CJSpud

Eric: Thanks ... that works much better. Not sure why 3d moulding is messed up on the 3rd wall segment. I would think it would behave the same as the moulding PL. Any ideas why it doesn't?

I started with a 3d moulding polyline because I initially tried putting the stone and the cap on the wall as a 2-part 3d moulding polyline. After running into issues with the stone not showing when cutting out for windows (and doors), I realized a different approach was needed. So then I just switched to using pony walls to get the stone on the bottoms of the walls and kept using the 3d moulding polyline for the cap. Perhaps that wasn't so wise a move. Will a moulding line behave properly? I will test that.

Hi: I have been running into some unusual behavior when trying to place a 3D moulding across the front of a model. The front of the model has a jog in it. I want the 3D moulding to be placed on the two front walls as well as the jogged wall. I want the bottom of the moulding to be 36" above the floor 0 level and extruded to the outside. What I am running into is that the moulding is displaying correctly on the left (top) wall as well as on the jogged wall but for the right (top) wall, the moulding is at -36" elevation and is upside down with the outside facing inwards and the back side facing outwards. The way I drew the was I started it out away from the walls drawing from left to right, then down for the jog, then to the right again. All sections are connected as one 3D moulding polyline. The foundation hasn't been built so you can easily see how the problem segment has built. The moulding is a sloped profile for a cap over the stone. The plan is included as well as some images showing the problem. If anyone has any ideas what is going on and how to fix this issue, I would appreciate it. I wasn't able to get any satisfactory help from TS so, before sending it in, I thought I'd post it here first just in case others have run into this issue before. Thanks for looking into this. MoldingProblem_X12.plan

I would design it that way initially - I am one of those people who likes square and simple. But the customer will get what they want regardless of how I put it on the plans initially. If a customer showed me an image or sketch of a railing done the way you are showing, then that is the way I would design it. In the end, the customer is right .... and you're right to be doing what they want. If you'd mentioned that this was the look your client was after in your initial post, I wouldn't have even bothered posting my image. The image I showed is particularly useful if the owner wants to have some space for some storage behind an attic wall, which would obviously be perpendicular to the bumpout walls I showed. Attic walls can also be useful for placing furniture against ... depending on the steepness of the roof and how the owner wants to arrange furniture. It might not make much since to have attic walls in a loft if the structure is quite narrow to begin with. Out of curiosity I did an Internet search for loft railing images and found many examples of railings like you are working on and there were many like what I showed. Lots of the images didn't show the complete railing so it wasn't obvious as to how they were connected to the roof structure on either end. Enough said ... hope your project design is a big success for your clients.

Cheryl: Here's a link to a video that Steve Nestor did on making a cabinet door:

You can also use the "Make Room Polyline" tool to find out areas of individual rooms in a structure by selecting a room and then clicking on the tool in the edit tool bar. You can also click outside (but near) an outside wall to select the "room" of your entire model and it will give you the total "footprint" (including decks, porches and attached garages ... but not including roof overhangs. Of course you can edit these polylines' shape(s) by using the break line tool and generate any areas you so choose to. Just open the created polyline (PL) and read the area. I'm not much of a macro user but there are lots of things that can be done with macros regarding areas in a plan.

When I do a railing like that, i put in short walls on each end and terminate the railings against the ends of those walls. I think this is a more practical way to install those.

Gary: You're going to have to do a much better job at explaining exactly what it is you want to do. You might also explain what you have already tried doing. Sometimes adding an image or two is very helpful in explaining what you want. Comments/Questions: 1. You mention that you may want to use a brick pattern. There are all sorts of brick patterns that can be used and different brick sizes that can be used for those patterns. What specific style, specific pattern and specific size are you wanting to use? 2. DalTile has tons of different materials you can choose from, including many brick style tiles and brick patterns. Did you search through any of DalTile's folders to see if there isn't one that is a good fit for what you want to use rather than the one you did use, which is basically a 24" x 12" x 3/8" tile and the pattern isn't "offset" if that is what you want? 3. Can I assume you picked the Sprout P322 tile because you liked its color? Please provide more information about your intentions.

I was in error .... your answer is correct. Thank you so much. This was driving me crazy as I know I've experimented with different color settings in the past. Have a GREAT Thanksgiving.

David: I tried that but couldn't get the change to stick when bringing up a new TI view. Did you try to change the color and have the change stick with other views using TI?

I use the technical illustration option for 3D views of homes I design in my plan sets. I don't recall what Chief's default color setting is for this option but for me, the color is set to a bold blue color and I would like to change it to black or dark gray ... anything in that range ... but I definitely don't like the blue color I get for each view I take. I have looked everywhere I can think of in default settings and preferences and for the life of me, I cannot find where to change the default color. I can change it for any individual view I take, but for the next view I do, the color is back to blue again. Can someone please enlighten me as to where I can change the default blue color. I think this question would apply to the color settings for other rendering technique options as well. I did click on the reset to defaults but apparently, my default is the blue color as that is the color that always comes up. Thanks.

Or the Chief free trial version .... I think all the camera tools are available for file viewing (but I haven't checked!!!).

Mick/Glenn: Thanks for your replies. Barry: Thanks for sharing your hotkeys. Been a crazy spring and start of summer so totally spaced out responding back.

I just did a simple test with a window with one side shorter (angled top edge) and put a material region over it. No problem ... the whole window shows. Is it possible that you have your material region covering a standard wall and an attic wall. Still a problem if that's the case. Sounds like something that might have to be sent in to TS.

Glenn: That was what I was looking for ... although the other method worked OK. Not sure how I missed that but I did. Thanks.

Thanks Eric ... I got it to work this time. Didn't something wrong the first time when doing the box around the plan.

I tried that and couldn't get the edit tool bar to show up so I could reflect about object. I will try it again to see if I can get it to work.

Is there a way to flip a plan 180° (swap ends ... not rotate) and do it for all levels in one move? Thanks.

For Site Plans, I do a little math ahead of time (before sending to LO) so that I don't have to change the Site Plan scale after sending to LO the first time. For example, if my Site Plan is going to show a property that is 500' x 500' and I want to use about 12" x 12" of my site plan page for the Site Plan (I use Arch D sheet size typically), then I can see that I will probably want to use 1" = 50' for the Site Plan's scale. This helps avoid having things sent to LO show up bigger than the page itself and then having to change the scale. Just an idea to consider that might speed up the process for you.

Barry:' Not sure how to use that *.xml format ... gives me a bunch of number codes I am not sure what to do with. Never used .xml files before. Could you just post a blank plan with your hot keys or can you expand your image to something that covers all your hot keys that a not so techy user can understand? I like what you've shown in your image for hot keys.

I was thinking the same thing as Mick so I deleted two trusses on the 2nd floor roof that extended under the upper roof (just the trusses; not the roof planes themselves) before I tried what I did. Don't have time to mess with it now but sounds like there might be ways to get the job done.

Once you drag a half truss across to make a full truss, then you can multiple copy and retain the full truss envelope.

That is unusual. I can get the trusses to draw all the way across if I grab the end handle (center of roof) and drag it to the other eave. Don't have a clue why they're behaving that way. I would contact tech support if I were you and see what they say.

Perfect .... thanks for your help. Chief ... thanks for a nice tool.

Thanks Levis ... I will give that a stab. I just figured out how to change the name in the fixture schedule by disabling the macro on object information but still only applies to the fixture schedule. Your advice sounds much better.