MarkMc

The beads are door symbols that started out as 3D molding lines though they could more easily be started as molding lines and rotated when converting to a symbol. The chamfers are also door symbols but those where made using solids, polyline solids and boolean operations (subtraction, union mostly). Those symbols are always used as "side panel inset" in varying configurations. The symbols are included so you can not only use them but "OPEN SYMBOL" and examine all of the settings to get an understanding of what they are doing for the symbols placement and sizing. Overall a worthwhile learning exercise IMO. There is also a set of beaded cabinets elsewhere on the forum. I use two types- one for brands where you order the cabinet at it's final width and specify the opening sizes; the other for the more common situation where you order individual cabinets ad line items and ask that they be combined and call out the final overall width. In the case of the latter the ones I made are meant to overalp one another and still look correct. I don't remember if I included both. You only need the second type if you are using a schedule to create a cabinet order. In both cases they are a bit problematic to dimension if you need to use cad detail from view to make drawings for submission since there are so many extra lines involved. Beaded inset cabinets There should be enough in the libraries supplied that you can do whatever you need to with what is there. You will need to open the cabinet DBX to get an understanding of what is used where. Overall the cabinets can be configured using split-either horizontal or vertical -on a regular door or drawer item. They will also accept change to the default door/drawer without affecting the beading. In short everything you need to work with these is supplied along with some useful things to learn from, albeit the hard way. I've been a little surprised over the years how little interest they have gotten. Recently someone suggested Chief include a way to just click and make this happen. I don't think they realize how complicated that could be (and how little interest has been in these despite the fact that even doing what I've done is not possible in competing kitchen software last I knew) I suppose if CA ever asked I'd do a video but other than that I simply dislike videos and think in the long run you learn more working for it. Good luck with it. If AFTER you have tried to work with them for a while and have SPECIFIC questions or problems post over in the QA section and we'll help you out.

Be sure automatic fillers are turned off. If on it will appear as if the cabinet is against him wall. But 2" isn't enough room to paint.

Here's two very slight difference in the pillow. Plan to use making one with molding profiles. If making a new symbol need to rotate it to vertical while converting and make sure you use stretch planes. I went through that with a client not long ago Even though I knew what she meant sort of, it was supposed to be a specific door from a specific mfg-so why not send me a picture, cad, the name, something-I'm thinking come on your a pro right-act like one. (had a run of this kind of be Karnac nonsense so just ranting) Lightholder Pillow door.plan Added after thinking a minute- you may be awarre but just in case be careful designing with the deeper pillow doors. It's possible to end up in a situation where they run when opening (that's one I learned when a co-worker was learning it the hard way)

Material type is "air gap" as you suggested in first post. Try it on any symbol besides the roof

When I saw P's post last night ran downstairs to check it out. It only works in this application, alas the other objects I tested are the same as always.

The door symbols that are placed loose in the plan are not meant to be floated on the cabinet. They are used as part of the cabinet. IT is set so that the height will not change. It is also set so that the top of the door extends up to what would be the normal height of a door on that cabinet when placed in the lowest face item. That is done by moving the Z origin AND setting the Z stretch plane outside the bounding box. IT WILL however resize in width along with the cabinet so there is no need to float it. To see what settings are used select the door symbols I placed in the plan, right click and select OPEN SYMBOL do not select Open Object. Study the origin and the stretch planes. . Also open the cabinet DBX to see how the face items are configured to understand how to get around the problem you're running into. If you need to do the same thing on a different height cabinet you need a new symbol so it is useful to understand the settings and how to create the symbol. Understanding symbol manipulation can be very useful with cabinets I would suggest- 1)-download the PDF of the current reference manual. Go to section Symbol Specification Dialog pg 963, then to Editing Custom Symbols pgs 976-980. I use the bookmarks/index to get around instead of all the bookmarks listed. 2) Print out the section Editing Custom Symols-in particular the section on stretch planes. I kept copies of these pages handy for a very long time while learning how to deal with these things. 3) Once you have a handle on some of this head over to the Symbols and the Tips sections of the forum and rummage around for symbols and ideas that have been posted in the past. Download a couple and investigate what is going on with them.

