dshall

I get that, however if I put a railing on top of a railing, and each railing is a little different, one of the railings will take precedence over the other and eliminate the first railing.

This is a great question. I would of thought if the walls/railing were defined as NO ROOM DEF, walls can stack on top of walls... not possible now if it ever was. I like to make my railings out of MOLDINGS, this way I can have 3 different rail styles on 3 different layers, and to be able to see the different options, all I need to do is turn layers on and off. I am not sure why non def walls cannot stack on top of each other, I thought it was possible at one time. BTW, I have had projects where I had a few different KITCHEN ISLAND options. I put each island on a different layer so I could toggle between layers. Very cool..... but apparently walls/railings will give us problems.

I agree.

It is z fighting... I do not know how to fix..... maybe paint the wall with the material..... do not use wall covering.... I am not a lot of help

Yes you do. It is so nice when the plan is posted, thank you. Sorry about the X8 thing. But you did get it solved, that is super.

See if this helps. I changed the main wall layer on one of the walls.... I really don't know what I did, but it looks better. cape plan 2.plan

To communicate...... as Alan L. says, " A picture is worth a thousand words".

I do not think so, it will print, however, you can always resize so it is essentially non existent.

I think he is talking plate height or the PH value or pH is a measure of how acidic/basic water is. The range goes from 0 - 14, with 7 being neutral. pHs of less than 7 indicate acidity, whereas a pH of greater than 7 indicates a base. pH is really a measure of the relative amount of free hydrogen and hydroxyl ions in the water. I think he is talking plate height.

I agree. Please keep it simple, not only for us but for you too. No nickel and dining. Raise the cost of the software or SSA. Not a good move CA.

Are you using X8? If so, give the upper cabinets a 50% fill. It's awesome.

Is there a way to set the DEFAULT ENERGY VALUES (SHGC & U-FACTOR) for mulled units? I can set the defaults for windows and for glass doors, however I do not see a setting for MULLED UNITS. Any ideas?

Absolutely agree. It is a perfect solution.

The Perry Method, I love it.

Nope, slab on level zero.

Ain't that funny, that is why I quit using auto foundations 10 years ago.

I did not get update. My version is the screen shot.

SEE PIC

I would never have someone else do my as built measures and as builts....... except for maybe my son.... it's not worth the aggravation.

Here is my solution. The roof that the "bad wall" sits, move it away from gable wall and back again. I think you will find it will be fixed. I cannot explain why.

Try this...... PREFERENCES>RESET OPTIONS<RESET SIDE WINDOWS

The more I think about it, I am sure it can be done. I think Scott demonstrated in his video how you might do it. It would take a series of POINT LIGHTS that you then need to adjust the CONE OF LIGHT. I have not done it, but I am sure it is possible. Anybody want to tackle this?

I doubt you can use the RGB TAPE LIGHT effectally....... and the reason i say that is because somebody will prove me wrong and you will then have your answer. I do not know how to do it.

That is one scenario. Here is another, you have a walkout basement on same level as a detached garage with a mono slab. If this is the scenario you will probably want to put the basement on level one, so the garage plan can be on level one whilst still having the MONO SLAB on level zero. As JavaTom says " It is really hard to add another floor below level 0 after the fact.", so keep that in mind. One more thing to keep in mind. If you build foundations manually, it does not matter what floor the basement is on. It will work on level 13 with the first floor on level 14 and the second floor on level 15. Learn how the program thinks and you should be able to achieve what you want. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages.

It does not happen very often, but when it does, I break the molding at the appropriate locations and resize. The beauty of it is you can add several moldings on the same line, adjust the thickness of material to say... get a 6" hi accent strip at countertop level, or different tiles on kitchen backsplash and the molding will turn corners and even you can recess them into the window jamb above the sinks, especially when the window above sink sits on counter. Not perfect, but it does lend itself to many options.