Gawdzira

Very dangerous solution. If I am not designing my drafting around the visible space available how would the computer know where to align text to not create visual overlap? But back to the original question, naming conventions for layers?

For your layer names, do you have something like: "Text, Site Plan" or "Site Plan, Text" I am thinking about a big change as I do a major cleanup of my workflow for X14. One of those would be to better refine layer searching. Currently I use the "Text,Site Plan" arrangement for my layers but I think that is flawed for quick searches. I have so many layers that start with "Text" that there is a time suck in scrolling down to find the one I want. If, with Aldo, I search for "Site" it will only return about 5-10 layers. How do you name your layers?

I have not put it to the test but x14 has a cut list for framing members.

The big problem is this, when I click the associate plan icon and open the dbx, it shows the correct file but if I double click the layout box it goes to the wrong file "temp".

Here is the scenario that gets me in trouble. 1. I have a layout open and plan file associated "Golden_Toilet V7a" 2. I copy Golden_Toilet V7a and name is "Golden_Toilet V7aTemp for cleaning" 3. Then I double click to open an elevation through my layout which is associated with "Golden_Toilet V7a" but it opens the recent save as version "Golden_Toilet V7aTemp for cleaning" And now I am cleaning the wrong toilet. Heck, I didn't even want to clean the toilet, I was just trying to add a new roll of paper (actually it was a note regarding a crawl space access door but that is a different story). This is in version x13 before the latest patch. Does this work better in x14? I will be there soon.

Did you select this wall you want to balloon and check this button?

I can't tell if that is a shower or a piano. Either way, I think it is going to be difficult to use either inside of a base cabinet. Maybe a pantry cabinet?

Reboot? This is not something I have seen before.

Rename/name the file and retry.

I would do both with polyline solids. Export the door as a symbol and then build the rest of the glazing around it to make the whole unit a symbol and import. The trusses would also be done with poly solids. I would make the trusses as individual parts rather than subtraction to make the texture mapping easier.

Draw it in a different file and import it with automatic deck rebuild turned off.

Yes. I love it. I do a lot of printing and can get almost 6 months of use before refilling the tanks. I have had it for over almost 2 years. Blows away my last Brother printer. I have 8.5" in the top tray, 11x17 in the bottom and the back paper feed stays loaded with 12x18.

My example of "good for camera"

I make it look good for camera. If I am presenting colors images I try to get close by tweaking the color. A lot of times that is brining the color chip in to the scene and using the color dropper tool to adjust the texture. I often find I need to then darken it to get it look right. The other thing that I believe helps is to use the line technique overlay to add some squiggle to the image. That gives it a more 'artist rendition' sketch feel so people don't too locked into the actual color presented. I am not a high end renderer so I don't attempt the realism level that others are able to get to. There is too much time involved in getting the textures dialed in for my attention span and schedule.

Have you tweaked your monitor to be brighter than 50%? I think this is often the culprit.

As my professor said "Never Fudge, that starts with the letter F. Adjusting is preferred, starts with the letter A". Make it work for camera and then hand someone the color chip (if possible).

With the "Edit Area" tool you should be able to copy the project as a complete model into a new template plan which contains the Default Sets. You can also import Default Sets into your plan.

This is one of my projects if I ever have a moment when I can come up for air. I search the lighting folders for one of maybe 6 lights that I will like. I just need to distill the personal folders down to the items I will actually use and be able to ignore the rest.

Personally, I am not a fan of that hip roof with the severity of the shed roof. Just an idea, maybe unwelcome but on a Friday night all bets are off.

@VHampton Beautiful project.

As shown, building down with framing sounds like how I would approach it. If the glass goes all the way up to the eave then I would want the ceiling to be a continuous line out to the eave.

Give some thought to exterior doors and snow dumps. What looks like a slider at that corner will get buried in a snow dump. The snow storms in Tahoe tends to come in feet not inches. I just finished with a ski lease/winter rental there and one of the exterior doors was a constant challenge since it was exposed without an overhang (just a typical eave above). This is especially important on any doors that swing out.

Aye, Aye Matey. In other words, what Dermot is stating is that your original question amounts to Piracy. I am not saying that this is your intention but sharing the copy with two dongles is not permitted (except on the high seas, parrot optional).

With the codes in California adding so many trimmers and kings to larger spans, I think I might be putting a plan together that notes the number of trimmers and kings so this is not missed in the field. I keep a chart on the site as we start framing to get everyone up to speed. It is an easy thing to miss and then you have a short header cut. With the price of LVL today, that would be no good.

Awesome. Thanks Dustin.