MarkMc

Took a look, different. Near as I can tell all of the dwg files are 2D which will not make a symbol if that is what you are after. AFAIK there is no way to convert Revit symbols without having Revit (if anyone knows I'd love to hear?) Rummaging around there is one file zip file with a few 3DS files in it. IF any of those are what you are after they work. The file is 3form_shapes_files_3ds_format.zip. What it has in it: For any of the others you would have to start with something 2D and make a symbol from that. IF you have CAD details in Interiors (I know you don't have detail from view)-would be CAD, CAD detail management-new. You can bring in a 2D dwg and start from that. Bit of work though.

Assuming you mean when the large monitor is connected to the laptop? that would indicate that the monitor is running off the Intel Card. On some laptops it is not possible to connect an external to the dedicated video card, it often depends on what the port you are using is attached to internally. FWIW I ran the test on a 27" 3k BenQ connected by displayport but my Sager does not have an Intel card. My last Sager had an Intel card and I could only get external monitors to behave properly connecting to a DVI port, HDMI and Displayports did not work well on that one.

5 seconds here also after opening and closing for missing texture. Tried an old WC with lines I had, 295428 surfaces, 8.2 seconds. Tracked resources-very little GPU used-max 45%, 17% of GPU memory. OTOH CPU used all cores between 60 and 86% depending, average looks in the 70% range. memory and disk negligible.

If the shared drive is a network drive you may find useful information here. offline folders sync Note toward the end they mention their own (Aomi, which was included with my WD mycloud but have not needed so can't say if any God. ) additional software which has extra features to avoid conflicts. Worth a look.

Shows up with whatever you name it in the description so yes can call out LV but there is not an option to designate the symbol for LV. Can add a simple macro to an OIP to read out the total length if need be. Forgot to mention: After creating symbol you still have to bring it back in (replace from library is not available for the original) but can use centering option before deleting the original, then you need to connect to it. Once converted to a symbol you can no longer drag the ends to change the length. Instead you need to use the DBX. Can't use plan or temp dimensions to change length of either one. Dimension will snap to the center if it's converted to a symbol, to the ends if made using the rope light tool. If rendering matters you will also have to change the light data. Once converted the symbol can be copied and rotated to use vertically. All reasons why I just made a fistful to use as needed (the electrician prefer fixed plug and play units, they really dislike playing with the tape)

The symbol origins are not set to allow them to go into a cabinet. You need to make a copy of it-either place in the plan OR copy and paste to user library. Open symbol, change the Y origin. If in plan add to library (if copied to the user library you can change it once it is there) Appliance placement adjusted.zip

If I don't tell them it's low voltage they run 110 tails to each location, have had that even when LV was shown (because he didn't like LV). I just think the job is to draw what's supposed to be, 110v, 220v, LV. If you don't want to bother you can just draw the light, select, convert to symbol-electric, optons:light, switched. Done, it will now connect, no extra lights or layers.

I don't know of a rope or strip light that uses line voltage AND I've alter the actual light properties so they work better in renderings. I ended up making them to sizes which is how I order/specify them nowadays (actual rope lights belong in another century ;-> then converting to an electric symbol-options switched. Then can connect them as needed but I connect to a transformer and change the line between it and the light to LV.

I generally keep auto fillers off but if you must: place a filler or cabinet next to it needs to be 3" wide, no countertop; 1/16 h and 1/16 d so it doesn't interfere with room moldings. You can hide it by A- set it on a new hidden layer with line style set to invisible (hides it in all views), B -make materials all match the baseboard (hides in all 3D views except glass) C- set all materials to opening no material (hides in Standard and PBR) D-some combination of those

Had a play with it. Cut down on the normal map which is emphasizing the dark part of the text in the image. Had a play with adjusting materials of the ceiling lights and the ceiling. Then lighting and sun. Not as good as the PBR guys but better. Included two PBR cameras with different settings for lights and sun but same material definitions. So long as it is an OTR (over the range micro) you can. Actually it was the range and that comment that got me interested in this. The one pictured is not since it isn't the full width of the range. I still avoid them as a safety hazard (spilling hot liquids when removing at that height) and work flow bottleneck (second person can't get at micro when the cook is there). There is no landing or clearance to the side of the range. NKBA guidelines are minimum 12" so you can turn a pot handle out and not have it over a burner. All appliance mfg list minimum to sides-usually 5 or 6" to combustible. In these parts inspectors use the mfg specs for code. Lastly there why bump up the cabinet above? Orphanos Foundation Renovations adj.zip

Way to go,ets easier with practice. Tip for getting used to new version : the PDF of the Reference Manual lists "what's new ". Each new feature listing has link to its page in the manual. Might want to get both X 10 & 11 manuals since there's been a lot. I still use that section

That meeting was a year ago. A partial video is posted above as is a zip folder with files from it. There's other useful things in this section and symbols. May go back as much as 3 years. Look around.

Took a look around and came across this which has a couple of things worth looking into. https://visser.io/2016/04/fix-for-stuttering-lag-in-bluetooth-mouse-on-windows-10/ I also so one post that the issue was caused by heat throttling the CPU which can happen on tablets. I'd check that too.

Not the mouse driver, the bluetooth driver(s) are where the issue has been.

Are you on Windows 10 build 1903? is is recentt update? or did you get another Win update recently? There was a known issue with Bluetooth with the update and or maybe they tried to fix that and messed yours up? Just a thought-might try to roll back driver instead of update.

