MarkMc

Way to go,ets easier with practice. Tip for getting used to new version : the PDF of the Reference Manual lists "what's new ". Each new feature listing has link to its page in the manual. Might want to get both X 10 & 11 manuals since there's been a lot. I still use that section

That meeting was a year ago. A partial video is posted above as is a zip folder with files from it. There's other useful things in this section and symbols. May go back as much as 3 years. Look around.

Took a look around and came across this which has a couple of things worth looking into. https://visser.io/2016/04/fix-for-stuttering-lag-in-bluetooth-mouse-on-windows-10/ I also so one post that the issue was caused by heat throttling the CPU which can happen on tablets. I'd check that too.

Not the mouse driver, the bluetooth driver(s) are where the issue has been.

Are you on Windows 10 build 1903? is is recentt update? or did you get another Win update recently? There was a known issue with Bluetooth with the update and or maybe they tried to fix that and messed yours up? Just a thought-might try to roll back driver instead of update.

I"m not one of the macro gurus mentioned above (do look for posts by them elsewhere) but have been going through the learning. I've tried a number of things what works for me may not work for you or the reverse. Go through the Ruby Tutorial in Chief-more than once and occasionally after. There is also some useful info in the current Reference Manual. Look at macros posted on the forum and try to understand them. Test parts in the Text macro management console. There are a lot of resources on the web: pdf books, cheat sheets, and what I call Ruby Central I like physical paper books but found very few useful beginners books-some are positively useless."Ruby Programming For Beginners -The Simple Guide to Learning Ruby Programming language Fast!" is small, intimidating and OK Forget about fast-go slow. Learn to enjoy the expression "Evaluation Error" Do small things first (maybe for a long while) Get a language aware text editor (I use Notepad ++, think Joe has a better one?) Do NOT install Ruby on your machine-it will only confuse you. A great deal of what is written applies only to Ruby on your machine and not in Chief-skip those parts. The one book I found that really useful for me is "The Well Grounded Rubyist" which can be had in a bundle combining a physical book (Pbook) and digital formats if you get it fromt he publisher (Manning) Different folks have different styles of working with Ruby some will make more sense to you than others. Don't let it bother you if you don't get what one person offers that is different from what another offers. There are often several ways to get something done in Ruby. I've had some time with several people-sometimes it's helped a little, sometimes not so much. (Think it's how I'm put together). YMMV IF it's really important pay one of the folks who does this to do it for you. Most of what I do is simple so I can now manage. The few things that are complicated, difficult are not important to me at the moment so I'm just fitting them in somewhere along the way (charity work if you will) Above all be patient.

Auto interior dimension tool is not listed there in Premier either but I'd be surprised if you don't have it in Interiors. Did you check Help? reference manual? look in your dimension defaults-is it listed there? if it is AND you don't have the icon pictured on the toolbar you can add it (look in help on how) Welcome aboard- take some time to fil in your signature-makes it easier for people to help. Be sure to download the PDF of the reference manual. It's a great resource, good bed time reading :)

I didn't notice that since I often check here on my phone which doesn't show sigs and I tend to assume folks are up to date. Didn't' see that you were on X9 until I redid it in X10. Ah well. Sorry I only have 9 on my 2 in 1 and likely taking it off of there. In any case since I went ahead with it FWIW you can ease into new things in X11 -worth the time and effort IMO. X10 2 hinge.plan

AFAIK cabinets are hard wired to have 3 hinges if the height is greater than 39" (many makers have 3 at 39") To change it visually you need a door symbol with two hinges and no knob or handle. Set cabinet to have hidden hinges. The bounding box and origin need to be adjusted. Made this one from a 15" cabinet. When turning into a symbol the bounding box wants to be 15 5/8 which includes the hinge. Changed BB to 15" then offset the X origin by 5/16 to center the box on the door, set the stretch zones so rails, stiles and hinges don't change when resizing. For some reason that I don't understand it needs to be made with hinges on the right to work properly. (Open Symbol and see what's going on, then go to videos or reference manual for more on symbols) IF you need to change the hing quantity in the material list that gets done in the components tab. I included a simple macro that does that. It's in the two cabinets on the far left in the plan (not in the picture) one of which I set to default. You can do something similar to change the notation for hidden hinge if need be but only if you are serioulsy using the ML. Two hinge door.plan

