Chrisb222

If you turned off Auto Rebuild Roofs, it won't automatically generate. Yes, very easy to draw a manual roof plane there using Premier. I'm not sure if Interiors has that tool, I use Premier.

"Smallest Fraction" settings are different for those two dimension Formats, so the program is rounding based on your settings. See your Auto Story Pole Dimension Defaults:

I don't think so, not according to this PPI calculator: https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/technology/ppi-calculator.php Michael's numbers all worked out close using this calculator, but yours do not. I'm certainly no expert on this, and no offense intended, but I didn't want any Mac users to make a purchase decision if that information is not correct.

Yeah even my truss company uses a better 3D program. My homeowner clients are still impressed because they're not used to seeing anything like that, plus it's a model of their home so that's gratifying to them. Are you using a third party app?

I share your frustration. Personally, I have not found a way to do that. I have written and saved detailed instructions for when I email a link of their model to clients, including to switch the rendering technique, and that there are two ways to navigate the model and to play around with both, and let me know if they have problems. My clients run into more issues with navigating than they do with the rendering technique. Some older folks just never get it. Not enough time spent playing video games I guess.

Just throwing this out there, but I've spent a lot of time learning to understand what causes that "weird stuff" and how to correct or avoid it. Time well spent.

Michael, I am not having any issues like you describe, and wanted to let you know, as a fellow Mac user, this plan is not slow on my M1Max Studio at all. Most things I tried were instant, or only a 1 second delay. Just thought you might like to know that. Good luck.

Auto-built rafter roof with OOB 9-1/4" Structure thickness changed to 3-1/2": After using Michael's method of switching Roof Defaults to Trusses, no Birdsmouth, drawing a manual roof plane, noting the baseline height, then applying that value to all roof planes using Edit All Roof Planes: Only now the gutter board is out of place...

Yes that makes it easy to reset the structure thickness on all the planes at once. Still need to lower the roof, and that's where Michael's suggestions are helpful for getting an accurate baseline height. Edit All Roof Planes works there as well.

Yeah, that has already been covered. The OP had manually-built roof planes they wanted to preserve. Checking Trusses wouldn't solve the problem with the existing roof planes.

Right. But the OP already had manually-built roof planes they wanted to preserve, and had not checked Trusses, No Birdsmouth before doing so. That's when the program uses the rafter thickness (9-1/4" in OP's case) to build the roof deck. The test I did was using the OOB template also, but first building the roof without checking the Trusses option. That's what the OP did. Then I tried just lowering the roof and building trusses, to see if it mattered whether or not I changed the Structure thickness, as I suggested the OP do. So far I haven't been able to get the desired result without doing that.

I've been playing around with your suggestions and can't get the right results without first changing the structure thickness that is generated when using the OOB settings (9-1/4"). The baseline height comes out right and the truss is drawn correctly, but the ceiling and wall height issues are still there. The clip below is what I keep getting: I keep going over your instructions but it always comes out like the above. Tried resetting wall top heights, didn't change it...

That's why I suggested opening the Roof Planes and changing the structure setting there. Yes after more experimentation I see that simply making the structure thickness of a previously-drawn manual plane 3-1/2" doesn't work. After changing the structure thickness, moving all the planes up 4" seems about right but will depend on the roof pitch. The OP mentioned they had already built the manual roof planes. My suggestion was a way for them to obtain the desired result without having to rebuild the roof. I'm not aware of another method to do so, if you do please add. Thanks for your clarification and correction.

The structure setting. Yours is 9-1/4" which is the default setting for a rafter roof. When you check trusses on auto build, the structure is thinner which lowers your roof plane. Change the structure setting to 3-1/2" should get you what you want. The slope you saw in your ceiling was the bottom of your thick roof deck being pushed down into the room when you lowered the roof plane. Not the right way to do it.

Caused by the thickness of the roof deck. Open the roof plane, go to Structure tab, Roof Layers section.

See video: wall.mov

Best I could do: (on a Mac)

All he did was move the wall in toward the main building. Why did they disappear then reappear? It's a "Chief Thang" lol

I have to do this a lot with houses that are on narrow lots with parallel sidelines. Here is my method which is the same as chopsaw with a little more detail: I draw using the survey, with a north pointer set at true north. Then I copy the angle of one of the lines I want parallel to the house and paste it into the transform/replicate dialog. If you want bearing readings to show on the plot lines, include the north pointer with the rotate command, which will retain the bearings. Sometimes another rotate at 90° is required, just because I don't bother with figuring that out beforehand.

No. Line weights "on" shows the dash the way it will print. Line weights "off" changes that. Just the way it is.

If you want to modify individual sections independently, you have to shift select the section you want to edit. Then the railing settings will only apply to that section.

According to the video I watched on new features, X14 will dimension the cut length, but angled cuts are measured to the center of the angle. I never heard a framer reference the center of an angle cut, it's always to the "long" or to the "short." I can't WAIT to see the reactions when they're given the center of the angle... on second thought, I don't want to be around; hammers may be thrown.

You can also extend one of the cabinet's countertops to whatever you need:

I never downvote. I would never use it because anonymous downvoting is cowardly. Now hit me with them Reddies

Yeah that's it. Mwahahahahaha!!