Alaskan_Son

Thank you Scott, that's kinda what I suspected. Just realized there's a simple solution to that problem though... Put those 2 walls on their own layer and set the line style to the blank line style in the necessary layer sets. That should probably solve that for a good handful of similar situations. EDIT: Just realized that this solution still doesn't totally solve the problem as it only works very well if all adjacent walls/ceilings have normal line settings or else the corners disappear. Also doesn't help the line drawn rendering style at all. So, it may work for a lot of situations but not all. P.S. Just a little tidbit I discovered recently...when you want to select the blank line style, just scroll all the way to the very bottom of the dropdown list. This will put the blank linestyle at the very top. Super quick way to get to it.

Good video Scott. Thank you. A couple quick questions and comments... 1. Could you possibly attach a sample of your plan? You only showed standard render views in your video and I'm curious about the specifics as well as what the vector views look like. I tried the roof cuts wall at bottom method before making my video but the problem I was having was all the extraneous lines (which is really what I was trying to address with the somewhat messy method I was using). 2. In my defense, I didn't actually use any p-solids, just modified wall definitions and I was only trying to help create cleaner interior renderings. I have to do a lot of interior detail renderings myself and those extraneous lines can really be a big deal. On a side note, the multiple walls method I utilized whether or not the best solution for this particular instance is really a useful technique for a lot of circumstances. I use it for custom windows, shadow boxes/niches, and other situations where wall connections otherwise cause those extra lines some of us really need to get rid of. And actually, P.S. it's more accurate in some situations where drywall and/or sheathing continues but the actual wall framing does not, which occurs in some of those roof cuts wall at bottom scenarios. Actually, for the most accurate model there's a good chance I might combine the 2 techniques. Anyway, I agree that the roof cuts wall method at bottom is probably the way to go...IF I can see evidence of some way it can be done without those extra lines.

Yes you can. Just use the triangle shaped edit handles located at either end of the stair section...

Good tips Joe. I would add that depending on the situation and desired accuracy a person can also just utilize a Wall Covering for item #2. As I'm sure you know, its a little less accurate but also a little quicker and easier, plus it doesn't have the potential issues at exterior corners.

Good points Jerry.

I prefer modelling things as close as possible to the way they will actually be constructed so I'd say 2 walls in most circumstances. Not sure I can give you a lot of reasons per se...just feels better to me and I think it also offers a little better control.

...if using the Material Painter you'll probably want to do so in either Room or Plan mode.

Post the plan for a quick answer, but my initial guesses would be... A. Your "Framing, Deck Framing" layer is turned off. B. You have "Automatically regenerate deck framing" unchecked in the deck room dbx. C. The structure settings for your deck are incorrect and there is no framing to display.

Just sent you a PM Johnny, feel free to give me a call.

That can't be true, my method works fine. I know it does. I use it all the time and I tested it on your plan too when I got back to the office. Maybe I'm missing what you're trying to accomplish?

A couple ways to deal with that that come to mind: 1. Remove the fill from the beam(s) or increase the transparancy. 2. (What I think is probably the better solution). Put the beam(s) back in the Default Group and then Move To Front Of Group (as opposed to just placing in the Front Group...2 different things). For anyone who doesn't know how, there are 2 ways to do that...

Hey Tim, I'm not sure I would be using wall breaks for what you're talking about; however, you should be able to accomplish what you're doing in at least a couple different ways that come to mind... Method 1: Place the 2 breaks wherever they land, select the wall section in the center, open it, click on the Wall Type tab, click Define, click Copy, rename if desired, click OK and then OK again. Now you should be able to resize that center section freely by dragging the longer wall section. You can resize the shorter section too but it will probably separate from the other wall when you do that. In other words, its better to push than to pull. Method 2: Place a short section of Room Divider at the location where you want the break. This will cause the break to snap to your room divider. I personally prefer the first method, when you make the extra wall type copy it keeps the wall from "healing" when you try to make any modifications.

You know what I use for a microphone? My iPhone along with a simple app called Megaphone. Works great.

I'm away from my computer right now, but off the top of my head, the first thing I think I might try would just be to place a break, select the little wall and change the wall type to a copy of the existing wall type. I'm sure there are other solutions but that one is usually pretty stable.

Which commands are you missing? EDIT: I looked it up and I think the one tool you're missing for that sequence is CAD Detail From View unless there are others that I missed. That's okay. You can still go through the same steps. You just won't have the snaps to work with and will have to do the necessary adjustments right in the elevation view. You'll just have to zoom in and visually try to get things really close... OR, you could possibly achieve the same thing by placing an elevation camera so it's cutting through the section rather than just looking at it. Doing that you can use the cross section lines to snap to instead of the CAD Detail.

For what it's worth, I have had zero problems recently using Firefox so it seems like something must've been changed/fixed during the last couple weeks. I've spent in inordinate amount of time on a couple posts recently too and they posted just fine.

You can be sure you're building in the same area by simply drawing a polyline box around the room location before deleting the walls and re-saving the plan. Either that or just remove, break, or re-define a single wall to remove the room definition.

Dan, I've been running into this problem on a regular basis using Safari. Have to clear my browser cookie data fairly often. Happened this morning so I know it's still an issue. Chieftalk is a bit of a hobby/addiction of mine though so I'm in and out quite a bit, usually closing the website every time I leave. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. One thing I do know though... I only seem to have the problem when using Safari and it only started happening sometime during the last couple months.

I think I'm with Kevin in the Move Roof Down camp.

A little bit of a hassle, but one thing you could do is use a doorway/pass through the size of your RO and then add a standard framed no room def wall resized in elevation to fit inside that pass through. Your door would be placed into the no room def wall.

Yep. Good tip Glenn. As with a lot of these wall connection issues, the solution is often in the smallest details of the operation, the order, the sequence, etc. Here's another take... If you use the right wall along with the right movement method it works fine... The more difficult problem in my mind is (as Chopper pointed out)...the outside layers in situations like that...

Justin, You're right, it took more than a couple minutes, but it's those extraneous lines that are the problem...at least in my mind...and addressing those was one of my main goals. Sure there are easier ways, but most of them don't look very good especially in vector views, and in the case of the plan you posted above, I would double check that if I was you because those settings are misbehaving too. Bottom line... I'd rather spend 5 or 10 minutes and have it look right than 2 or 3 minutes and have it look half-right and behave unstably. You're right about those height settings though for sure. Not sure what's going on there.

I think it depends on the needs of the specific plan, but seems like a perfectly valid method to me for some situations. Just limits some of your automated features a bit (flooring, moldings, wall coverings, wall mounted fixtures, etc.).

...and I agree with them.

Here's a quick video going over the steps above. I'm sure there are all sorts of other methods we could use (especially when structural accuracy is important), but for interior renderings this method is pretty easy. NOTE: I included some unnecessary steps but those steps lend themselves to a lot more potential and flexibility than some of the other solutions do.