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  1. Hi All Just starting with Pro 2020 Drawn most of house with gable roof with gables at front and back. need to add 4 -season porch with "half gable" roof, not sure what correct name is, but it's perpendicular to other roof (see attached image). Can't figure out how to do it. I need to set the height of the porch walls (can;t figure that out either) and then need to root to intersect with the wall. Can anyone point me in the right direction? My plan is attached.Plan1.plan Thanks Mark
  2. Hi All Looking for a material like LP SmartSide Anyone know if there's anything similar available? Thanks mark
  3. Thanks Mickey Sounds OK, but I did manage to get a quote from a dropped gable (so I think I'm all set)
  4. Thanks. I agree about the notching. There's nothing in spec for the trusses I got quoted about notching, so i wouldn't do it and risk failing an inspection (even if structurally sound). When I added the trusses there was an option to drop the end for lookouts and it put the lookouts in (I'm using HDPro10). Is that what you were referring to, or something else missing?
  5. Thanks. I just got a quote from midwest manufacturing (Menards' supplier) I looked up Chicago span tables and they had 4/12 listed. They have a load factor (which is 1.0 for under 30-degrees) for snow load. Having dinner with an architect friend on Thursday and will ask him what local snow load requirement is. Max ridge height I can have is 15' and wanted 10' ceiling. If I have to, I could drop to 9' walls and 5/12 pitch. I'm also waiting on quote on scissor trusses, which would give me the ceiling height I want in the middle (without needing 10' walls) thanks again Mark
  6. Hi Guys Was looking at stock trusses (24' 4/12 24" OC). My local Menards carries these, but the end truss is same height as common trusses. They don't seem to have a stock dropped gable end (I know I could get one custom made). I was planning on at least a 1 foot overhang (maybe 2'). Is there a way to do this without notching the top chord (probably not a good idea ) or just nailing the fly rafter to the sheathing (i know some people do that, but I'm not sure it's a good idea). Only way I can imagine doing it (with stock trusses) is reducing height of end wall to give me the clearance for the lookouts and then build it up where required Any other suggestions Regards Mark
  7. Thanks for suggestions Alan I priced out lumber for hand cut rafters and roof trusses. Trusses were 40% cheaper, so re-did plan (attached) with them. Slab still looks like I'll need a monster truck to get in. Garage Slab and Trusses - pitch 4-12.plan
  8. Thanks Mick Priced it out with hand cut rafters and was about 40% more (in raw materials). Was thinking about going with 16" OC as I'll have a lot of wall storage and shelves. Good idea on double studs at sheet joints
  9. Thanks for tip Was just pricing out trusses for 24'x24' at Menards. Came out: 2 x End truss @ $76.49 10 x Common truss @ $51.49 Total - $663.47
  10. Thanks Joey More than happy to skip it and save on cash. But not sure how else to get siding 6" above grade (without a big gap :-))
  11. Thanks. Not sure how I ended up specing double bottom plate. I'll have to check with village once I close on property (few weeks). Village says following in it's requirements: 5" concrete slab on 4" gravel/stone base Monolithic pour with 10"x20" perimeter grade beam all four sides Siding 6" above grade, brick to be 4" above grade. I was hoping to have the foundation wall to meet requirement no 3 above. If I don't/can't then I've either got to make the slab 4 1/2-inches above grade with a single bottom plate, or 3" above grade with a double bottom plate, or am I mis-interpreting something (highly probable)