It will resize correctly up to the width you made it before converting to a symbol...(so long as you have not changed the bounding box). In image attached all have drawer box made at 48" wide EXCEPT for the one on the right which has a drawer box made at 36" wide. Learning to create and manipulate symbols takes some time and practice. There is a video or two. Another good resource is the user manual. I printed out all relevant pages from the user manual (maybe 6 pgs) and kept them handy. There are still things I either forget or fool me once in a while so even then there can be trial and error as you try more advanced things. Suggest doing some reading and download some symbols from here and open them (the symbol not just the item) to see how others have done things. Something I use when fiddling with symbols is to alter the name when adding them to the library so that all versions end up at the top of the list. That way it is easier to change them out in situations where it must be done from the DBX. To move a library item to the top of the list add some spaces or underscore to the front of the name i.e " 1 Drawerbox", " 2 Drawerbox", etc or "___1DRWbx"... Sometimes you can change a symbol by dragging it onto an object in a 3D, like a cabinet door, view which is very fast. The naming trick still helps there. BTW-helps us to help if you fill out your signature and often post the plan.

I like that a lot. Michaels trick with the text box is nice, didn't know that one. Joe that doesn't work, the block is correct but the space is at the front of it, that's where we started. One thing that does work (in part) is to rotate the symbol 180 degrees and resize the bounding box. The depth of the box only changes towards the front. That can give you the offset from the wall but requires rotating the symbol after placement. The other problem is if you are using a schedule the dimensions read the size of the bounding box not the object. (Plan attached) I usually do this sort of thing with a symbol and another object (no material, and/or sunk into the floor) as an architectural block kept in the library) For instance I use that Do that a lot for cabinet fillers for instance so they read correct depth in schedule and don't confuse the installers. washer-dryer_RVS.plan

Attached- inserted cad block from your symbol in to the plan, copied the polyline and positioned it relative to the block. Assinged it a blank line stile, exploded the existing block, then blocked it all together and assigned to the symbol. Not sure why the outline is showing so would need to fiddle a little further with that to see what needs to be done to make the Pline not show as part of the symbol. Likely would place a toilet in plan, then the block from it so I could examine how that is done. It's a start anyway. washer-dryer.plan

You only need an appliance opening IF your drawer box has a drawer head on it. IF you created a drawer box that just goes inside the cabinet but uses the cabinets drawer front then-1) it must defined as a fixture 2) you specify it in the front/sides/back tab of the drawer itself

Polyline-fill grid 12" x 12" or whatever, transparent background, line color to suit.

The vid I posted is not of the meeting it was made prior for use during it. The vid from the meeting was something like 125 MB and I'd figured out a that there was better way to do all this the day before the meeting so things were a little choppy.

Might have to do with the top RO forcing the the header up and reducing the actual dimension? These are both set at 11 1/4 in the door DBX

If you converted to a symbol then the best bet is to find the original plan where you made it. A copy should at least be in the archives as long as you saved it once. If it is an architectural block and not a symbol then place it in plan. You can then either explode the block OR better yet, select it, then use the tab key to select objects within the block so you can replace or edit them. Best practice for things like island that are just an collection of things is to make block to add to the library. For symbols best practice is to have a folder (and sub folders) where you save any plans used to convert something to a symbol so you can go back and make changes to it.

