dshall

I am having the same problem. I cannot change the default post. roof beam and floor beam sizes. I think this is a bug, please report it.

Thanks Michael, but I could not find them when imported. Cn you put them in small plan, easier for me to look at them.

Rafters do not work with joist direction tool. Rafters always run perpendicular to slope. If you want to change the rafter direction, make the rafter spacing at 4.65 miles on center, and then draw the manual rafters. Not perfect, but should take only a minute or 2.

Use the joist direction tool.

David, would it be possible for you to post a small plan with an electric outlet in the island? If you were able to do this, it would end 10 years of frustration.

I too would appreciate if someone could post a small plan showing an electrical outlet in an island that looks good in plan view and in 3d view.

Hey Yusuf, can you post that plan? It looks like you did a real good job with the railings. I would like to study your plan.

I swear, he always comes up with these hidden gems.

agreed, good point, however, even if I hold railing back, it is difficult to make it look good.

okay, it is not Gavin's request, so now it is my request, why can't I build it so it looks good? Suppose I add a newel at the corner, will that help? Seriously, this is the kind of stuff the users have been complaining about for eons now when it comes to modeling stairs. If we can't make it look good, let's say so.

I hate to be a poo poo head, but there must be an easier way to organize the railing specs. It seems as if I spend an inordinate amount of time clicking boxes to try to figure out the railings..... there must be a more user friendly layout for this.... think Steve Jobs....

Here is the plan, maybe you can fix it. bbb gavin dennis stairs 1.plan

Mea culpa, I learn something new everyday, thank you, however, I am not sure we have been able to meet Gavin Dennis Gavin's req's. Maybe I should say, I can not do it.

Thanks Michael, nice, however, I can not make it look good with a landing configuration.

Nope, he wants the concrete to go up to the underside of floor sheathing with a sill plate. Please review his detail. It is a tough condition to model.

Obviously, but do you still get a top rail, a bottom rail and newels? Can you hold the bottom of the rail up 4"? Come on guys, Gavin Dennis Gavin wants a glass rail with newels and rails going over the end newel. If he can do it, please post a plan showing how he should go about it. If he can't do it, let's stop wasting time and explain a possible work around. I do not think he can do what he wants without the workaround.

To review, a glass railing with rail over newel.

I believe he wants a glass railing, your solution precludes him from using a glass railing.

The brick should not be load bearing. I do not think we could do that in our neck of the woods.

Michael, you deleted your post, you had a relevant post. I did experience the wall reverting to 4-1/2"thick phenomena when I was working on the DECK PLAN that someone was having issues with. It's not common, and I cannot explain why it happens, but I have seen the wall revert back to the 4-1/2" thickness. Anyway, i think you and I are on the same page, the OP should create his own 1/16" thick wall.

Very annoying. I would suggest you create A NEW WALL THAT IS 1/16" thick, one layer thick, material being OPENING NO MATERIAL, this will be your new "ROOM DIVIDER", I think you will find this works pretty good. Put it on it's own layer, turn the layer on, give the layer a thicker line weight, and this will then also serve as your room definer in plan view. I get it, the wall you are trying to use defaults to 4-1/2" thick, very annoying..... create a new wall type.

There is some merit to what Michael is saying.

I do not think Eric did a good job of helping you (he is usually great when it comes to solutions). This is relatively complicated if the section cut is important to you. The Great GW may put in his 2 cents. I have not tried this, so I could be totally off base. At the very least, it seems like you must build a PONY WALL to get the two thickness of concrete wall. The difficult part would be the additional concrete on the outside of wall to support the brick veneer. It seems like you would also need to be very particular in defining your wall definition including locating BUILD PLATFORM TO THIS EDGE definition. Sorry, not a lot of help, but maybe someone will take the time to figure this out for you. Maybe Eric will take another stab at it..... I bet if he spent a little time with it, he might come up with the solution for you.

I have never had this problem. If you close the view (which you have not saved), doesn't the camera go away? I am not sure what the problem is. Do you really have more than a couple of camera views open at one time? I do not think this is good practice to have more than a couple of camera views open because the more cameras you have open, the slower the program.'

Wall heights are defaulted