Tip- what I do. A, print out the list of new features, keep handy. Check off, make notes as you get to them. B- download current reference manual, go to bookmark for what's new, a few pages in after migration information (useful) starts the list of features (I add a bookmark to that). For every new feature there is a hyperlink to that section of the manual to get more detail. Very useful

Since X11 you no longer need to edit the pattern and texture offset separately. In the pattern tab just check off the sync option. IF you have already messed with the sync on one it's best to replace the texture from the library. I've had trouble when I forgot to start fresh with sync checked. BUT I've also had issue with some textures that had different setting to begin with. You want to start with both pattern and texture at 0, 0 AND both the same size (24, 24 or whatever) It might be possible to reset both to the original but again I"ve had trouble so just replace and check. I always toggle between standard and vector view to check before I start messing with the offsets (a lot of ID clients who want tile renders AND layouts).

I placed the lights before drawing the ceiling grid. I altered the CAD block of the lights to have a fill. You only need to get a couple correct for control once you work out the location. For this one renders were important so after placing the lights I offset the ceiling material until it matched the lights. Note if you need that you need a new mateial per room with correct offset. Once your control lights are in make a room polyline, fill style grid 24 x 24, offset until it matches the lights (note my 24 x 48 are off). The fill for the CAD block was for the 24 x 48 lights to cover the grid. Then add any other lights. I don't bother with the edge molding unless needed for hi def rendering (in a smaller space...even then, seriously?) add it to the room DBX. or worst case a room molding pline. If you have to dimension to more than the lights a cad line or point here an there should do it, or a cad detail from view copied back in place hold position, lock layer.

Early for me too, I didn't realize a symbol mod was needed till I saw your post

Greg-why use psolid when shelves are automatic? Better to learn to deal with a few door symbols (especially for a KD). Attached plan has door symbols forced to remain specific size-everything else is just in the cabinet DBX. The other cabinet can just be done in the cabinet DBX as is. IF those notched shelves are wanted then draw one as a psolid and convert to a symbol. Save them all to library so can be used in the future. (KDs tend to do a lot use certain items repeatedly ) Tall broom.plan

Welcome aboard. What you're asking is very basic, I suggest using some of the training and help resources first to get started.here are a lot of options-videos, help file, reference manual. You could : go to the Getting Started Resources section here on the forum place a cabinet into a plan, double click to open it, press the F1 key or click "Help" Just click Help and pick one of the resources listed, then look up cabinets download the PDF of the reference manual A short investment in time at the beginning pays big dividends in the long run. I found it worthwhile to have new people who worked for me take a short on line class from Chief, even take them myself still on occasion. Your experience with the software will be better if you have a good foundation in the basics. When you get stuck after trying something come here. Search to see what is already posted, be sure to also look in tips and symbols sections as well as the Q & A). Post a specific question and tell us what you tried (post an image of what you did, and or a plan) and what's not working. Be sure to read: How to get good answers when you ask questions Folks will also ask you to complete your signature and include computer information and version you are using.

Do you have grid turned on in your PDF viewer? "Colors Panel” on page 112. Reference Grid The Reference Grid is an on-screen grid composed of regular squares that can be used to convey a sense of scale while drawing. It does not print.. " reference manual.

Took a look, different. Near as I can tell all of the dwg files are 2D which will not make a symbol if that is what you are after. AFAIK there is no way to convert Revit symbols without having Revit (if anyone knows I'd love to hear?) Rummaging around there is one file zip file with a few 3DS files in it. IF any of those are what you are after they work. The file is 3form_shapes_files_3ds_format.zip. What it has in it: For any of the others you would have to start with something 2D and make a symbol from that. IF you have CAD details in Interiors (I know you don't have detail from view)-would be CAD, CAD detail management-new. You can bring in a 2D dwg and start from that. Bit of work though.