I"m not one of the macro gurus mentioned above (do look for posts by them elsewhere) but have been going through the learning. I've tried a number of things what works for me may not work for you or the reverse. Go through the Ruby Tutorial in Chief-more than once and occasionally after. There is also some useful info in the current Reference Manual. Look at macros posted on the forum and try to understand them. Test parts in the Text macro management console. There are a lot of resources on the web: pdf books, cheat sheets, and what I call Ruby Central I like physical paper books but found very few useful beginners books-some are positively useless."Ruby Programming For Beginners -The Simple Guide to Learning Ruby Programming language Fast!" is small, intimidating and OK Forget about fast-go slow. Learn to enjoy the expression "Evaluation Error" Do small things first (maybe for a long while) Get a language aware text editor (I use Notepad ++, think Joe has a better one?) Do NOT install Ruby on your machine-it will only confuse you. A great deal of what is written applies only to Ruby on your machine and not in Chief-skip those parts. The one book I found that really useful for me is "The Well Grounded Rubyist" which can be had in a bundle combining a physical book (Pbook) and digital formats if you get it fromt he publisher (Manning) Different folks have different styles of working with Ruby some will make more sense to you than others. Don't let it bother you if you don't get what one person offers that is different from what another offers. There are often several ways to get something done in Ruby. I've had some time with several people-sometimes it's helped a little, sometimes not so much. (Think it's how I'm put together). YMMV IF it's really important pay one of the folks who does this to do it for you. Most of what I do is simple so I can now manage. The few things that are complicated, difficult are not important to me at the moment so I'm just fitting them in somewhere along the way (charity work if you will) Above all be patient.

Auto interior dimension tool is not listed there in Premier either but I'd be surprised if you don't have it in Interiors. Did you check Help? reference manual? look in your dimension defaults-is it listed there? if it is AND you don't have the icon pictured on the toolbar you can add it (look in help on how) Welcome aboard- take some time to fil in your signature-makes it easier for people to help. Be sure to download the PDF of the reference manual. It's a great resource, good bed time reading :)

I didn't notice that since I often check here on my phone which doesn't show sigs and I tend to assume folks are up to date. Didn't' see that you were on X9 until I redid it in X10. Ah well. Sorry I only have 9 on my 2 in 1 and likely taking it off of there. In any case since I went ahead with it FWIW you can ease into new things in X11 -worth the time and effort IMO. X10 2 hinge.plan

AFAIK cabinets are hard wired to have 3 hinges if the height is greater than 39" (many makers have 3 at 39") To change it visually you need a door symbol with two hinges and no knob or handle. Set cabinet to have hidden hinges. The bounding box and origin need to be adjusted. Made this one from a 15" cabinet. When turning into a symbol the bounding box wants to be 15 5/8 which includes the hinge. Changed BB to 15" then offset the X origin by 5/16 to center the box on the door, set the stretch zones so rails, stiles and hinges don't change when resizing. For some reason that I don't understand it needs to be made with hinges on the right to work properly. (Open Symbol and see what's going on, then go to videos or reference manual for more on symbols) IF you need to change the hing quantity in the material list that gets done in the components tab. I included a simple macro that does that. It's in the two cabinets on the far left in the plan (not in the picture) one of which I set to default. You can do something similar to change the notation for hidden hinge if need be but only if you are serioulsy using the ML. Two hinge door.plan

It will resize correctly up to the width you made it before converting to a symbol...(so long as you have not changed the bounding box). In image attached all have drawer box made at 48" wide EXCEPT for the one on the right which has a drawer box made at 36" wide. Learning to create and manipulate symbols takes some time and practice. There is a video or two. Another good resource is the user manual. I printed out all relevant pages from the user manual (maybe 6 pgs) and kept them handy. There are still things I either forget or fool me once in a while so even then there can be trial and error as you try more advanced things. Suggest doing some reading and download some symbols from here and open them (the symbol not just the item) to see how others have done things. Something I use when fiddling with symbols is to alter the name when adding them to the library so that all versions end up at the top of the list. That way it is easier to change them out in situations where it must be done from the DBX. To move a library item to the top of the list add some spaces or underscore to the front of the name i.e " 1 Drawerbox", " 2 Drawerbox", etc or "___1DRWbx"... Sometimes you can change a symbol by dragging it onto an object in a 3D, like a cabinet door, view which is very fast. The naming trick still helps there. BTW-helps us to help if you fill out your signature and often post the plan.

I like that a lot. Michaels trick with the text box is nice, didn't know that one. Joe that doesn't work, the block is correct but the space is at the front of it, that's where we started. One thing that does work (in part) is to rotate the symbol 180 degrees and resize the bounding box. The depth of the box only changes towards the front. That can give you the offset from the wall but requires rotating the symbol after placement. The other problem is if you are using a schedule the dimensions read the size of the bounding box not the object. (Plan attached) I usually do this sort of thing with a symbol and another object (no material, and/or sunk into the floor) as an architectural block kept in the library) For instance I use that Do that a lot for cabinet fillers for instance so they read correct depth in schedule and don't confuse the installers. washer-dryer_RVS.plan

Attached- inserted cad block from your symbol in to the plan, copied the polyline and positioned it relative to the block. Assinged it a blank line stile, exploded the existing block, then blocked it all together and assigned to the symbol. Not sure why the outline is showing so would need to fiddle a little further with that to see what needs to be done to make the Pline not show as part of the symbol. Likely would place a toilet in plan, then the block from it so I could examine how that is done. It's a start anyway. washer-dryer.plan

You only need an appliance opening IF your drawer box has a drawer head on it. IF you created a drawer box that just goes inside the cabinet but uses the cabinets drawer front then-1) it must defined as a fixture 2) you specify it in the front/sides/back tab of the drawer itself

Polyline-fill grid 12" x 12" or whatever, transparent background, line color to suit.

The vid I posted is not of the meeting it was made prior for use during it. The vid from the meeting was something like 125 MB and I'd figured out a that there was better way to do all this the day before the meeting so things were a little choppy.