Kbird1

It would be best to Ask over on Hometalk as Suite does not have the Features of Chief Architect and it's always a good idea to post the plan so people can have a look for you. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/ this might help http://homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00718/30/Home-Designer/Foundations/Modeling-a-Sloping-Terrain-for-a-Walk-out-Basement-.html Other Terrain KB Articles http://homedesigner.chiefarchitect.com/support/category/72/0/10/Home-Designer/Terrain/

Have to agree with the Other's ....Impressive house I got the same broken wall as Dennis...looks like the "Room" is trying to get inside the wall pulled the wall back and forward's a few times and it sorted itself out , but other than that all looks well. edit: on the main floor the thick arched walls at 50110 and 56110 ,are ever so misaligned , 1/4" ? that I see in the wall paper mostly at 50110.

I think most people are going to say ...post the Plan, you can't find it and you have the plan so playing the guessing game is essentially a waste of time for everyone. M.

I think P. has confused the issue by asking about Square Footage when he really is asking how to set up his Temp. dimensions , or maybe it's me that's confused again.... You may need to change your Dimension setting too as NCC pointed out, "In the wall type definitions, you can specify what layer the dimension attaches to" as exteriors walls usually dimension to the exterior of the framing not the inside of the wall/drywall

At those prices I'd put them on 16" OC ( 2 extra?) to help eliminate ripples etc especially in the drywall (if you have it) and put a stud under each one even with the double top plate , this will also allow for straighter walls , if going with Fiber cement Panels as you suggested I usually use a double stud at each sheet joint too to give better nailing at the edges. (sheets Vertical) M.

A bug I guess cos CA divides the height evenly in each section ,perhaps make the top curved part separate ? ie 3 rectangular windows with a arched transom above?

was wondering why it worked when I moved the stairs back to the deck wall it's why I don't usually turn invisible walls off ....I forget they are there....

if you want to keep cost down and still have head height , just go with a Truss roof , flat ceiling and use 9' or even 10' high walls , perhaps 10 if a Workshop for the extra storage /ducting etc. Might want to consider 8' high doors too instead of the usual 7' M.

you would need a 8"-10" Foundation wall above the Slab, since the slab should be 2 inches or so above the highest point of the Lane or Road You didn't .... its a bug I think as Perry said in old versions but you didn't change the bottom plate to 2x4 in the foundation defaults , do that and in the Build Framing DBX under Wall set the bottom plate no# to 0 (zero) , with the Bug you still should get the 1 show up.

post the plan so someone can look at it for you, it's always the best idea and far quicker

yep a bit Wacky , I was almost going to give in and simply redraw it but should be close enough now to finish up.

played around with your plan in 10 and fixed things up ,I think? but you'll need to check the specs as I don't know your real heights etc did you by chance place your garage doors and windows etc BEFORE you made it a Garage Room and built the foundation ? in older versions it is always good to build the walls>roof>foundation and get all the structure right ,then start Detailing....windows/doors/stairs etc. M.

I agree , 16" max centres and you may need a structural RidgeBoard ,15x3 or perhaps deeper, since you want to raise the Ceiling off the plates , Engineered trusses might get you there too and of course the Truss engineer will do the engineering for you.

Some weirdness going on in your plan , but the 2x6 double bottom plate is there as you spec'd it in the Foundation defaults (sill) instead of a 2x4 to go with the 2x4 walls. I see a concrete footing and wall in perspective view , but display options says there is no Foundation to display and in framing overview it is totally gone , you can make the floor slab show by checking the Floor surfaces display layer................ ok found it , you have Walls>Foundation Turned off in the Display options (along with the floor surface for the 3D view) your Foundation wall is only 4" wide , typically a 8" foundation wall is required, but I thought you said the Pour had to be Monolithic? do they mean a monolithic Slab on Grade (raft foundation) which doesn't usually require a Curb or do they still want a Curb? on the Slab as well.

if you change the Header Measurement on the Framing DBX for 2x12 to 95" both garage doors will get 2x12 , you can't simulate the 1/2"ply in between but you could make the Headers 1 3/4" each same as An LVL or Microlam Beam. Haven't looked at the plan yet.

