MarkMc

Well match properties using Rooms doesn't allow you to change the structure. I marquis select the walls which get most if not all so pretty easy.

True but you can turn the floor into one room by temporarily changing all partition walls no room definition, make your change then make put back room definition.

You had me curious, 50% savings would add a another reason for me to get a desktop over a laptop and be able to do so sooner than I plan. So I tried two versions- both 9700k. A) Digital Storm base config at $1924 -few upgrades made it $2300; identical on Partspicker was $1902-savings $375 or 18% B) more upgrades- GPU, Optane ssd to replace the Samsung 970 Evo Pro, power supply, MOBO, cooling, DS $3800, PP $2900-savings $900 or 25% Almost a grand on the high end system is attractive. Aside from assembling it yourself, you give up (or do yourself) stress test, lifetime tech support, 3 years labor and 1 yr parts, OS installed, and the DS system has both processors overclocked and checked at NC on either version. Looks like it's a balance between hourly rate and cost savings. Pretty sure I could do it but I doubt that I could: unpack,sort everything (does PP send along a diagram for novices), plan it out, assemble it, install the OS, overclock, and check everything in a day. Likely those with experience could. Otherwise I guess if you just enjoy doing it, or want to learn. (or don't have enough regular work :)

I was surprised to find that what I want costs about the same between Digital Storm desktop and an HID laptop. Heat will be better but then I've not had issues with the Sager. Most laptops are coming with a different RTX card than what goes into desktops, there are a few exceptions.

The Dell offers the current GPU but slower RAM, no name SSD, lesser Mobo and only last gen CPU; not really a deal to me. If I were budgeting I'd sooner have newer pipeline and settle for last gen GPU since until software makes use of RTX features. Which is likely after the next generation is out and you'll have a base system that will keep up. I said "considering "

I've been considering moving to a desktop in the next year and had my eye on the mid tower Slade from Digital Storm Can be configured close in price to the Dell or there are more options and generally better components: available 9th gen CPU, faster ram, better MOBO standard, better SSDs ( SSD M.2 (500GB Samsung 970 EVO) (NVM Express) standard, power and cooling options. In the long run you might spend a bit more-if and how much you can decide. Since all those options can be daunting you can either fill out a form to email for advice or call and talk to a human for help with configuration. Worth a look anyway, I mean if you're gonna keep this one for seven years might as well investigate a little :)

Not sure what you have going on without playing with symbol and settlings. Possible you need a left and a right, possibly something else. So play with it

You'll need a different symbol with different origin size and stretch planes

I've used this to with odd newel spacings, tried it two ways. Either may be easier than one post at a time (still a workaround though). In one case-the long run of posts is an open railing, set as post to rail, no top or bottom rail, Structure is baloon through ceiling, and height set to go as far as needed. The balusters in that are a symbol. The second one, which I like better-first make the tall posts as above, convert to symbol, then replace that with the side rail. In both cases the side rails are No Post. What I like about that is it's easier to match the correct height and spacing for the posts to whatever you want. Still a workaround. posts.plan

I was skeptical that catalogs don't update. I had quickly checked in windows explorer for modification dates of libraries which indicated that they did update. I didn't manage to check much further but in the course of answering about the Silestone catalog I found that my X10 library is different than the X11. AND installing a new one in either gave made no change to it. Further, I save all library files on my computer before installing them. The newest Silestone catalog I have was downloaded August of 2016 which means that the X11 catalog updated itself. So I'd be double checking the information with support before redoing all the catalogs (unless like Mick you have renamed them).

Bennie Moore was last updated December 2018, Silestone was updated this past February and that is in X11 catalog it is NOT in my X10 catalog. The X11 file is 30 MB while the X10 is only 12. It may be that the X11 catalog will not install in X10, check with support before purchasing the catalog.

If you are using a Bilco door on it there are some threads with symbols on the forum, one cuts the terrain and has stairs, just add a doorway- real easy. The other way I've done it is with a terrain hole and retaining walls and make stairs. With that one you have to adjust the retaining walls in section.

Thought about it a bit. Floor 1 is always at 0", can't lower or raise the floor. You can however alter a room. So possibly make floor 1 a single room and move that in room DBX, then floor below in floor dbx?

Did not try your plan, not a lot of time so just made a simple 2 story with foundation. Insert new floor 36" high below first floor, went to top floor added 36, second floor added 36, first floor-no ceiling no floor, set floor below to minus 36 and ceiling to 0. Let it settle, then delete that floor. Worked on test.

