layer set in a live view.

Cross Section Lines can be off in an Elevation View...I'm not sure they are even generated. They are really only functional in a section view AFAIK.

Here's a section view of your roof. Surface: Structure: Ceiling: @DzinEye definitely had good advice for an unvented roof. If you want the increased depth for aesthetics, I'd suggest a 14" I-joist and a sheathing layer that's appropriate for the metal roof panels. Obviously the cost of spray foam varies by region, but reducing the # of layers will lower the labor cost dramatically and the simpler the roof can be, the better it will perform.