CJSpud

And here's the link to all the videos: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/?utm_source=Chief+Architect+Premier+19.3.1.8+x64&utm_medium=software&utm_campaign=Resource%3A+videos#playlist-87

Here's the link: https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10151/creating-custom-objects-polyline-solid-hood-symbol.html?playlist=87

Go to the Chief Architect website and look around and see what is there. Tons of stuff that will take more time than you have if you were to watch/read it all. Use the search box and see what comes up.

Contact the company that did the survey and ask for the missing information. I've done that many times in the past.

Chief has a video for creating a custom cabinet over a range/hoodfan (I think) which you should look for a watch ... with an arched top very similar to your image.

I suggest you do some research on shed roofs. You can set the roof pitch for the lower edge in the wall's (back wall?) roof tab and then auto build the roof and see how it turns out. Make sure to set the side walls to gable walls or you'll get a hip roof combobulation. If your ceiling(s) are sloped you'll need to address that in the dbx and build the ceiling planes separately.

Post your plan so that someone else can see if the problem repeats itself on a different system. If it does, then it will be easier to find the problem and suggest a solution.

Ditto ... just delete and redo if needed.

Defaults > Dimensions > Auto Story Pole Dimensions > Inner/Outer Format - Units ... click on the down arrow to pick which unit type you want to use.

I like the first one just the way it is ... NICE. Edit: Or is that a photo .... the coats hanging look VERY real!

Are you talking about the "make room polyline" tool?

There's probably an easier way using snaps ... someone will chime in with a better answer than I provided, I am sure. I am not sure that your walls weren't in alignment ... if not, they were only a tiny bit (thousands of an inch) off. I just find that when you have different wall types joining at a corner, that sometimes a CAD line and a couple of measurements is a sure way to make sure the desired layers line up ... and it really only takes a minute or two to check. We all waste more time than that doing other crazy things with Chief. Does it really matter whether the mirror you use has a beveled edge or not in the plan? Just change the name of the material ... no one will know the difference. Regarding that corner ??? It seems to have something to do with the fact that your material region is cutting through the wall layers and being applied directly on the block wall while above the tile, the drywall and air gap overhang the top edge of the tile. Is that how/where (layer) the tile will be installed - (i.e., directly on the block wall surface (or do you need to add that 1/4" dimension to the backer board))? I will look a little more but have to get going on my own stuff shortly.

Not sure what you are doing with your tile material regions regarding that corner. I turned off "Display Main Layer" to see how your layers were lined up. Your material region(s) appear to be buried in the wall layers. Maybe that's the source of your problem?

To make sure your wall surfaces in the bathroom are exactly in the same plane, just draw a CAD line a few inches out (in the bathroom) from the wall and then dimension to the drywall surfaces on either side of the wall type changes. Then take the measurement for the thicker wall and copy it ... then paste into the other measurement for the framed wall. I would not use a material region for a mirror. Who on earth would build one that way. Why not just get a beveled edge (all glass) mirror from the library and resize as needed? Still looking into the corner issue.

You can probably get what you want from the library: Just copy/rename the glass material and edit the panel's properties as needed. All I did with this one is up the transparency. Mark's method gives you a lot of flexibility on the door design itself. I would find a manufacturer that makes what you need and then utilize whatever technique(s) to create a door that best resembles what will actually be purchased and installed.

Following up on the locked layer comments, "Cross Section Lines" is a locked layer by default. Could that be the layer that might be giving you the trouble?

Good question .... ????? I wonder why it is there. Maybe someone at Chief was playing around with the idea of creating piggy back trusses and never got there and this entry is a remnant of that effort? Maybe we need more coffee! Glenn probably knows.

Ditto to Perry's comment on David's tutorial ... EXCELLENT! Without seeing your plan, one can only guess as to what you have. Lots of things can go wrong if you haven't done things Chiefly. Attached is a simple plan which shows the attic gable filling in correctly where the wall jog is located. I just designated the three exterior walls as gables and let Chief auto build the roof. Check it out and have a play with it. Per Erik's comment, I too have had to draw in an attic gable wall occasionally ... just go to the attic level and draw in your attic wall as needed. GableRoof.plan

Tim: That sure looks like a WOW project for you. I was wondering if it was possible to get a little bit of separation from the front entry (porch) area from the large gable (porch) area such that you don't need to have a cricket built between the two roof planes. I was also wondering if the design wouldn't look better if the main gable was bumped out from the rest of the roof lines since it is the main focal point (other than maybe the turret on the left ... or the mass of the whole roof) ... perhaps 2' minimum or maybe even more. I was also wondering if a curved roof to mirror the main entry transom wouldn't look nice as opposed to having two gables side by side forming a 'V'? So, I had a little play of your model and this is what I came up with (without moving the entry porch over): I am not any good at doing curved roofs or ceilings ... I just change some of the settings until I got the entry porch roof to more or less match the curvature of the transom over the entry door. Just a thought. I am not a big fan of designs that have two gables S X S where crickets are needed for drainage.

Send the plan ... you'll have much better luck getting help.

You might be able to find what you need in the library: There are many styles to choose from. If you can't find what you need, Robert has shown you how to make one. Don't forget to add it to your user library so you can use it again if needed.

Michael was right ... make the structure tab setting changes and the gaps go away.

I haven't followed up on Michael's comments. In your 2nd image, you have a check in the box for the sill plate. Maybe unchecking it will help???

Here's where you'll find it: Just select all your foundation walls and zero the height/uncheck sill plate all at one time.

You need to make sure you change your defaults for your exterior walls to the recommendations by Michael and Eric. I am not sure which settings make the gap close but I had to do it for all three of your floors. For the Foundation walls, I first zeroed the sill plate height and then unchecked the display/build of the sill plate. Then I got the gaps to close up.