Alaskan_Son

You bet. Glad you got it figured out : )

If you're applying your material to a contoured terrain you're going to have distortion problems. You may want to apply it to something flat.

Maybe check out this post in another thread... https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/9742-arrows-and-text-on-3d-views/#entry88394

You should probably post the plan but... I'm guessing the "Cannot find" item is sitting somewhere in your plan where the program can't tell where it belongs. Re: the rim joists, I'm guessing that maybe you created copies of a rim joist and so that's how they're reporting. And re: the names, I believe those are automatically created by Chief based on where they are created and I personally don't know any way of changing them other than clicking on that item in your material list and simply changing the name there.

Would be best if you could post the plan but... It looks like you're trying to snap to a roof plane baseline. I can't seem to set a dimensions directly to those either so there are a few options that come to mind: A. Dimensions from the edge of your roof plane to something else and then drag the other end back to your baseline. It should snap this time. You can MOVE a dimension TO a baseline, but for whatever reason it doesn't seem to pick up on it during initial dimension creation. I run into this same behavior on a number of other items as well. I've gotten used to it but I suppose maybe I should be reporting it. I probably will next time. B. Use Point To Point dimensions C. Draw CAD lines and dimension to those. D. Turn your wall layer on, dimension to those and then turn the layer back off. Hope that helps.

As far as I know, the only way to have your material list automatically generate what you're looking for is to manually place breaks in your plate material so that each piece of lumber is shorter than the longest material available in your Structural Member Reporting dbx. You could actually place the breaks exactly where you want them and place extra studs where you want them too and both your model and material list could be extra accurate but I think that's kinda crazy. I think its best to manually modify the material list instead and leave those plate breaks to be decided in the field. I think the bottom line is...Either manually modify the model or manually modify the material list.

BTW, reshaping the layout box and using a mask are not created equal and a mask has a lot of benefits over the prior. Most notably a mask allows placement of dimensions, notations, and/or CAD work (in plan) that extend beyond the border you create. I would still use CAD masks even if we had the ability to completely reshape a layout box...no question about it.

The one thing you CAN do to a layout box is fillet it (up to a full circle). Just switch to the fillet edit mode and grab/drag one of the corners to fillet all 4 corners. Other shapes must be done with a mask.

Can you maybe try watching the video on a different computer? It works fine for me and I know plenty of other people have been able to view it as well. In the meantime, I did post somewhat of an answer to your question over in that other thread. It's hard to give you a more acurate answer without being able to see exactly what you're doing. Can you maybe post the plan, or at the very least a screenshot showing what you're doing along with a description of what you're trying to achieve? Only thing I can think of off the top of my head is that you might need to select your mask and "Move to Front of Group" or even place in Front Drawing Group (Line Style tab). Also, as I mentioned in that other thread, you don't need to use a polyline solid. You just need to use a regular polyline with a solid FILL.

Try making the associated text box on page zero (or whatever page you're using as a template) a little bigger.

Both...but mostly RT.

There are a handful of options (if I'm guessing correctly as to what you're looking for). The first 4 that come to mind... 1. Build>Image>Create Image... 2. Build>Image>Create Billboard Image... 3. Apply the image as a texture to a properly sized p-solid, solid, face, etc. 4. Using a backdrop. The various steps and options during or after those methods would depend on exactly what you're looking for.

Sorry Park, I already left the office. Maybe someone else can help you out but if not I'll try to post something when I get back to office this evening.

The pony wall thing works for me and you can get all the detail pretty quickly by utilizing the Auto Detail tool...

I say this with a lot of personal and professional experience and expertise on the matter... I would strongly recommend against using a 30" microhood over a 36" range even with the special trim kit or decorative fillers. Those microwaves are typically terrible exhaust appliances as it is and your range hood should really be at least as wide as the appliance it is serving (ideally it should be even wider). So...you would then be using one of the cheapest and lowest quality exhaust fans you could buy and then undersizing it.

I use that method to get the Z height also. The Y value in an elevation view is equal to the absolute Z value.

Just use a regular dimension or temporary dimension... or snap the text box to the corner of your page (by grabbing the corner edit handle of your text box using your center mouse button), hit tab while dragging back toward where you want it...then type in the desired dimensions for movement.

Totally depends on the situation, length of stair run, whether or not there is additional support or reinforcement, etc. but the short answer is NO. 3" x 3" would remove the vast majority of the remaining structural portion of your average 2x12 stringer...might only leave 1" or so of material to support the stairs in many situations. Just bear in mind that your not really talking about notching a 2x12 (or whatever the stringers are cut from). Those 2x12s have already been substantially compromised by the triangular notches cut on the top...usually reducing the effective remaining member to around maybe 5" (if memory serves me correctly). So you're really talking about putting a 3" notch in a 5" piece of material.

Not currently possible. You'll need to have them export a different file type that you can import such as DWG, 3D DWG, 3DS, etc. No matter what you import though you're going to just essentially have a symbol or linework (depending on the file type) and you won't be able to manipulate the 3D model itself.

You can also right or left click one of these little icons to create a link that leads directly to the post and not just the thread...

Funny I was wondering the same thing.

I'm guessing you zoomed in with one of those cameras while you had Perspective Crop Mode toggled on. That's the only way I could recreate your problem.

It sounds like what you need to do is learn to use the Join Roof Planes tool. Also, just to clarify something. Perry was deleting FRAMING in his video. As I stated above, he actually had to turn off the FASCIA in the dbx.

Sometimes it has less to do with sharing knowledge and more to do with "sharing" boatloads of time and hard work. Half the work you do as a deagner is nothing more than "sharing" your knowledge, expertise, and advice. Do you provide all that free of charge and only bill for your actual drawing time?

There was no "answer". The OP needed someone to do the conversion for them. In other words, I think it was really a request for service and not an actual question.