StephenGreene

that's what i'm doing. i started one plan in X13 and ended up trashing that and going back 12.

open the dbx for the porch and under structure, lower the deck to whatever you need.

it IS a giant PITA for the framers. i never do this and though there may be, i can't imagine a situation where one might need too. many years ago, we built numerous projects designed by, ironically, an architect from Alabama who always dimensioned from the brick. it must be something they teach at Auburn.

my renders in X12 are FAR better than X13. and this is using the same camera with the same settings in the same plan. and they still look awful in X13. i've submitted this to support and they have no idea. so...i'm still using X12.

same here, so i'm using X12. very frustrating.

Two down votes for that?? LOLOL.......

go to attic level and drag the wall (with red arrow) down and around. it was also misaligned with the wall below so you might want to fix that first.

i upgraded to Monterey and X13 almost simultaneously. i really had no issues other than the renders in X13 looked like crap, so.....i just use X12.

uncheck the following boxes in the DBX of the particular roof plane you want exposed.

like this? shelf ceiling over the small room. railing along outside wall.

double click the room, then change ceiling height under Structure.

yes.... and i just recently renewed my SSA. now i wish i had saved my money.

i'm pretty sure M1 is NOT supported by X13.

invisible walls turned off in camera view??

i attached a plan that has what you want but i'm not sure you can open it since it was done in X12. there were a few things that i did: realigned the upstairs wall on the right with the downstairs wall, eliminated the wall on the backside (inside of the bay window), eliminated the bay window wall to the right and then redrew the far right wall at an angle which allowed the corner to build correctly, moved the porch roof up to second floor and worked it around the bay window (it was cutting into that space), turned off the auto roof return on second floor and redrew it manually, manually drew in roof returns on front of dormer, manually drew in attic walls above bay window, pulled up bay window walls a couple inches to close gap with attic walls above bay window. Maybe this will help. 296087595_2ndsharpehouse.plan

post the plan and someone will take a look.

as i stated before, we always used centers and for the very reason you mentioned -there is no question as to where the wall goes because it goes in the center. i once hired a framer from Georgia that preferred edges and his terminology was "set ahead" or "set back" when noting a measurement to the edge of a wall.

this must be a local preference. i framed and built for 30 years and preferred the dimensions to the centers. in fact, every builder and/or framer i knew preferred the same.

use Open Below from the room dialogue to create the open space above your living room. i created a second floor and created walls for your dormer. You may need to make your roof a bit steeper to get the look you want. i didn't put a roof on this. Larsonem:Dugan.plan

yeah, they can act very weird sometimes.

Rob, I just adjusted the offending wall point by point, in section view, to make it fit. Harris_Ward1:BIGROB.plan

it was just a matter of connecting, breaking and reconnecting some of your roof planes. and adding attic walls.

Take a look at this and see if it's what you're looking for. BIGROB.plan

thanks Robert.

Does anyone have nickel-gap ship-lap they'd be willing to share? I'm not sure what the ship-lap is in the CA library but it's not the ship-lap i'm looking for. Thanks.