Gawdzira

Draw it in a different file and import it with automatic deck rebuild turned off.

Yes. I love it. I do a lot of printing and can get almost 6 months of use before refilling the tanks. I have had it for over almost 2 years. Blows away my last Brother printer. I have 8.5" in the top tray, 11x17 in the bottom and the back paper feed stays loaded with 12x18.

My example of "good for camera"

I make it look good for camera. If I am presenting colors images I try to get close by tweaking the color. A lot of times that is brining the color chip in to the scene and using the color dropper tool to adjust the texture. I often find I need to then darken it to get it look right. The other thing that I believe helps is to use the line technique overlay to add some squiggle to the image. That gives it a more 'artist rendition' sketch feel so people don't too locked into the actual color presented. I am not a high end renderer so I don't attempt the realism level that others are able to get to. There is too much time involved in getting the textures dialed in for my attention span and schedule.

Have you tweaked your monitor to be brighter than 50%? I think this is often the culprit.

As my professor said "Never Fudge, that starts with the letter F. Adjusting is preferred, starts with the letter A". Make it work for camera and then hand someone the color chip (if possible).

With the "Edit Area" tool you should be able to copy the project as a complete model into a new template plan which contains the Default Sets. You can also import Default Sets into your plan.

This is one of my projects if I ever have a moment when I can come up for air. I search the lighting folders for one of maybe 6 lights that I will like. I just need to distill the personal folders down to the items I will actually use and be able to ignore the rest.

Personally, I am not a fan of that hip roof with the severity of the shed roof. Just an idea, maybe unwelcome but on a Friday night all bets are off.

@VHampton Beautiful project.

As shown, building down with framing sounds like how I would approach it. If the glass goes all the way up to the eave then I would want the ceiling to be a continuous line out to the eave.

Give some thought to exterior doors and snow dumps. What looks like a slider at that corner will get buried in a snow dump. The snow storms in Tahoe tends to come in feet not inches. I just finished with a ski lease/winter rental there and one of the exterior doors was a constant challenge since it was exposed without an overhang (just a typical eave above). This is especially important on any doors that swing out.

Aye, Aye Matey. In other words, what Dermot is stating is that your original question amounts to Piracy. I am not saying that this is your intention but sharing the copy with two dongles is not permitted (except on the high seas, parrot optional).

With the codes in California adding so many trimmers and kings to larger spans, I think I might be putting a plan together that notes the number of trimmers and kings so this is not missed in the field. I keep a chart on the site as we start framing to get everyone up to speed. It is an easy thing to miss and then you have a short header cut. With the price of LVL today, that would be no good.

Awesome. Thanks Dustin.

If I wanted to take the color image and get a siding pattern with slightly randomized offsets like the line drawing, can Substance player make this happen? I am trying to get this sort of look: And trying to avoid this:

I don't think it has to do with your roofs. What is the room definition for your deck/balcony?

I am trying to make a single line custom muntin. It seems like I can only load in custom muntins when the cad lines cross each other. I have tried by making my CAD block with shift select and also by having two overlapping cad lines that I make a CAD block. No luck. Is this a bug or a feature?

Thanks Perry.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think the added light really kicked it up. Now to work out my light bleed

Maybe it is different for the exterior view you are showing, but, I am not able to get the transparent look through to the surfaces close behind the glass. This image is rtrt pbr. Using the otb tempered glass. The glass pieces below are different distances farther away. The bottom one is almost 2" away. Any methods to get that to not turn brown?

Is there a way to make this sort of design with the railing tool or should I just suck it up and model the darn thing?

The baseline height, in framers terms, would be the Stack Height. A vertical line drawn up from the top plate to the top of the rafter on the outside of the wall. In the image "HAP"

It means your toilet is too close to the wall. Actually, not really, but the toilet is too close to the wall. I hurt my elbow just looking at it.

1000 wds- my notes sheet- can be a layout sheet also my 11x17 layout