StephenGreene

double click the room, then change ceiling height under Structure.

yes.... and i just recently renewed my SSA. now i wish i had saved my money.

i'm pretty sure M1 is NOT supported by X13.

invisible walls turned off in camera view??

i attached a plan that has what you want but i'm not sure you can open it since it was done in X12. there were a few things that i did: realigned the upstairs wall on the right with the downstairs wall, eliminated the wall on the backside (inside of the bay window), eliminated the bay window wall to the right and then redrew the far right wall at an angle which allowed the corner to build correctly, moved the porch roof up to second floor and worked it around the bay window (it was cutting into that space), turned off the auto roof return on second floor and redrew it manually, manually drew in roof returns on front of dormer, manually drew in attic walls above bay window, pulled up bay window walls a couple inches to close gap with attic walls above bay window. Maybe this will help. 296087595_2ndsharpehouse.plan

post the plan and someone will take a look.

as i stated before, we always used centers and for the very reason you mentioned -there is no question as to where the wall goes because it goes in the center. i once hired a framer from Georgia that preferred edges and his terminology was "set ahead" or "set back" when noting a measurement to the edge of a wall.

this must be a local preference. i framed and built for 30 years and preferred the dimensions to the centers. in fact, every builder and/or framer i knew preferred the same.

use Open Below from the room dialogue to create the open space above your living room. i created a second floor and created walls for your dormer. You may need to make your roof a bit steeper to get the look you want. i didn't put a roof on this. Larsonem:Dugan.plan

yeah, they can act very weird sometimes.

Rob, I just adjusted the offending wall point by point, in section view, to make it fit. Harris_Ward1:BIGROB.plan

it was just a matter of connecting, breaking and reconnecting some of your roof planes. and adding attic walls.

Take a look at this and see if it's what you're looking for. BIGROB.plan

thanks Robert.

Does anyone have nickel-gap ship-lap they'd be willing to share? I'm not sure what the ship-lap is in the CA library but it's not the ship-lap i'm looking for. Thanks.

i made a carousel once, just for fun. or at least started one. never did get around to adding horses. kinda neat to see it spin around in camera view.

seriously considering it.

very nice! your dragonfly appears to be a Four-spotted Pennant.

Same here. Me and my crew often would frame a house and the scraps would barely fill a couple of wheelbarrows, while the crew next door would have enough scrap to fill a roll-off dumpster. And I've seen drywall hangers and bricklayers that were just as bad (or good).

yes, thanks to all!

That looks better than I ever thought it could, but I think I'd eliminate that weird floating half-gable and just hip that to match the original roof.

post the plan and someone will help you.

No, I do not use an external monitor.

I operate a Mac and have yet to encounter this problem.

As someone who has framed hundreds of homes in the last 35 years, I've probably used trusses on less than 15-20 of those. The primary reason being most were complicated, multi-pitch, cut-up, hip roofs with rooms of varying heights. Yes, I know even those type houses *can* be trussed, but if I were putting it together, I'd charge 5X versus what i would for stick-framing. Most all of the truss homes we've done had rooms with long, clear spans or cathedrals where stick-framing. just wasn't a viable alternative.