MarkMc

I somehow use photos from the actual site set as billboards outside windows and doors. Bit more work and take extra photos to be able to adjust more easily. Also use the same technique on remodel if an adjacent room is nicely done, putting billboard in doorway with photo of that room.

The old fashioned way is auxiliary views-using 90 degree projection lines from a single edge. These were done using detail from view, pasting extra views in, drawing projection lines after change the plan angle defaults to match the roof pitch in degrees. Planes skewed in two directions can also be done just take more work. I went and made a polyline to match, pasted back into plan, converted to p solid, then to symbol, rotated symbol-just to check against the model. Auxil view.plan

I disagree. Use what Eric and Steve suggest. Dimensions to those things that snaps work for normally and use detail from view, paste and hold position for things you can't snap to. Use a noticeable color for the detail and turn it off when need be, turn it back on to check before final. It can be redone in minutes if need be as long as you have good annosets/layer set/ dimension defaults. Been using that for years now without issue. IF and when I feel the need to use points they are always intended to be temporary so I use those since they are more noticeable and easier to delete. There are times in elevation when you can't get a snap to something that should accept one. Best options are move it's view group forward, temporarily move toward the camera, temporarily -copy and delete object blocking it, pull dime, paste and hold position to put the object back. Day to day dimensions in kitchens I have a group of annosets. Some for plan views some for elevation (wall, base, counter, fixture centers, room). A few weeks ago showed a newer client who was using points how to use them. He said it saves him hours.

I always include a separate countertop only drawing which can be used for quotes. I also always show aisle, counter to counter, dimensions since that is what NKBA guidelines us. Far too many drawings come across my desk that have aisles dimensioned cabinet to cabinet and don't take overhangs into account (and often wouldn't meet guidelines with zero overhangs.). I also supply box to box dimensions either noted or in a separate plan view specific for installers.

Industry standard is cabinets are dimensioned to the box NOT to the door. If I ordered 25" deep cabinets from anyone I've ever dealt with they would either give me a 25" deep box or on a good day call me to check. I have never dimensioned to door fronts and not once had a problem with that. I do go to great lengths to be clear though... provide general notes to the installer and maker. Note it there. Even if it is a standard depth for the maker, for instance most often I have 13 to 14" deep wall cabinets. While these are standard for my makers they may also make some standard 12" deep wall cabinets so the wall cabinet depth is always noted. I don't want the wrong person processing my order sending me inset cabinets that are 12" deep. I want the installer to be aware they are not dealing with 12" deep cabinets One thing I have found is the best way to avoid mistakes is to-draw and dimension it AND to note it. (and tell installer verbally)-Redundancy prevents issues. IF for some reason the makers don't follow industry standard I would simply talk to them and ask what works for them, then do it. IF you really must dimension to the faces I would just set a CAD line and snap to that. (I never ever use point to point dimensions and don't allow my clients to either, just too risky IMO. There is also generally somewhere on order forms to call out global items that you are doing that may not be typical-use it or make a place. Then note on the plan something like "This view dimensioned to cabinet box and sheet rock" or whatever they understand (again ask them). For the electrician I supply an electrical plan with what has been decided with the client. I also always tell them specifically (in person) how far from the wall I want the lights placed. Too often they want to put them too close to the wall cabinets, run into the crown or cause glare on the faces-OR they put them too far back creating a shadow when someone wants to work at the counter. Supply an electrical plan realizing that the side to side placement of recessed cans may need to be compromised to avoid joists (a good time to use "Ctr" or "Eq"; better yet get a stud finder and locate the joists :) I like to have recess lights placed to fall directly over someones head when they are working at the counter (26- 30") to 32" from the wall (depending on joist location if parallel) to avoid shadows. Also for the electrician-whenever possible I go over preferred switching locations with clients so they don't have to. Then discuss with the electrician-this avoids problems and usually saves the electrician time, makes them happy, and avoids reworks... so long as when they say "switch can't go here" or "that's a lot of extra work to run" you listen and take it back to the client.

That's what I thought, choices are as noted, make two piece hinge symbol or two door symbols.

Guessing (it helps when you post a plan or part of one) that you made the hinges as part of the door symbol, correct? Two options. 1- make the hinge in two parts- cup on the door and the rest inside the cabinet as the hinge. Might take a little fiddling to get the depth to line up, height should be easy. (until you run into a three hinge cabinet that you want to have two. Other option is using layersets one for door closed another for door open; different doors on different layersets. Have done that with complicated cabinets. That's easiest if you set the open door symbol so that it's open WITHOUT having the DBX open it. You want to only change sets.

Attached zip with my current hotkeys. They are always evolving so I keep a spreadsheet with the current list (also included). I have a Windows keyboard shortcut to that sheet for the times I forget. I haven't updated the second two sheets in a while so don't count on them, left them for reference, the first sheet should be accurate. I used the other two sheets when I first set the keys up to help and printed the color one out for reference. I'm right handed and try to set the most common keys to be one handed with left hand and to keep things in some grouping I could remember. I now use two keyboards, one in front one on left, which has allowed me to begin to add some other one handed combos that I avoided (work in progress). You can either use this for reference or give it a try but everyone's brain works differently. I think there are few sets of hotkeys in either tips or symbols section. I'd suggest that before setting up new keys you export the default OOB keys. Then every now and then export your own keys just in case you need them on a another machine of for migration or disasters. Mk_hotkey.zip

You can use up to 3 keys per. If using multiple keys don't use a single key that is also used in multiple combination. I use a two key form, the only singles I use are numbers.

