Gawdzira

It would be nice to have Baldwin and Emtek door hardware.

The fastest way to clear this is to open the Task Manager and do a hard kill of the program.

I have a surface with Windows 8. I have often tried to open up a new session not realizing that there is already a session running due to the way that Windows 8 hides the running applications rather than clearly displaying them in the task bar like in version 7.

Keep in mind, in real film making there are walls called "wild walls". To wild a wall is to remove it so that you can get a good camera angle on the shot. If you really want to make useful video of an interior you may need to wild some walls to make the video suck less. Otherwise we are all making a less scary version of the Blair Witch Project with a Stedicam.

Are you using the walk thru path tool?

Frame rate will not change the playback speed. Frame rate is how many frames of video are shot per second. The default is at 15fps (frames per second) which makes for very choppy looking video. Television plays at 30fps which is a good frame rate to use for this type of low quality video. Film (before digital) was shot at 24fps.

Take a look at the attached image. I have set 8 keyframes that show up looking like cameras on the path. These are each aimable and you can adjust the time it takes between keyframes (speed after...). By adding more keyframes to your path and adjusting the time it takes for each to get to the next you will modify your speed of the camera. You can also set the height of the camera by changing floors that the camera is on. You can see that my path seems to stop and start again. At that point I jump to the second floor to get a different vantage point on the subject.

I did try nailing the brush to my hand but it kept rotating. I will try tomorrow with more nails.

I would upgrade to the 980 card. A quick comparison of the 2 cards shows a lot of benefit in the 980 for not much of a price change. Agree with the SSD size. Mine is full and I constantly have to cull out the garbage to keep it running well (120gb).

I just ordered this. Report coming soon. http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/109733/galaxg-freehand-ergomaster-pro-paint-brush-handle

I am so used to building on lots the size of a Midwest walk in closet that it is hard to imagine being able to afford a wall thicker than 5".

In answer to the other question, yes, it would be non standard in my experience to see the rough opening as the dimension indicator on the plan. This would be due to a change in window manufacturer in the bidding process could require a new set of R.O.'s. It is safer to give the direction to where the window goes and then allow for the minor adjustment. This is why windows are often dimensioned at the centers

Convert to the Imperial system.

I agree. This has been in the suggestions in the past. It should be there again, and again.

What are you sending to layout? The only things that can be sent at actual scale are vector view elevations and floor plans. The images that get sent to layout are resizable once in layout.

As far as your upgrading to x7 (or not) is concerned I have 2 things to say: 1. Fill transparency value 2. ALDO, the new layer dialogue box which makes it super easy and fast to either hide or lock out layers. Huge advantages

I just looked at the webinar videos available. It does not sound like your level of problems is something that would be covered in those videos. I plan on watching the terrain video next week and I will turn in some feedback on value.

And the award for the most vague post of the day goes to... Eh, it's early so stay tuned.

MD, glad that the light comments were not taken the wrong way. Good luck with your search.

Sounds like it would be faster to make custom muntins than write code for the double hung.

I use a pretty basic Kensington MO1129. Full sized mouse with the USB cable. I found the wireless to be too fickle. Nothing fancy in the settings. I don't even have the Kensington drivers. Mid range speed for the pointer speed seems to work for me. The mouse has 5 buttons but I don't use anything beyond left, right and the scroll wheel.

This comes up a lot when I am placing lights. I will draw a bunch of Cad lines for lighting locations. I try to snap to intersections but I only get the snap to "On Object" or on the line really close to the intersection. Is there a way to prioritize the snapping order so that the intersection will be the dominant snap if the intersection is close. Maybe my bump setting? I would like to not have to turn off the "On Object" but if that is the only way to make it happen it will have to become my workflow.

Continuous sheathing also makes the wall thickness consistent for window and door frame/casing build out

You can import the pdf to use as a background image and then make modifications graphically and mask out the image. But, with a house that size and some basic knowledge of CA you might be better off drawing the house in CA so you have a full useable 3d model.

1. Do not scale drawings. I still have this on my general notes. This is the most ignored note and is really a throw back to hand drawn plans and ammonia blue prints that would often stretch slightly. But still, if there is a dimension that is needed to build the project I put the dimension on the plan. The other (blank dimension zone) is the remainder. Besides, printing is often failed by the pdf printed with a "Fit" factor. I have a section on my title page with "Code Notes" that are fairly universal for California and this is where I add in the ridiculous notes required on the first plan check. I do divide out my Electrical notes on the electrical page and put specific plumbing notes on the floor plan page. I do a fair amount of redundant notes within the plan so even though I have stated it on the title page I point to it with a note on the area where the actual item is located. This is the case for things like shower enclosures, toilet clearances, dryer venting...