I tried a couple of things the only thing that works on the existing is adjusting all floors. I'd think adjusting terrain individually is out of the question. TM move did not work for either the building or the terrain. Thought you need to move it a few times to see where? Setting plan default snap distance to a foot or two allows raising and lowering the symbol in elevation quick, drag in or 3D. I'd use the symbol to get and mark site location then move the building in plan-then the fun begins adjusting all the floor heights of each building. First one will you could likely do with defaults, second one could be interesting. Or take the short way out and use the plan with symbols where you need to show terrain and leave the buildings alone? New reference sets may help with that. Edit- if you need good 3D with terrain and building then make a second symbol that has detail-and replace from library

Just tested one making a shell as simple as possible converted to a symbol (exterior fixture). Performance was good-original model I used was not well developed, textures minimal, footprint 1600 s ft, terrain with a few slopes-YMMV.

Mick is correct, importing a symbol as a cabinet doesn't behave like a native cabinet. It's a last resort, can't remember how last time I bothered. Cut lists are only needed if making cabinets, there is other software suited to that (not something Chief should bother with IMO) OTOH you can readily get appropriate drawings of custom configured cabinets if needed to send to a maker using "Detail from view" combined with an annoset/layerset specific to the purpose.

This is the correct place to ask. However I thought it useful to have the answer in tips so I put it over there for you.

You were right to ask the question over in the Q & A section, this is for tips on how to not for questions. That said I thought it was such a good question when I saw it over there I decided to answer it over here. Setting up a cabinet brand library This is how I have do it. My goal is to maximize productivity when working and to get everything that is needed into a cabinet shedule. 1-Determine the type of cabinets you use the most and include those that have accessories or major modifications. You want to end up with about 2 dozen or so cabinets. You can add to it as you go but this part is really worth sitting down and doing. Keep a plan file with 4 walls and all of the cabinets you make in it. 2-Make most of the cabinets 15” wide while it appears that you won’t get a “won’t fit” message as of X11 it’s still good practice. There are exceptions-Fridge, Oven, maybe a wide drawer base, micro cabinets. Make things like trash pullouts the minimum size your maker allows. 3-Don’t overlook parts-things like fridge panels, shelves etc. While we can now include partitions and shelves in the cabinet schedule I still make them from cabinets since it allows more control (you can’t add a panel to the side of a partition) For millwork and molding go to the end. 4-Change the label for each cabinet to match the brands nomenclature. I’ve messed around with macros for labels but I find that with all of the cabinet hacking I do the macros often become unusable. It’s just as easy to have the labels in place. That said you label should include macros for the sizes needed in the final label -such as W %width%%height% NOTE that there are macros around on the forum that will format dimensions to something better than the ones from the drop down list under “Object Specific” I have macros that read to 1/16ths, 1/8ths, inches, and 3” increments. What you use depends on what the maker requires. (order cabinet in 3” increments then specify reduce width would use the 3” macro) 5-Learn about the custom object information fields (located in the schedule defaults) you are going to want to create some of those and use them. Other nomenclature that I like to have listed would be typical mods for a style of cabinet. It is easier to delete nomenclature than to go around typeing it. You may want to use the built in Code field for modification macros which may or may not help if you get around to an item list. Because of how I hack cabinets I have OIP filed for door swing and cabinet sides (keep the names of OIP fields short but understandable) Example-I always flush finish exposed sides of cabinets so every cabinet in the library lists both left and right options for that as a mod. 6-CRITICAL-you want everything possible in the cabinets set to use default. A few things won’t work that way-I for instance you use a different style for larger drawers than smaller ones you can’t set that as a default (yet), the top row height of drawers are not available as a default. Go through the DBX and learn what they are. The best way is to set the defaults for the file your working in-make a few cabinets, then change the defaults and see what happens to your cabinets. Do not overlook the accessories tab. A note about material defaults-you want to use the Defaults Materials to change door style and cabinet materials. Unfortunately there is also a default material in the cabinet defaults that will override that setting-until you add a new door which will follow the Default Materials instead (PIA that shouldn’t be but explore it so you understand it until they change it….some day) NOTE_ I often set these all to a special layer such as Base Cabinet 2, Wall Cabinet 2 7- Once you have all the cabinet to your liking you need to add them-one at a time. IF your user library is not tidy, IOW if you have stufff floating in ther that is not in a folder, make a new folder and put all of the floating stuff into it. You want your new cabinets to be the only things floating in the user library. Now -First open the cabinet and copy the label, close, add to library (is use a keyboard shortcut for that), immediately hit the F2 key (for rename since the newly added cabinet is highlighted) then ctrl +v (to paste the label you copied). Work your way around the plan. I usually have a schedule in the plan and order it so I can keep track of which cabinets I’ve added and have a final count. After all of the cabinets are in place, make a new folder-something like “ _brandX” (the spaces and underscore are used to postion the folder to the top of the tree) Then select ALL of the new cabinets, copy, go to the folder and paste. Don’t cut in case you made a mistake or missed something. Check the quantity in the folder against the list of floaters. IF they match delete the floaters. 8-Using the new library. I design enitirely with standard generic cabinets from the build menu.(hotkeys for each type) and just keep track of the sizes I want along with a mental note of what will go where. Once the layout is done then I go around and use replace from library (also a hotkey) One at a time. After all are swapped out fro the library I configure any that need alterations-if those are important they can get added to the library. IF they are minor or unsual I will add them to a project specific folder instead of my cabinet brand folder. Now is a good time to reorder the schedule numbering and double check the modifications listed. (multiple monitors help here-use “Open Row Object” from the schedule to make changes. Door styles-IF your brand is not supported by Chief don’t fret. Door symbols are easy to make. At some point you will end up with a collection of parts for doing this which is really handy if you work with a truly custom brand. Search in both the Symbols and the Tips forum-I’ve posted how to and sample plans in the past. Always set your new custom doors style material to “Use default” prior to adding it to your library. Millwork and other-you can include anything in a cabinet schedule and list the correct size. Millwork,corbels, range hoods, even a car :) To get an item into the cabinet schedule you first turn it into a cabinet door symbol. You will need to fiddle with this and learn about symbol origins and strecth zone, planes and the like. Once it is a door symbol you can then use it on a cabinet as a side panel inset. Size the cabinet to be what the schedule should read. A sample plan is included but you can find more info seaching Tips forum and the like. Moldings-this one gets to be tricky. I’ve recently become willing to design with moldings include in the cabinet DBX-BUT rough design ONLY. I use molding lines for moldings (until Chief gives us control of the side overhand on cabinets). I keep them in a warehouse plan but have taken to also using the new stacked modling feature. My molding lines label includes a macro that calculates how many stick need to be ordered based on total run and number of cuts. Problem with that is they don’t end up in the schedule. Now Chief has added moldings to the compnonent list-hence the material list BUT there is no way to get a total for order from that into a schedule. SO- I have architectural blocks of various individual modlings in 8 ft lengths with a molding label and sized to match the molding, (and some in 10 ft lengths). Once everything is done and ready to order I drop those into a plan from my library. They are set to sit below the floor (so careful if you are also doing any structural work). If I need 5 pieces of crown I copy in place 4 times to get a total of 5. This works best if you have the schedule set to group items that are the same BUT that is not good for cabinets (no mfg I know of allows you to order multiples of a cabinet except maybe truck load brands). To get around that if you have identical cabinets in the schedule add a different something to an OIP field that is included in the schedule-it can be just an extra space at the front. Arch blocks also work for miscellaneous objects like touch up kits, extra hardware etc. just bury them in the floor. The one issue with arch blocks is that the dimensions in the schedule are going to read according to the items placement in a cartesian plane NOT on the size you set the object. Sample included in plan. Corbels in schedule.plan

