MarkMc

Face frame-two cabinets. SOP for inset corner susans. Face frame.plan

another though (never could resist a rabbit hole). Decent results can be had using the method I use for changing material of cabinet interior. Need some seperate symbols for varied depths cabinets-I've posted stuff in the past in Symbols or Tips-check there for more. These could still use a little work for better vector view at the front (may not be possible) Anyway here ya go, last ones I'm trying. Drilled sides F.plan

I was wrong- sort of. Had a thought and gave it a quick go. There is an easy way if you don't care about vector or technical illustration or willing to clean up layout lines. Then again these don't show all that much in standard or PBR to be worthwhile. In any case here ya go. To make something with clean vector views will be much more difficult and I still don't think is worth the effort. But if you have a pay at it let us know what works eh? Drilled sides.plan

I would not even think about that. If needed for some strange customers then specify it. If thinking of CNC, or some other actual production were a spec won't suffice you should be looking into CabinetVision or other software made for the purpose. If it just amuses you it can be done building the entire cabinet from custom door symbols. (assuming you have too much time on your hands;->

YOu can make stretches with a custom cabinet door used as side panel inset. Shelves with holes -make it out of psolids and turn it into fixture interior. For the shelves you will likely need more than one symbol since they won't resize well-depends on what you're after. The stretcher included will resize in width just fine. You may need to alter the symbol if using wood instead of paint but whatdyawantfornuttin.:) This took 15 minutes Plan attached- go throught he DBX of the cabinet to understand what is going on, then OPEN SYMBOL of the included stretcher to see how that is set up-I set it for a 1/16" reveal. Then save these things and any you make to the library AND save the plans, particularly the holes, for reuse in the future. You can set you default cabinets to have stretchers like this. Cab with stretchers and holy shelves.plan

I agree entirely/ I'd pick which method you like, place cabinet in library and I keep plans like these in sub folders where I also keep symbol plans I made. That way it's easy to use again if it comes up and easy to set the size.

Had a play with some inserted doors-one in back and one on side. Those have issues too and since I don't need this now left it alone... A curious thing that I can't figure-in image cabinet on left is yours just moved over and added a side (has issue at toe) then took one of mine and changed the separation to 0-so both have the same settings -they don't look the same though? can't figure what happens there. Have to get back to work now though. Cabinets for Shelving 2.plan

Nothing- I overlapped them to close it up. Your plan has a U. That works fine the way you did it-center cabinet set to 0 separation. But if you want an ell, as the first images, doing it that way you need to float in a side panel of some sort-no big deal. I want to be able to resize at will which is why I did it the other way so no extra part to move. Just depends on what you need. If I needed an accurate schedule and resize then I'd use your method BUT add the side panel into the back of the cabinet. Just didn't want to get into how to do that (hack symbols) right now :).

Generally you can't get the automatic toe kicks to behave properly in these. Quick easy way is cabinet no toe kick, adjust height shorter and off the floor by the toe kick height. Add psolid or I like a molding line-snapped to the front with the molding offset by the correct depth. For more complicated situations I have a bunch of cabinet doors -flats that have an offset and depth and or width locked- that I use as toe kicks set into face of side, back, front ...depending. I also have cabinet door symbols that are the side of a cabinet with a toe in it. But all that is complicated and only needed in special cases.

Close- I don't set the separation to zero in box construction. Rather in the face item I set one or the other to that. Also use openings for one side.

Have shown this on the forum in the past-use an angle front cabinet and rotate it. Then you can still change the door style, a symbol won't let you do that. Once you have the angle correct and fit into place you can drag the end opposite the angle, the back in the one shown, along the wall to change the width. Angle cabinet.plan

From what I can tell based on the amount of data written when I monitor it undo does not save a complete plan. I believe it saves a set of instructions. AFAIK the important numbers are the ones inside the red boxes and I'm not sure which one. For undo it will be the read speed. Again from monitoring it does not appear that the bottleneck is in the drive itself but I could be wrong. I have a hunch it is after the drive -hoping it is the PCIE lanes. Which is why we'd like some real world idea if you can get one. Attached a shot of your benches and some of mine-I find they vary quite a bit both over time and what's been going on with the machine. No idea why.

Once upon a time the goto on the forum was Kerkythea (free) the predecessor to Thea. Kerkythea is still out there as a stand alone freeware. Look here I have no idea what the differences are, maybe Rene can tell you. When Thea was being released as a commercial product they had an early adopter price so I got a license for Studio. I only ever fiddled with it. Came a time that there was a kitchen job where I thought I'd need it. Rene was kind enough to give me a short tutorial on it-impressive. I fiddled a little more. PBR came out in Beta a few weeks later and that job went south so Thea sits unused. My work doesn't require more than I can do quickly with PBR, not near what Graham and Rene do, but using their tips the folks (extremely grateful fellas-thanks

Just saw this, what a great idea Rene! Looks like a lot more fun than actually doing it. Mine fit the two cars and the shop until a couple of months ago when staging the house. Now the downsizing has it in chaos. This is after two daughters were here over the weekend, left with full SUVs. I started rearranging for the moving sale late this am. I like your way better :)

Cool, I'm thinking along similar lines, waiting till after we move and get settled. Be curious how the undo set up works out. Maybe if you get a chance you might do one or two of Grahams stress tests?

does this do what you want? Has "Both Wall Sides Checked" Automatic dims are slightly different The only way to avoid getting dims on interior walls when dragging manual is using a separate layer and turning it off. Openings depends on what you want.

