javatom

I'm pretty sure the guy sweeping the floor at the job site gets paid more than this.

I can not recall a single time I have needed this fill. I always delete it.

I think he wants the blocks running plumb. This one has them perpendicular to the roof plane.

Poly line solids placed on their own layer - done in 5 min. Frieze board will drive you nuts for an hour getting it even close.

Have the engineer add it to your PDF. If it is being done under the engineers direction, they can send you a jpeg of a signed stamp and you can import it into your layout. Make sure they know that you are doing it this way and send them a copy of the stamped version for their records.

A slab supporting a wall is not entirely about the compressive strength. It is about the lack of a footing. A slab on grade could become subject to frost heave. The OP is from Eagar AZ. The elevation is 7000' so it might be an issue for the project. I would hate to be trying to defend the choice of eliminating footings at some point in the future but then again, anyone that wants to live in a pole barn probably doesn't really care.

A residential floor load on a bearing wall needs a footing with continuous rebar. A 4" slab is NOT going to work for this purpose.

Cris, the job was completed 2 yrs ago. You might want to check the dates on these before you post a response.

Make sure the electrician knows about this. The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.

Move the roof plane in the Z direction then join them at the top with the roof plane on the other side.

This might do the trick as Chopsaw indicated.

I would imagine that all areas would need bolts to secure the bottom plate.

It might be a little hard to install seismic hardware etc. with this set up.

The wood walls should align to the the foundation NOT the brick. Think of the brick as a facade. It does not support the walls above it.

This home is in an area of wind speed 90 and seismic C. That detail might not work in all areas. I usually spec something like what Scott shows and let the engineer dial in the specifications. I live in an area where the builders do not like to use steel. The specifics of your area can greatly influence a lot of the specifications.

I have done them out of wood as well. The engineer usually requires 6x6 columns of Glulam material or PSL. It is then balloon framed with a lot of hold down steel straps and bolts. The tricky part is supporting the header between the upper and lower windows. I usually use a hidden hanger. The HUC series works well.

That stair would be a no go where I live.

It is because you have the window top higher than the bottom of the floor joist of the level above. Lower the windows.

This is kind of like asking how much a car costs per pound.

Your roof plane is cutting into it. Just pull the roof back to the point of the siding and you will be fine.

The individual stair segments should be the same specifications for them to connect. It helps if you lock the treads as you build them so you can avoid varying tread depths.

Just turn the label off for that room and add your own note saying what you want it to say. You can place that note in the room label layer.

Dimensions set to wall centers are a great way to NEVER get a referral from that builder again.

Maybe you have some invisible walls that are defining a deck area. Turn ALL your layers on and it might show up.

Looking for someone to help with overflow drafting work. Most work consists of drafting the basics of the structure from sketches. Remote work is OK. Must have current software and capable equipment.