Center and Reflect about also work that way-definitely hotkeys are the way to go.

Face frame-two cabinets. SOP for inset corner susans. Face frame.plan

another though (never could resist a rabbit hole). Decent results can be had using the method I use for changing material of cabinet interior. Need some seperate symbols for varied depths cabinets-I've posted stuff in the past in Symbols or Tips-check there for more. These could still use a little work for better vector view at the front (may not be possible) Anyway here ya go, last ones I'm trying. Drilled sides F.plan

I was wrong- sort of. Had a thought and gave it a quick go. There is an easy way if you don't care about vector or technical illustration or willing to clean up layout lines. Then again these don't show all that much in standard or PBR to be worthwhile. In any case here ya go. To make something with clean vector views will be much more difficult and I still don't think is worth the effort. But if you have a pay at it let us know what works eh? Drilled sides.plan

I would not even think about that. If needed for some strange customers then specify it. If thinking of CNC, or some other actual production were a spec won't suffice you should be looking into CabinetVision or other software made for the purpose. If it just amuses you it can be done building the entire cabinet from custom door symbols. (assuming you have too much time on your hands;->

YOu can make stretches with a custom cabinet door used as side panel inset. Shelves with holes -make it out of psolids and turn it into fixture interior. For the shelves you will likely need more than one symbol since they won't resize well-depends on what you're after. The stretcher included will resize in width just fine. You may need to alter the symbol if using wood instead of paint but whatdyawantfornuttin.:) This took 15 minutes Plan attached- go throught he DBX of the cabinet to understand what is going on, then OPEN SYMBOL of the included stretcher to see how that is set up-I set it for a 1/16" reveal. Then save these things and any you make to the library AND save the plans, particularly the holes, for reuse in the future. You can set you default cabinets to have stretchers like this. Cab with stretchers and holy shelves.plan

I agree entirely/ I'd pick which method you like, place cabinet in library and I keep plans like these in sub folders where I also keep symbol plans I made. That way it's easy to use again if it comes up and easy to set the size.

Had a play with some inserted doors-one in back and one on side. Those have issues too and since I don't need this now left it alone... A curious thing that I can't figure-in image cabinet on left is yours just moved over and added a side (has issue at toe) then took one of mine and changed the separation to 0-so both have the same settings -they don't look the same though? can't figure what happens there. Have to get back to work now though. Cabinets for Shelving 2.plan

Nothing- I overlapped them to close it up. Your plan has a U. That works fine the way you did it-center cabinet set to 0 separation. But if you want an ell, as the first images, doing it that way you need to float in a side panel of some sort-no big deal. I want to be able to resize at will which is why I did it the other way so no extra part to move. Just depends on what you need. If I needed an accurate schedule and resize then I'd use your method BUT add the side panel into the back of the cabinet. Just didn't want to get into how to do that (hack symbols) right now :).

Generally you can't get the automatic toe kicks to behave properly in these. Quick easy way is cabinet no toe kick, adjust height shorter and off the floor by the toe kick height. Add psolid or I like a molding line-snapped to the front with the molding offset by the correct depth. For more complicated situations I have a bunch of cabinet doors -flats that have an offset and depth and or width locked- that I use as toe kicks set into face of side, back, front ...depending. I also have cabinet door symbols that are the side of a cabinet with a toe in it. But all that is complicated and only needed in special cases.

Close- I don't set the separation to zero in box construction. Rather in the face item I set one or the other to that. Also use openings for one side.

Have shown this on the forum in the past-use an angle front cabinet and rotate it. Then you can still change the door style, a symbol won't let you do that. Once you have the angle correct and fit into place you can drag the end opposite the angle, the back in the one shown, along the wall to change the width. Angle cabinet.plan

From what I can tell based on the amount of data written when I monitor it undo does not save a complete plan. I believe it saves a set of instructions. AFAIK the important numbers are the ones inside the red boxes and I'm not sure which one. For undo it will be the read speed. Again from monitoring it does not appear that the bottleneck is in the drive itself but I could be wrong. I have a hunch it is after the drive -hoping it is the PCIE lanes. Which is why we'd like some real world idea if you can get one. Attached a shot of your benches and some of mine-I find they vary quite a bit both over time and what's been going on with the machine. No idea why.

Once upon a time the goto on the forum was Kerkythea (free) the predecessor to Thea. Kerkythea is still out there as a stand alone freeware. Look here I have no idea what the differences are, maybe Rene can tell you. When Thea was being released as a commercial product they had an early adopter price so I got a license for Studio. I only ever fiddled with it. Came a time that there was a kitchen job where I thought I'd need it. Rene was kind enough to give me a short tutorial on it-impressive. I fiddled a little more. PBR came out in Beta a few weeks later and that job went south so Thea sits unused. My work doesn't require more than I can do quickly with PBR, not near what Graham and Rene do, but using their tips the folks (extremely grateful fellas-thanks

Just saw this, what a great idea Rene! Looks like a lot more fun than actually doing it. Mine fit the two cars and the shop until a couple of months ago when staging the house. Now the downsizing has it in chaos. This is after two daughters were here over the weekend, left with full SUVs. I started rearranging for the moving sale late this am. I like your way better :)

Cool, I'm thinking along similar lines, waiting till after we move and get settled. Be curious how the undo set up works out. Maybe if you get a chance you might do one or two of Grahams stress tests?