On the job I had it was the foundation level that had rooms. Issue was house is on steep slope and wanted to add another room below the foundation level (as a foundation) that overlapped an existing room on the current foundation level that is being demo'd and expanded. I'm pretty happy with how inserting a floor worked, only a little clean up (about the same as I found testing it on yours). I'm not convinced that using level 1 is wise but don't know yet the pros and cons. Will see when I get the revisions and have to go to docs. As a general rule if I can work within the prescribed parameter of the program I prefer that. Too many times have found a gotcha late in the game when mucking around.

No idea what's going on, works for me.

- then account for the thickness of the drawer sides?. I gave you my opinion.. to me it makes no sense to build it (with or without drawer sides-waste of money and function) so why show it. If you really want to show it make the symbol with the door and corbel on it-lock the dimensions and change the origins then place it as a rollout shelf instead.

I turned snaps off in both, resized cabinet to 6" -may have changed minimum cabinet size or size increments but don't think I did that until I tried to get something narrower than 6". I wouldn't.

You have grid snaps turned on in cabinet default and in plan, making the one cabinet 5-3/4" instead of 6" (I never use grid snaps working with cabinets). At 6" it shows back up. It appears 6" is minimum which makes sense to me. The narrowest manufactured PO that go into a cabinet mfg is 4-1/2" (and that has glides on one side only). In wood the narrowest is 5", below that they are filler pullouts. Sure maybe someone could make something narrower to fit into a cabinet box but why.