While I agree there are places that the modeling tools could use improvement I don't think that is the problem with this instance. It's a question of what can be done in reality. Chief will not miter this with a 3D modling line when coming in at an angle because it can't be done IRL.

This is a variation on Bill's which uses the same method I posted earlier in the services section. The problem with the wood photo and Bills method arises when you connect the run of gutter on the long horizontal which neither shows. So instead of making the eave assembly with the gutter profile as is I tilted it by the pitch. Then after converting to a symbol the entire symbol is tilted to the pitch. This will connect to any horizontal gutters correctly with the only modification to the molding taking place at the eave. It's still a bit of a bear to do in the field to determine your saw setting though. This is one reason that any detail you dig up on these will have extra flat molding sections to ensure it is sealed off properly. As I noted yesterday I'd favor doing as the photo of the actual on a house above which has no gutter on the face of the eave where the slope would be silly deep for water anyway. The only other alternative is with a short flat as Glenn and I think someone else posted yesterday, at least if you are looking for something that can actually be done IRL. molding for cornice tilted.plan

You're not, I just left out that part. Most often I just use a shelf to make the bottom. I do have a lot of parts I insert into the back of the cabinet and have bottoms (stiles, toe kicks, ....) Just saw this Larry, musta been asleep. You can use the same chamfer for different heights if you don't need to change where it starts in relation to the top and bottom by setting a stretch zone that falls above the bottom and below the top of the curves of the chamfer. You can change where the chamfer starts by setting a stretch plane above or below (or both as pictured). For variations in the start and end then you need new symbols but those can be quickly done with generations-set stretch plane, alter height, convert to symbol-redo...These both started with the symbol in the middle at 30" high and were resized to 36" each with different stretch definitions. For different with or depth of chamfer you need a new symbol

It's exactly what I'd be doing IRL. Those will only mitre correctly on the same plane. If the horizontal is on a normal plane and the angle is on another plane the heights will never match at the corner-just simple geometry. So the idea is to make the joint on a plane and rotate the entire assembly. Place molding profile for the gutter; rotate by the pitch in degrees so that when that section is done it will align again with the straight horizontal gutter. Add to library. Made an "L" with that profile. Convert to a symbol, while converting rotate the symbol to the pitch. Horizontal gutter is standard profile-it will not miter to the symbol but can be cheated for 3D-cleaned up in CAD if need be. Miter at the peak also has issues and sometimes can be cheated for 3D. To get things to mitre and/or to join at the peak use the same technique but with psolids. Convert the molding profiles to solid of whatever depth. Use plain flat blocks set at angle to mitre the ends with psolid subtraction . With a little luck you can nudge them together and not have to join the solids-will help if you have to do several. Save the parts in a plan for further generations. I see that his rakes don't join to a horizontal, have you tried that?

The two images are not done the same IRL the first one has no gutter on the protico so easier to do, the second one does but doesn't show the return. IRL or on the computer for the second one (wood picture) the mitre is done on the ground, the assembly is then tilted to the pitch. It gets coped to the regular gutter on the roof return and fussed with at the peak. Attached plan has an idea-used the easier profile from (and didn't mess with other details for it)wood gutter 2.plan http://jpmoriarty.com/wood_molding_catalog/002_gutter/wood-gutters-t&h.pdf A full gutter profile can be done as well but would be harder to actually build. Plan attached is down and dirty. Adjusting the symbol to something useful so the block lines up and such would still be needed. The angle for a 3D view has to be done per roof pitch. In the long run if this had to be redone for different pitches then doing Chops idea of boolean operations with solids would be the way to go. detail has png of 2 details from the supplier in question. wood gutter 2.plan

The Gimp will do it.Been a while so I don't remember but should be help for it there.

If you have premier and not interiors there are ways to expedite that with detail from view and an annotation set. Video might be a great idea but would need to be several totalling an hour. I'

To change schedule numbers drag up and down in Schedule or use icon on edit toolbar at bottom To change label delete what's there and put what you want or click automatic label. If you are reconfiguring cabinet faces it's likely better to start with a different cabinet, simpler. If what you're asking is something else post more complete info in the Q & A section in a new thread.

Been using zoom.us for about 5 yrs. Found it cheaper, easier, and I like the interface and annotation tools. At first when there were stretches of less need I'd switch to the free account (1 person meetings, 45 minute limit) then just reactivate my account as needed. Nowadays I just leave it, cheap enough. My wife belongs to a support group that uses it so not a lot of tech savvy needed.