dshall

Yes it is Lew.......

Here is the question. How does CA know what face of the second floor wall needs to line up with what face of the first floor wall? The answer is..... drum roll please..... THE MAIN LAYER. Work on your main layer def and you should be able to get it to work. Again, main layers line up with main layers, figure out what the main layer is for each wall and where located and blah blah blah,

Okay, Jon, I hate to be a crabby pants, but I think you are wrong. In this vid I proved that if I put a non def railing on top of a non def railing, one of the railings disappears...... in this case it was your railing....... https://youtu.be/kq20hllpUuA

Jon, if it works for you, great. However I think you will find if you play with it a bit, it ain't too easy to use. Apparently Alaska may be having issues also. Look at my picks, the handrail does not met in corner very wall and also look at the skirt board.......

Take a look at this plan and let me know if you can stack the railings. I cannot. BBB RAILING OPTIONS 3 TOTAL.plan

I get that, however if I put a railing on top of a railing, and each railing is a little different, one of the railings will take precedence over the other and eliminate the first railing.

This is a great question. I would of thought if the walls/railing were defined as NO ROOM DEF, walls can stack on top of walls... not possible now if it ever was. I like to make my railings out of MOLDINGS, this way I can have 3 different rail styles on 3 different layers, and to be able to see the different options, all I need to do is turn layers on and off. I am not sure why non def walls cannot stack on top of each other, I thought it was possible at one time. BTW, I have had projects where I had a few different KITCHEN ISLAND options. I put each island on a different layer so I could toggle between layers. Very cool..... but apparently walls/railings will give us problems.

I agree.

It is z fighting... I do not know how to fix..... maybe paint the wall with the material..... do not use wall covering.... I am not a lot of help

Yes you do. It is so nice when the plan is posted, thank you. Sorry about the X8 thing. But you did get it solved, that is super.

See if this helps. I changed the main wall layer on one of the walls.... I really don't know what I did, but it looks better. cape plan 2.plan

To communicate...... as Alan L. says, " A picture is worth a thousand words".

I do not think so, it will print, however, you can always resize so it is essentially non existent.

I think he is talking plate height or the PH value or pH is a measure of how acidic/basic water is. The range goes from 0 - 14, with 7 being neutral. pHs of less than 7 indicate acidity, whereas a pH of greater than 7 indicates a base. pH is really a measure of the relative amount of free hydrogen and hydroxyl ions in the water. I think he is talking plate height.

I agree. Please keep it simple, not only for us but for you too. No nickel and dining. Raise the cost of the software or SSA. Not a good move CA.

Are you using X8? If so, give the upper cabinets a 50% fill. It's awesome.

Is there a way to set the DEFAULT ENERGY VALUES (SHGC & U-FACTOR) for mulled units? I can set the defaults for windows and for glass doors, however I do not see a setting for MULLED UNITS. Any ideas?

Absolutely agree. It is a perfect solution.

The Perry Method, I love it.

Nope, slab on level zero.

Ain't that funny, that is why I quit using auto foundations 10 years ago.

I did not get update. My version is the screen shot.

SEE PIC

I would never have someone else do my as built measures and as builts....... except for maybe my son.... it's not worth the aggravation.

Here is my solution. The roof that the "bad wall" sits, move it away from gable wall and back again. I think you will find it will be fixed. I cannot explain why.