Like Eric said- open the symbol, look at sizing, this one is 72" high in an 80" opening. Short Door.calibz

I can't from a hardware perspective. A lot of little things that are in your control help, which is what is being pointed out. Keep all unused layers are off, control with layer sets. (no reason to have framing on all the time). Have a working layer set keeping hatching, patterns textures off as much as possible. Avoid unnecessary anno sets, layer sets, or layers. Import and export as needed. (To see how this affects things check the file size of a large plan, open it. Then open an OOB plan template. In the first plan-all layers on and unlocked, edit area-all floors, select all copy. Paste into the OOB plan, save as untitled. Compare file sizes.) Use secondary plans for rendering or lots of interior fixtures (my work revolves around that stuff) or landscape. Avoid PDFs if at all possible-convert to dwg, text, png. Schedules only in CAD details, never in floor plan. As much text in CAD details as possible. Use warehouse plans as often as possible. Often better to convert psolids and the like to symbols. Besides they are easier to reuse and can be saved in specific plans prior to converting for alteration later. Avoid unnecessary macros. AND there still will be times that things lag.

With X11 it's no longer necessary to make a CAD mask for the as built. Save that as existing plan, then do save as for remodel. Use a reference set to show the existing, link the ref set to the existing plan file, determine what shows and what colors etc from the existing. You will want to denote demo walls and such on the existing. A lot easier. (and live just in case something was missed on the existing :) Note that this can also be used in 3D which works nicely if it's an addition. Bit tough to get looking good for interior remodel depending on what is going on. Search the forum for the most effective way to use it in 3D. Works backwards IMO. In 3D the file that you are using for reference can only show as glass house OR standard view. Problem is that the glass house has no line definition used that way. The view that you are starting with can be any type of render AND glass house does have line definition. So for an addition I take the perspective in the existing file, reference the addition. Make the existing file glass house (with the render type option not in the reference display DBX) Then in the reference display DBX set the addition to standard. works for most things. Here's a couple of quick examples though it looks as if the exising is the wrong file (job in progress here)

nice

Have Chief running on the laptop, object and temp dim selected, measure with the Disto, send, object moves-repeat as needed. I cheat on things like mulled or bay windows and use only one window to get overall dimension. A few things I haven't worked out directly yet such as pitch, and terrain I make some notes. Process is very fast and allows checking before leaving which is a real bonus. Only need minor clean up later. I should mention that it was Al Frey, Chief trainer and I believe the first user, who told me about this some years ago at the show. I finally listened to him last year at the Academy. App is free from Leica (Windows only). There is something for phones but I know nada about it since phones don't run Chief (only Room Planner). Disto Transfer For the OP- the Spectre has 2 USB- type C, one USB type A (for mouse dongle so Bluetooth is limited to the Disto), and a micro SD slot (bump up storage on the cheap) worth keeping ports in mind when shopping.

NO, I use an app from Disto that just reads into Chief directly so I can do entire structure instead of room at a time.

I use the Spectre 2in1 in my signature paired with a Disto 7500i for direct field measures into Chief. Wish I tried that years ago. Cobbled together a little table out of an old tripod and some sintra. It's just fine for general work as long as I don't mess too much with PBR. It will do PBR, there's just a lag getting it opening to start. Graham (KitchenAdobe) has run tests on his which is slightly older. When he told me he could run Grandview on it that settled it for me. Runs Chief best on High Perfomance settings which cuts back on battery life but still more than adequate for my needs and keeps the fans going nicely. I likely should have gotten the 16GB version I think since the graphics card uses the RAM but at the time I didn't expect to be running Chief on it as much as I do. I've seen it compare favorably to the XPS machines. When got mine the price was much better than the Dells or the Surface (black Friday-$1k). I usually pair it with a trackball and only occasionally as a tablet so I don't use the pen or the touch pad much but don't find any issues with them. I gather the Dell and Surface are better in that department. I also use a little free app called Radial Menu that's handy in tablet mode, as it setting up toolbar config for the field. I don't keep a full library on it so don't know if my big user library would slog it down or not. Nice little machine all in all. I have the 1920 resolution, at that size I don't want 4k.

Register at rev-a-shelf website then you can download 3D dwg of the entire line from them.