check this KB , it's known as Z-fighting, search that on the forum and you will get a number of hits check the section on accommodating large terrains , set to 300 has helped me before I have seen it mentioned to make the Roofing material thicker as well , or changing the OSB/Ply to the same colour may help. http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00107/0/Troubleshooting-Why-Materials-Appear-to-Flicker-When-a-Camera-View-is-Rotated.html

I think what they are calling a ceiling tie is actually the Ceiling Joist , and in a garage one every second Rafter is probably fine since loads are low , however having seen your other post , with the vaulted Ceiling etc the minimum may not be sufficient since you are "weakening" the system by having the Ceiling at 10' on 8' high walls. 2x4 walls are fine , your beam is 2x 1 1/2 material and a layer of 1/2 ply ie 3/12 inches , stiffer the beam the better though for garage door motors pulling on it ,and I usually use double Cripples and Double studs to stiffen the door frame and give plenty of room for the garage door installer to attach his brackets. PS keep the concrete curb ( if you have one) back from the door opening so the installer can install his brackets properly. M.

it may have been possible to use the Road Tool and the Cul-de-sac Tool to make this , and then cut a hole in the Cul-de-sac too but I know Roads effect terrain different from Sidewalk too , not sure if you need Curbs or not either. M.

No sure why you are getting that message , usually if you keep the it inside the drywall you don't get it ..........post your plan if you have further issues so we can look at it as we will only be guessing otherwise. you may need to set a Framing reference line to get the Ceiling joists and Rafters to touch rather than intersect each other, however this roof will look different again if you plan to use Trusses and not Hand Cut it. not usually a good idea to have the Slab at grade , too much chance or water runoff running under the door and inside, typically the slab, here at least, slopes 3" front to back to force water/snow to drain to the door off wet cars etc too. (probably not the case there if they are insisting on a monolithic Pour ( ie poured all at once) as the slope would be more difficult to do.) What your Village calls a grade beam (common term is some areas) is the footing and would typically be 10" thick X 20" wide here M.

your garage must be wider than it is deep for the auto framing to put the ceiling joists that way , so you will need to force the direction with a Joist direction line (under framing icon), run side to side. one way to do the rest..... (took longer to write than do btw .....) Then in the Garage Room DBX , turn off the Ceiling and rebuild the Roof (and Framing if not Auto) Then Turn off Auto Roof Rebuild if on ? Then Open the Garage Room DBX again and Turn the ceiling back on and above that set the Height of the Rough Ceiling as desired ..eg 120" instead of 96. Rebuild the Framing again if not on Auto and you should be done. If you rebuild the Roof again for some reason , you need to do this again , so don't do it till the Roof is finalised. PS DBX is forum shorthand for Dialog Box

Perry , just a heads up , the Jumplists Mark mentioned work , but I know ,like me you use CCleaner and after running it this morning the Jumplists are all empty , so you might want to disable that in CCleaner too. M.

" I wish there were better ways to track where chief it putting certain materials so you could make sense of a take off. BOY...in an ideal world, you could click on a line of the material take-off and it would highlight those materials in the plan (either floor plan or even better 3d framing views). It is just hard to put too much confidence in the numbers you are getting, especially as the project grows in size. Anyone have any good tips they use.... Here are a few recent take-off sheets I have done with a mix of manual and auto calcs." +1 on those sentiments , I bought into Chief to make use of the ML as much as for the 3D etc but find , I don't / can't trust it so end up doing a manual takeoff anyway , it would be interesting to hear your thoughts on Planswift for Takeoffs and how Chief's ML compares to it on the same plan. thx, M.

Yep I noticed that , just thought you were unknowingly making your test files larger than needed with images imbedded in you Template plan.

think the other two were just cos I don't have the same bonus/manufacturer libs. installed. these two seem to be from different Clients/plans though.

not sure then , but I have never seen 2 Temp dims show up like in your plan either , one in Ft and one in inches ( ****edit see below) perhaps has something to do with what Annoset you are using and something is over-riding? if I switch to the Default Set,+using Active Defaults the Temp dim works as expected showing 18'5" EDIT: ahhhhh..... not sure why but in your orig. plan when I click on that wall the MANUAL dims show up (found them on the default set) , usually Temp Dims wont show if a manual dim is already there , deleting the two dims out of the default set view and going back to the E Remod Frame set allows the Temp dim to work as expected. ( could turn on manual dims in the e remod frame layerset too)