robdyck

Lighting.

For the balconies on the first floor, change the floor structure to a single layer that's 12.625" thick...same material as above. 18th st floorplan2.plan

Open the wall definition of the railing and change the material to whatever you want it to be...just not framing.

I had my cabinet 1" away from the wall. If I use a filler, that allows me to have a side backsplash controlled by the filler, and to turn off the side backsplash on the cabinet. Seems like a bug to me as I've not noticed this in past versions. I will report it to Support.

Has anyone else experienced a back-splash being cut (by it thickness amount) at a window(s) because of the back-splash also being at the side of the cabinet? I typically use an 18-20" high backsplash and it always on the sides. If I remove the backsplash from the side, the gap disappears.

If there were any attic walls and they were left untouched, they would have No Room Definition. Those automatic attic walls that form part of your room could have "attic wall' unchecked as well.

It'd be great if you've got the time to post your results and a couple of points of how you achieved it. Have fun!

You have to drag the top down in any 3d view. The most precise control of that is gained in a section view where you can draw a cad line at the exact elevation and drag the wall down to that cad line. If you want to 'set' the top, tell the wall to be a solid railing wall.

Good luck dealing with the stair-to-retaining wall connection at the top of the stair using an actual 'wall'. Way simpler and more control to probably use a solid for the retaining walls. I don't like fighting with Chief's wall connections and polylines for a case like that, but who knows...sometimes you get lucky and it can work really well.

For sure, but think of all the bs that comes with a room at the exterior of the structure. So much easier to use a terrain hole, manually set stair height, 2 foundation walls, which I'd probably just use solids for anyhow to avoid dealing with wall connections and so I could control the shape easier and so I could have the footing extend beyond the length of the wall....just spitballing here.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/search/?q=sonos

This ↑↑↑

section / elevation view, drag the top of the wall polyline down to 6" above grade. I would not use a room because it is not a room. In your example, I'd only lower the concrete wall on the right...the wall on the left needs to be tucked under the deck IMO.

Also faster...hold "ctrl" while painting multiple objects to delay the change until you let go of "ctrl"

Group select the windows, then group select the materials to be changed. Faster. Also, in plan view...faster.

Good for you! You can place an architectural block in your library as well, and then you can explode that block if you'd like. You can also edit each component within the arch block by 'tabbing' your way through the selection process (often a bit easier in elevation view). Pros and cons to symbols vs arch blocks but in the example of those brick columns in your plan I prefer the arch block.

So what was the purpose of making that a symbol? I'd have used p-solids in that instance, placed on their own layer and left them as solids. If I had a group of objects (to create the corbelled caps), I'd have made an architectural block. Much easier to edit. Then no need for an unnecessary copy of the texture.

Global Symbol Mapping

It is because of the ceiling settings for the roof plane. Double click the roof plane to open and make sure that the roof planes are NOT using the room ceiling settings.

The lintel will have its own material as long as there is an actual molding profile specified. When no molding profile is chosen it uses the exterior trim material.

If you can't find a thatch roof pattern, you can create a pattern from the texture image in the material definition dialog.

A couple of reasons: Chief currently has a problem building all of those surfaces, especially if there's furniture in the plan, even though the surface count may not be excessive. You may have all the settings correct, and Chief will still randomly open up some of those ceiling connections. Double click the roof in that view, close it, and it will rebuild correctly. Roof planes and vaulted ceiling planes don't seem to like using the "Use Room Ceiling Finish" setting. It's a good idea to makes sure that all the ceiling layers are correct, for the roof, for the defaults, and for each room, but still this option needs to be unchecked.

You can make a decent texture from this

Take off the gutter. You can create a molding or distribution polyline that would nicely replicate the thatch overhang.

You're still missing the last 2 pieces. I'd post the plan but you'll feel soo good when you figure this out. I can't deprive you of that! I'm out now as well, have a great weekend!