javatom

I think he is talking about the zip wall panels that have an inch of insulation panel on the inside. Be careful specifying these. Some areas will not let it count toward the brace wall panels because of the insulation that sits between the sheathing and the wall framing.

Helium filled shingle?

You might want to check for code compliance on this. A bathroom under a stairs rarely has enough headroom to not be in violation.

You might have an object in the plan that you don't know is there. Turn all layers on. Hit F6. This will put everything on the screen. That might help you track it down.

I recently saw a very impressive but very involved way of creating an arched top cabinet. (see fun challenge #4) It involved many steps and a lot of parts. I often solve things with this same idea of poly line solids to create something. I was a really nice looking finished product. Nice job Rene. I made this to show a really fast way of creating this if your client might want to keep adjusting the size of it and you want to do it fast. This only takes a few minutes. Build window on an exterior wall so you can control inside and outside casings. I added the thicker exterior wall after I built it but you can always made it a symbol and use it on another plan. Changing the size is a simple matter of adjusting 4 controllable things. 1. adjust window to new cabinet size. 2. adjust width of base cabinet to new size. 3. adjust width of wall cabinet. 4. adjust width of one poly line solid. Adjusting this would take less time than it took my to type this explanation. Advantages - lightening fast, looks like a tolerable representation of the real thing. Disadvantages - less detail, could never be used as a shop drawing, can not be shown with the doors open (because it is really a window).

Wow, that thing should be in the carpenter hack hall of fame.

This is the settings I used.

I have always done this with 2 roof planes. The bottom one has the curve. I try to set the curve at a point that it could be framed with a sistered 2x12 that is cut to match the curve. That will be a small flare but should look ok. For more of a flared look, you have to increase the curve amount and the intersection point will move up toward the top of the roof. It looks better that way but would be tougher to build.

Place your text in a layer that will be used with the floor plan view. Turn that layer off in the other views. Each view should have its own text layer set that is special to that view.

"edit wall layer intersection" tool should do the trick. You have to click on a wall and hit that tool then you can change it.

Go into your layers and turn off "walls, Main layer only".

Open your current version of Chief and then open the plan file. I think it will load it in to the newer version.

Try turning your computer off for a few minutes then try it again.

I'm pretty sure the guy sweeping the floor at the job site gets paid more than this.

I can not recall a single time I have needed this fill. I always delete it.

I think he wants the blocks running plumb. This one has them perpendicular to the roof plane.

Poly line solids placed on their own layer - done in 5 min. Frieze board will drive you nuts for an hour getting it even close.

Have the engineer add it to your PDF. If it is being done under the engineers direction, they can send you a jpeg of a signed stamp and you can import it into your layout. Make sure they know that you are doing it this way and send them a copy of the stamped version for their records.

A slab supporting a wall is not entirely about the compressive strength. It is about the lack of a footing. A slab on grade could become subject to frost heave. The OP is from Eagar AZ. The elevation is 7000' so it might be an issue for the project. I would hate to be trying to defend the choice of eliminating footings at some point in the future but then again, anyone that wants to live in a pole barn probably doesn't really care.

A residential floor load on a bearing wall needs a footing with continuous rebar. A 4" slab is NOT going to work for this purpose.

Cris, the job was completed 2 yrs ago. You might want to check the dates on these before you post a response.

Make sure the electrician knows about this. The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.

Move the roof plane in the Z direction then join them at the top with the roof plane on the other side.

This might do the trick as Chopsaw indicated.

I would imagine that all areas would need bolts to secure the bottom plate.