Assuming you mean when the large monitor is connected to the laptop? that would indicate that the monitor is running off the Intel Card. On some laptops it is not possible to connect an external to the dedicated video card, it often depends on what the port you are using is attached to internally. FWIW I ran the test on a 27" 3k BenQ connected by displayport but my Sager does not have an Intel card. My last Sager had an Intel card and I could only get external monitors to behave properly connecting to a DVI port, HDMI and Displayports did not work well on that one.

5 seconds here also after opening and closing for missing texture. Tried an old WC with lines I had, 295428 surfaces, 8.2 seconds. Tracked resources-very little GPU used-max 45%, 17% of GPU memory. OTOH CPU used all cores between 60 and 86% depending, average looks in the 70% range. memory and disk negligible.

If the shared drive is a network drive you may find useful information here. offline folders sync Note toward the end they mention their own (Aomi, which was included with my WD mycloud but have not needed so can't say if any God. ) additional software which has extra features to avoid conflicts. Worth a look.

Shows up with whatever you name it in the description so yes can call out LV but there is not an option to designate the symbol for LV. Can add a simple macro to an OIP to read out the total length if need be. Forgot to mention: After creating symbol you still have to bring it back in (replace from library is not available for the original) but can use centering option before deleting the original, then you need to connect to it. Once converted to a symbol you can no longer drag the ends to change the length. Instead you need to use the DBX. Can't use plan or temp dimensions to change length of either one. Dimension will snap to the center if it's converted to a symbol, to the ends if made using the rope light tool. If rendering matters you will also have to change the light data. Once converted the symbol can be copied and rotated to use vertically. All reasons why I just made a fistful to use as needed (the electrician prefer fixed plug and play units, they really dislike playing with the tape)

The symbol origins are not set to allow them to go into a cabinet. You need to make a copy of it-either place in the plan OR copy and paste to user library. Open symbol, change the Y origin. If in plan add to library (if copied to the user library you can change it once it is there) Appliance placement adjusted.zip

If I don't tell them it's low voltage they run 110 tails to each location, have had that even when LV was shown (because he didn't like LV). I just think the job is to draw what's supposed to be, 110v, 220v, LV. If you don't want to bother you can just draw the light, select, convert to symbol-electric, optons:light, switched. Done, it will now connect, no extra lights or layers.

I don't know of a rope or strip light that uses line voltage AND I've alter the actual light properties so they work better in renderings. I ended up making them to sizes which is how I order/specify them nowadays (actual rope lights belong in another century ;-> then converting to an electric symbol-options switched. Then can connect them as needed but I connect to a transformer and change the line between it and the light to LV.

I generally keep auto fillers off but if you must: place a filler or cabinet next to it needs to be 3" wide, no countertop; 1/16 h and 1/16 d so it doesn't interfere with room moldings. You can hide it by A- set it on a new hidden layer with line style set to invisible (hides it in all views), B -make materials all match the baseboard (hides in all 3D views except glass) C- set all materials to opening no material (hides in Standard and PBR) D-some combination of those

Had a play with it. Cut down on the normal map which is emphasizing the dark part of the text in the image. Had a play with adjusting materials of the ceiling lights and the ceiling. Then lighting and sun. Not as good as the PBR guys but better. Included two PBR cameras with different settings for lights and sun but same material definitions. So long as it is an OTR (over the range micro) you can. Actually it was the range and that comment that got me interested in this. The one pictured is not since it isn't the full width of the range. I still avoid them as a safety hazard (spilling hot liquids when removing at that height) and work flow bottleneck (second person can't get at micro when the cook is there). There is no landing or clearance to the side of the range. NKBA guidelines are minimum 12" so you can turn a pot handle out and not have it over a burner. All appliance mfg list minimum to sides-usually 5 or 6" to combustible. In these parts inspectors use the mfg specs for code. Lastly there why bump up the cabinet above? Orphanos Foundation Renovations adj.zip