rgardner

The walls will go up to a roof. You need some type of roof to finish off the box. On the bottom have you tried pony wall settings with say a 12" and a 6" thick wall set to align at outside surface?

You will also notice when you do a clean install (which would be recommended from such a long time upgrade,) that chief has templates for you to start with including the .plan templates as well as several .layout templates to get you started.

Without the plan hard to tell exactly. I am assuming you tried exploding the dormer?

From your description I am still unclear of what you did. I understand what you want to see now. Just not sure how you came to have two textures on the same item. Did you put a molding on top of the sill? Someone else may understand what you have going on and be able to help after seeing this but I am still unsure. Maybe you can upload your .plan file (make sure you close chief before you upload it) to take a look at it and see how to fix it.

Picture of what you are needing and what you have may help. BTW Everyone would appreciate it if you could add your details to your signature line. We see you have x9 from your comments but many times information on your system hardware and software comes into play as well. You can add all that to your signature line as you see in mine below which will get you the most help possible when paired with descriptive terse questions.

In your locker @ Chiefarchitect.com where you get the download there is links for very detailed download and upgrade instructions.

To add another caution is that if you are trying for an accurate model and material list then the paint will affect that as it cannot tell that the brick was changed to siding, it's just a paint over it. Another issue that is very prevalent in less experienced users is when they don't pay attention to the setting for the spray can for component, object, room, floor, plan and will paint something then wonder why their cabinets look weird, or why their glass door is no longer glass, etc. Overall the concept should be that if the item is changing materials do it in the dbx. If you don't care about paint takeoffs and you are changing a door color in 3d from white to blue for example it won't change anything that matters for con docs or anything else so a spray can change can work fine to show the client. But if it is a totally different definition of materials do it in the dbx. But to keep in mind that once you have painted that item it will no longer be set on the default material so if you are trying to make a dynamic change to all the doors for example that one will not change.

Roof planes and skylights.

@Olysan PM sent

Did you try bringing it over from word?You don't need to paste into a text box. Just click on the plan file (I would recommend using a cad detail page if you are going to put it on your plan page or just right into your layout template if it will go on all jobs.) and Ctrl or Cmd. V or right click and paste.

So you are looking at adding a set of default notes. Best is to use the Text File for that. Or many will use word and copy and paste it into a text box.

It is not at least to me obvious what you are trying to create. Sounds like you want a note schedule which Chief will actually do automatically for you. Most likely if you explain (picture even better) what you are trying to do someone can help you understand how the tool in Chief Architect does it. Is it anything like one of these:

You do have a fair point there, to be 100% accurate he would need to cut holes at each post in the slab. I guess I was referring to the point where the advice was to pull the column/post up to sit on top of the slab to show the vector line for the transition where as he was embedding that post/column down to the footer as he mentioned.

In the interest of keeping your model accurate and thus not having to do custom cad details to make it look right I would consider changing to a slightly skewed color of the same item so that say your vertical concrete items are concrete 2 and your flat & horizontal is concrete 1.

Combination of hot keys, mice keys with the hot keys and in the MEP configuration custom place library keys tied to predefined electrical items in my user library. Makes very short work out of an electrical plan. I have come to enjoy doing the electrical sheets.

This has been discussed frequently and in quite depth in the forum. I would recommend doing a search for the positives and negatives of the two methods. Method 1: Daylight basement goes on floor 0 (footings and short stem walls on same level) Method 2: Daylight basement goes on floor 1 (footings and short stem walls on 0)

Ok, I opened your plan. Stop using the spray can! It should not be used to change your wall definitions. Open the wall dbx go to materials and set all of your finishes to Default (in library materials bottom left (to the right of the scroll menu) is use default material checkbox. On top of that you will need to fix your 2nd story and attic walls as they have been manually adjusted (open the dbx go to structures tab and check default wall top and bottom.) set that middle wall you have setup as interior 6.5 below just like the other one as well as combine with wall above... There are some other issues I have not explained that are not the same problem. But it has to do with your roof heights for that room. As well as some other items in other rooms as you can see in this pic.

The wall showing there is the attic wall above. My guess is the wall is backwards.

Didn't have time to open your file but my guess is that you manually adjusted that wall at some point? Try opening the wall dbx >Structures tab> select default wall top and bottom height radio buttons at top.

Actually the way you would do it would be adding on the main floor and has nothing to do with the upstairs. Roofs build over rooms, even invisible rooms with no floor...

Interesting. Personally I would still put it in the exterior layer of the wall definition and just change where it builds the platform to and dimensions to.

He answered you if you look at what he wrote. Eric is right it can be done with auto roof. I do 95% of my roofs with auto build. On this one even though I follow exactly how Eric is saying to do it for auto roofs the extra effort isn’t worth it for me as it’s such a simple manual over-ride I would just manually adjust it after my roof was good to go.

You have it set not to show in the wall definition: BTW your wall definitions are wrong. You need to make sure your exterior facade is on the exterior layer of the wall definition rather than your main layer. Unless you are planning on cantilevering your top floor over the non structural brick facade?

Manual or auto roofs? If manual probably because the roof plane is going past the wall face and cutting it off. If Auto most likely it is too close to the other roof plane and you will need to select the wall and change to roof cuts wall at bottom/if it continues as an interior wall below then it would need to be designated as what type of wall when cutting below instead.