Kbird1

In this case It looks like your windows don't have casing ,so the other setting may not help , and the Window separation is just for that ,between windows only eg when Mulling Units . But you can actually you can use the same trick , you use for Corner Glass Windows and that is to SLAM the window in the direction you want and it will go thru the framing and butt up to the end of the wall .... you might need to try it once or twice to get the hang of it but move the window in the opposite direction and then quickly move it back the other way dragging the window through the framing etc and it should bump up against the end of the wall, but don't let go of the mouse button too soon ,if you hold it too long the window will popover to the other side of the wall break , so it might take some practice.... but it works when I can't get the Ctrl Key to work as Curt suggested M.

That's the one Curt , thx for the Pic , I have this set in my Template Plan now...

Do you have the Ignore Casing resize option in Defaults>Plan .... off ? check the box if so... it may also be the framing (2X studs) and RO measurements which defaults to 1" perhaps?

default Hotkey is F11 for Bumping on/off but I set mine to BB , easier to reach

Nice tip Kevin, Thx.

The double swing never looked right to me , so while trying two doors with there frames 1/2 the width of the wall each I found I didn't need to get fancy CA melded them together no problem, and still let me have both doors. I think last time I might have just done a copy in place and reversed the swing side of the copy and changed the door type, but not at computer now to verify that. M.

isn't there a setting in the mulled window dbx , you uncheck/check for one large opening ...or not as needed.... , sorry can't check myself just now....

placing a 2nd door next to the existing Ext. door , then use the CTRL Key to drag the 2nd door over the Existing Door works, probably best to setup the 2nd Door's Specs in DBX 1st , as selection of each one will be harder after overlaying them. M.

The Main Arrow cursor uses the Window's settings as far as I know (shadows.size, colour etc) but the "Blue Cross Hair" can be turned off for all views or just some , the colour changed and also the width of the screen , ie set 50% and it doesn't go side to side (full window).

Thanks Bill , I thought it could probably be done from my quick playing around , just took a Master to prove it This is something CA should be able to let us do more easily by just allowing more layers in the current Roof DBX , I would of thought ,especially these days with all the different Roof systems available.

"Also your "flicker Issue" was not Z-Fighting on the Garage Door's it was because you have turned off the Interior Casing , which also causes issues with the Jamb , even though it is still spec'd to be there , one I fixed the other I didn't so you can look at it. " Just forgot to post the settings pic for your Flicker issue on the garage Door Terry , garage Door don't normally have it so I know why you turned it off but it seems CA in recent versions has an issue with showing the Jamb if the Interior casing is turned off or set to zero , setting to 1/16th x 1/16" and all is good , you might wan to mention it to TS , so they can fix the issue.

I was thinking they wanted these Gable End Brackets ? not what I call Knee Braces ( CA calls Corbels) but that maybe just local Terminology , but thanks for the Knee Brace

Certainly looks like you are getting the hang of it , it is a pity that this isn't considered by CA as important and there isn't a system to add drop points to the Auto Gutters , especially since that information has to be added to all Plans nowadays in a lot of areas, here all water goes to City Pipes or Gravel drainage pits well away from the house/foundation. I see way too many plans where no thought has gone into getting rid of the water , and you end up with DP at the Front Door or right outside a bedroom Window ,where you get to hear it dripping all winter.... PS isn't it time you got over your 70 characters per line Habit

I think I saw Scott (dshall) mention the 50ft trick in another post, about Rafters too, I'll see if I can find it, but wouldn't the "undefined space" not just be the Foam in the SIP sandwich? and be detailed as insulation?

I may have made the Corners out of two Verticals , overlapped , been a couple years since I did a Log Home Job. There is a Log Truss Library I saw in the 3D Library online too, which I haven't installed , so can't really advise on.

There are Brackets in the Millwork Library , and Corbels/knee braces etc too

by now you would think it was standard practice, there are just too many things (DBX's) to check ..... My, you are Really Optimistic Jon "X8 Beta should coincide with the UGM in September' I'll keep my fingers crossed that all anomalies within CA get fixed in X8".

one of the Gurus' may have a answer but if there is no other option , you could stack one roof plan on top of the other perhaps... use the auto roof to get your pitch , and 1st four layers would be drywall, strapping(rafter), Sheathing (Rafter), Surface (3/4 sheathing) Then copy and paste in place a second roof plane and set up it's layers to finish the roof. though it would get a bit much to do a whole complicated Roof , so it is probably better to just set the roof up for the total thickness and in the Section Views , add extra lines as needed.

yep I should of been clearer above ....that has always been the advice.... but I think these days there is WAY more to consider , several Electricians I know no longer do low voltage as they say it's like learning a whole new trade and not worth the hassle if the wire something wrong ,ie mistakes are expensive when you have to start removing drywall etc. M..

Randy ....You will see once you have been here a while that Scott has a pretty dry sense of humour, so I knew he was just making his point his humourous way, ( he likes to joke around Friday's it seems ) but I do agree with him in that working with YOUR Plan makes things much faster , knowing your version makes a big difference too, we could ( and have) spend hours explaining something only to find a Poster is on the wrong Forum and can't use any of the methods explained , which is why I asked you to update your Profile Signature above. the how too: ***Go up to the top right of this page click on your User name, choose My Profile > hit green button edit my Profile and on left hand side Signature (4th item down) and add your Name. version etc as we all do.*** Now I know you have X7 , I can also say that you can manipulate the Gable I made above by selecting each side and changing the pitch and making the Eave height match the Porch roof plane eave height quite easily. eg 6/12 since you have X7, I or Curt could of just posted you plan back for you to inspect too Cruz5_MH.plan

in the past it was never considered a good idea to run any low voltage wiring in the same space as your 110v Romex wiring due to possible "crosstalk" , whether stuff is better shield now I am unsure but I would consult an AV/Home Theatre technician rather than a Electrician , unless he is highly conversant with Low Voltage/Smart wiring too. M.

nice work Rich , hopefully the symbols will follow do you have them without the kick on the bottom too ? --- dumping water on the ground next to the foundation is a no-no around here.

Like Shane I am tone deaf .... so for your benefit I'm out

Your Roof is at 4/12 not 3 /12 which wont work , your ceiling would be too low , so I switched it back to 3/12 and ,reset the Railing to default height and shortened it so it was just under the Roof and then extended the other Rail around the Corner so that part has standard height Rails. Here I used the Roof Over Window Tool to make the Gable ......change Rail to normal wall temporarily, (uncheck railing) and add window , (resize if needed to gable width ) hit the Gable over Window icon, turn off Auto Roof and then switch wall back to Railing again (window disappears with no wall but roof stays. My settings are in the attached Pics M.

Amen to that.....I was just thinking I should do some real work , instead of Cruising the Forum it's why I asked for the Plan and to know the Version , for all we know he is using Home Designer Suite , which means he just can't do what we can do and he has no manual Roof plans whatsoever , so you have to use other Tricks to get there...