Kbird1

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Everything posted by Kbird1

  1. one of the Gurus' may have a answer but if there is no other option , you could stack one roof plan on top of the other perhaps... use the auto roof to get your pitch , and 1st four layers would be drywall, strapping(rafter), Sheathing (Rafter), Surface (3/4 sheathing) Then copy and paste in place a second roof plane and set up it's layers to finish the roof. though it would get a bit much to do a whole complicated Roof , so it is probably better to just set the roof up for the total thickness and in the Section Views , add extra lines as needed.
  2. yep I should of been clearer above ....that has always been the advice.... but I think these days there is WAY more to consider , several Electricians I know no longer do low voltage as they say it's like learning a whole new trade and not worth the hassle if the wire something wrong ,ie mistakes are expensive when you have to start removing drywall etc. M..
  3. Randy ....You will see once you have been here a while that Scott has a pretty dry sense of humour, so I knew he was just making his point his humourous way, ( he likes to joke around Friday's it seems ) but I do agree with him in that working with YOUR Plan makes things much faster , knowing your version makes a big difference too, we could ( and have) spend hours explaining something only to find a Poster is on the wrong Forum and can't use any of the methods explained , which is why I asked you to update your Profile Signature above. the how too: ***Go up to the top right of this page click on your User name, choose My Profile > hit green button edit my Profile and on left hand side Signature (4th item down) and add your Name. version etc as we all do.*** Now I know you have X7 , I can also say that you can manipulate the Gable I made above by selecting each side and changing the pitch and making the Eave height match the Porch roof plane eave height quite easily. eg 6/12 since you have X7, I or Curt could of just posted you plan back for you to inspect too Cruz5_MH.plan
  4. in the past it was never considered a good idea to run any low voltage wiring in the same space as your 110v Romex wiring due to possible "crosstalk" , whether stuff is better shield now I am unsure but I would consult an AV/Home Theatre technician rather than a Electrician , unless he is highly conversant with Low Voltage/Smart wiring too. M.
  5. nice work Rich , hopefully the symbols will follow do you have them without the kick on the bottom too ? --- dumping water on the ground next to the foundation is a no-no around here.
  6. Like Shane I am tone deaf .... so for your benefit I'm out
  7. Your Roof is at 4/12 not 3 /12 which wont work , your ceiling would be too low , so I switched it back to 3/12 and ,reset the Railing to default height and shortened it so it was just under the Roof and then extended the other Rail around the Corner so that part has standard height Rails. Here I used the Roof Over Window Tool to make the Gable ......change Rail to normal wall temporarily, (uncheck railing) and add window , (resize if needed to gable width ) hit the Gable over Window icon, turn off Auto Roof and then switch wall back to Railing again (window disappears with no wall but roof stays. My settings are in the attached Pics M.
  8. Amen to that.....I was just thinking I should do some real work , instead of Cruising the Forum it's why I asked for the Plan and to know the Version , for all we know he is using Home Designer Suite , which means he just can't do what we can do and he has no manual Roof plans whatsoever , so you have to use other Tricks to get there...
  9. You are right Curt , I don't really know what Para. wanted , if it is Cultured Stone it is likely set on extruded metal Lathe nailed to the Sheathing, the Plan was just so he could see how it should look etc , and give him an example of how the Cap Greg supplies works. I actually returned the Stone 1' around the Corner too as that is how I see it done a lot , though it always looks like you "Cheaped Out" doing things like that especially if you can see that Garage Wall from the Street.
  10. Post your latest plan Mountaineer. Be good if you fill in your Forum Profile Signature too with your version etc , as it may affect the answers and methods given to fix your issue.
  11. Can you hum a few Bars? Edit: so much for posting on the mobile site ,where is the other paragraph gone????
  12. Or if you are using the images for Marketing/Sales for the next 5 years, you might want to consider just hiring a 3D Pro like Jintu to do at least some of them , or one of the other 3D artists ( and it is an Art) on the Offering Services Forum.. And NO I don't know Jintu .... just seen his work.... http://www.jintudesigns.com/
  13. Hi Para. you need to setup your wall definitions just like they are really Built , your ponywall is only a 4" stone material , ie you are missing the drywall,2x6 stud, building paper , AirGap , and I'd think the Cultured stone would be about 2" not 4" thick. You may also need to alter the Platform and Foundation lines in the Wall Def. to make the Cross Section look right. However , I fixed it in the attached plan and added the Cap Greg kindly provided as well on one section to get you started.... Also your "flicker Issue" was not Z-Fighting on the Garage Door's it was because you have turned off the Interior Casing , which also causes issues with the Jamb , even though it is still spec'd to be there , one I fixed the other I didn't so you can look at it. I saved the camera view in plan so you can see how I was looking at things to adjust them. ParaFlex_Test_MH.plan
  14. Thanks Guys ,appreciate the extra info , all plans are usually done with my Template , so all Layersets, should be present especially since I usually do the Existing Drawing , then do a Save As and Name it Proposed , and then again to Final once that decision is made, so my Origin should be the same in all versions of the Plan for that Project. M.
  15. Normally if it can't "call home" to register it still opens though and gives a warning.
  16. you should be able to delete the Roof Framing and just rebuild it..... lesson learned ...don't do Dormer in elevation view yes normal dormers need a knee wall at 90° to the Dormer wall at the back when you place them AFAIK. M.
  17. I guess you drew them (placed) on the 1st floor if that's where they show ? , copy/paste>hold position to the Attic level and you should still get what you want , though they aren't cutting the roof hole properly on either level at present. I moved the middle one down , but I don't think Floating dormers will sit on a Wall ?, so you may need to do it manually if real important. I also noticed your stairs aren't aligned with the stairwell hole....
  18. Thx for the clarification Joe , that makes sense actually as Plans and Layouts are linked so of course they'd know.... M.
  19. maybe I misunderstand , I was referring to using two different Plans , in particular the Existing Plans (As-Builts) and the new Proposed Plans/Final Plans, but I guess I'd just need to be careful what Plan the Layout Box came from before Altering the Level it displayed per Levis's idea. M.
  20. You certainly tried EVERYTHING you could think of I work by the hour if you need a hand I didn't look inside to see if I ruined anything but the outside is mostly good now I think , you might want to look into using Auto Roofs more too and then use Manual planes when you need to and to fix issues CA can't , I fixed the Ceiling/roof in the front entry too. M. Lot 1 Blk 4 revD_MH.plan
  21. I guess Joe's method would work for 2-3 DIFFERENT plans open and sending them to one layout ? eg Existing/Proposed/etc. in which case Levis method doesn't work .... but maybe Scott's would ? M.
  22. Like Perry I don't use the Painter much , I use the Wall DBX to change the Material/colour there, as at least in the past I saw too many weird things happening ,but that maybe better these days and I just haven't noticed due to the way I now work...?
  23. When I 1st looked at it I thought it would work too ( the Contractor in me) from wall to old ridge (about 3deg.) but you end up with a weird side roof if you don't have the hip in there , but the choice would be the Owners I guess , since there is no budget to do it properly.
  24. Not with one Roof plane and not necessarily at 3°deg, but close to that ,certainly not pretty though. Executive Circle_R1.plan