Countertop extension dimension

[mtldesigns]

Ok..  burning the candle on both ends as of late, so I need a refresher.  I cannot figure out how to set the dimensions to measure the countertop width.  I have gone through and updated the default dimension settings at "Locate Manual", "Locate End to End" all of them, and checked countertop.  My obvious fix is to draw a line and dimension to that.. which I do not want to do.  I know one of you guys have it on the top of your head.

 

Its always the little things...

 

Spring has sprung here in sunny Florida!

 

 

[Dermot]

Actually, I prefer to use the "End to End Dimension" tool instead of the "Point to Point Dimension" tool.  The "Point to Point" tool will place Markers if you don't pick up the object you are trying to dimension and the "End to End" tool won't do this.

 

If you are using the "End to End" tool you should set the "Locate End to End" settings in your dimension defaults.

 

[mtldesigns]

Hey gents,

 

I tried both, of course I had to change the defaults, but that's ok.  I will update my default temp-plate as well.  And as mentioned, the PTP does leave parkers (I hate markers TBH), plus they don't move with a change.  I did use the ETE and I'm good with it.  Thanks Eric, Thanks Dermont.  See two others besides me here on a late Sunday night. :-)

 

Curious though, when do you use a PTP dimension?  Thinking about it, I've never had used it.  I've always used the ETE and hold the control button down when I need something not vert or horiz.            

[CharlesVolz]

In elevations, when the dimension snaps do not behave so well.

[SHCanada2]

53 minutes ago, mtldesigns said:

when do you use a PTP dimension? 

I find it useful for as builts as it sets a marker. then you can move walls around for different scenarios.  Other than interior dimensions and auto exterior dimensions, I tend to use P2P everywhere else just because you can pick up pretty much wherever, I find it useful for dimensioning center of piles to foundation, and for site plans (where there is an image). 

[Gawdzira]

I place the small line and use it to get the number I want. This fascination with model accuracy to the nth degree is mind boggling to me.This might be due to the fact that I started with a pencil on paper to make construction documents. My pencil weight thickness could be 3" on a bad day. Does that countertop have to be within and 1/2" inch? What are you trying to achieve? If I am drafting a detail to show Simpson how to make a custom bracket and it will get exported out to a .dxf, then certainly, be perfect. Otherwise, "good enough for camera" works for me.

[LevisL]

A couple options that don't involve cad lines or points...

[MarkMc]

16 hours ago, mtldesigns said:

"Locate Manual", "Locate End to End" all of them, and checked countertop.

That's what I use all the time with no problem. I also keep cabinets checked though which means you get the dim for the front overhang.

If I don't want that, can either remove the 1-1/2 OR turn off cabinets get the full run then drag diamond to get the cabinet (as long as that layer is on)

I rarely use P to P dims and tell all my clients not to use that since too often it's not to a snap point when it should be.

[mtldesigns]

Interesting comments for sure..  we all have our methods I guess..

17 hours ago, Gawdzira said:

This fascination with model accuracy

I am anal on this, but that's just me.  When I worked Catia (piping) for all those years at Newport News Shipbuilding, we designed to the millions of an inch for the Catia test to run, of course we built to the 1/4".. lol.  So I joke about that often. But that was instilled in my head, all these years later.  Plus with working with inventor, you had to be very accurate as well.   And with Chief's "Temporary Dims" checked, it just makes it easy to zero it in.