dshall

Are you using X8? If so, give the upper cabinets a 50% fill. It's awesome.

Is there a way to set the DEFAULT ENERGY VALUES (SHGC & U-FACTOR) for mulled units? I can set the defaults for windows and for glass doors, however I do not see a setting for MULLED UNITS. Any ideas?

Absolutely agree. It is a perfect solution.

The Perry Method, I love it.

Nope, slab on level zero.

Ain't that funny, that is why I quit using auto foundations 10 years ago.

I did not get update. My version is the screen shot.

SEE PIC

I would never have someone else do my as built measures and as builts....... except for maybe my son.... it's not worth the aggravation.

Here is my solution. The roof that the "bad wall" sits, move it away from gable wall and back again. I think you will find it will be fixed. I cannot explain why.

Try this...... PREFERENCES>RESET OPTIONS<RESET SIDE WINDOWS

The more I think about it, I am sure it can be done. I think Scott demonstrated in his video how you might do it. It would take a series of POINT LIGHTS that you then need to adjust the CONE OF LIGHT. I have not done it, but I am sure it is possible. Anybody want to tackle this?

I doubt you can use the RGB TAPE LIGHT effectally....... and the reason i say that is because somebody will prove me wrong and you will then have your answer. I do not know how to do it.

That is one scenario. Here is another, you have a walkout basement on same level as a detached garage with a mono slab. If this is the scenario you will probably want to put the basement on level one, so the garage plan can be on level one whilst still having the MONO SLAB on level zero. As JavaTom says " It is really hard to add another floor below level 0 after the fact.", so keep that in mind. One more thing to keep in mind. If you build foundations manually, it does not matter what floor the basement is on. It will work on level 13 with the first floor on level 14 and the second floor on level 15. Learn how the program thinks and you should be able to achieve what you want. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages.

It does not happen very often, but when it does, I break the molding at the appropriate locations and resize. The beauty of it is you can add several moldings on the same line, adjust the thickness of material to say... get a 6" hi accent strip at countertop level, or different tiles on kitchen backsplash and the molding will turn corners and even you can recess them into the window jamb above the sinks, especially when the window above sink sits on counter. Not perfect, but it does lend itself to many options.

My solution has been to use a MOLDING drawn in plan with a defined thickness and height. Using a molding makes if very easy to wrap the material around edged of wall ends etc. And if you think about it, you will then get a THICKNESS OF TILE that can be seen in 3d which is how it will probably look in real life. I have almost never used the WALL MATERIAL OPTION for tile, I only use this for wallpaper or paint (because of the THINNESS of the material).

This is a great question. Suppose you added a VERY THIN PAINT LAYER? Would this work? No, I do not believe so because the paint at the vertical wall surface will not cover up the EDGE OF THE DRYWALL. Sorry, I do not have a good solution other than those already posted which are not perfect. I have learned to live with it.

I do not think the thumb drive needs to be reformatted. If so, set up a drop box folder, put the files in there and then you can access the files from either computer. I have done it that way for years. Try the thumb drive first, the worst thing that could happen is a cataclysmic event.

Very nice vid, thanks Derek and thanks Scott Harris, nice job Scott.

Yep, I keep thinking there is AN EASY SOLUTION, but there isn't. There are workarounds, but so what. We like things simple so we don't have to think as much.

This morning I could not get on forum... and I also COULD NOT START CA. Not being able to start CA could of been a problem, but I was able to go to a folder that contained a file, double click to open file and all was well. But I could not open the CA program first and then open file, I had to open file first..... worked out okay...... but I suppose I do understand Lew's point when he wants to have a hardware lock...... personally, I hoped I could not get on so I could go play golf.... therefore I will never own a hardware lock just in case I get the opportunity to play golf vs work.

Oh, so it is working for you..... you forgot to "I was missing the fact you needed to set the view to have the shadow." so you are good to go, super.

Did you check SHOW SHADOWS? See pic below. If you did post the plan. Here is a question.... if I don't want to show shadows, what would I do differently? I don't know. I am not sure what you are doing wrong. Post it real quick, I am curious to see if I can get the shadows to show.

It can be done, not sure if there is an easier program to use than CA. There are many people on this site that will probably show you how to do it. To clarify, I think you are looking for the "rope light" effect. To repeat, the best result I have seen was when a user used a series of lights turned on, he did not use the "emissive" method.

Well, I question whether this is easy, there have been threads regarding this, not sure if anybody has posted a model to clearly demonstrate the method. I doubt a newbie can figure this out using DJP's explanation, I barely understand the method he describes. I do not think the "emissive" method is the best way to do it. The best example i saw was when a user used a series of "point lights".