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Everything posted by MarkMc
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Since X11 you no longer need to edit the pattern and texture offset separately. In the pattern tab just check off the sync option. IF you have already messed with the sync on one it's best to replace the texture from the library. I've had trouble when I forgot to start fresh with sync checked. BUT I've also had issue with some textures that had different setting to begin with. You want to start with both pattern and texture at 0, 0 AND both the same size (24, 24 or whatever) It might be possible to reset both to the original but again I"ve had trouble so just replace and check. I always toggle between standard and vector view to check before I start messing with the offsets (a lot of ID clients who want tile renders AND layouts).
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I placed the lights before drawing the ceiling grid. I altered the CAD block of the lights to have a fill. You only need to get a couple correct for control once you work out the location. For this one renders were important so after placing the lights I offset the ceiling material until it matched the lights. Note if you need that you need a new mateial per room with correct offset. Once your control lights are in make a room polyline, fill style grid 24 x 24, offset until it matches the lights (note my 24 x 48 are off). The fill for the CAD block was for the 24 x 48 lights to cover the grid. Then add any other lights. I don't bother with the edge molding unless needed for hi def rendering (in a smaller space...even then, seriously?) add it to the room DBX. or worst case a room molding pline. If you have to dimension to more than the lights a cad line or point here an there should do it, or a cad detail from view copied back in place hold position, lock layer.
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Early for me too, I didn't realize a symbol mod was needed till I saw your post
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Greg-why use psolid when shelves are automatic? Better to learn to deal with a few door symbols (especially for a KD). Attached plan has door symbols forced to remain specific size-everything else is just in the cabinet DBX. The other cabinet can just be done in the cabinet DBX as is. IF those notched shelves are wanted then draw one as a psolid and convert to a symbol. Save them all to library so can be used in the future. (KDs tend to do a lot use certain items repeatedly ) Tall broom.plan
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Welcome aboard. What you're asking is very basic, I suggest using some of the training and help resources first to get started.here are a lot of options-videos, help file, reference manual. You could : go to the Getting Started Resources section here on the forum place a cabinet into a plan, double click to open it, press the F1 key or click "Help" Just click Help and pick one of the resources listed, then look up cabinets download the PDF of the reference manual A short investment in time at the beginning pays big dividends in the long run. I found it worthwhile to have new people who worked for me take a short on line class from Chief, even take them myself still on occasion. Your experience with the software will be better if you have a good foundation in the basics. When you get stuck after trying something come here. Search to see what is already posted, be sure to also look in tips and symbols sections as well as the Q & A). Post a specific question and tell us what you tried (post an image of what you did, and or a plan) and what's not working. Be sure to read: How to get good answers when you ask questions Folks will also ask you to complete your signature and include computer information and version you are using.
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Do you have grid turned on in your PDF viewer? "Colors Panel” on page 112. Reference Grid The Reference Grid is an on-screen grid composed of regular squares that can be used to convey a sense of scale while drawing. It does not print.. " reference manual.
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Took a look, different. Near as I can tell all of the dwg files are 2D which will not make a symbol if that is what you are after. AFAIK there is no way to convert Revit symbols without having Revit (if anyone knows I'd love to hear?) Rummaging around there is one file zip file with a few 3DS files in it. IF any of those are what you are after they work. The file is 3form_shapes_files_3ds_format.zip. What it has in it: For any of the others you would have to start with something 2D and make a symbol from that. IF you have CAD details in Interiors (I know you don't have detail from view)-would be CAD, CAD detail management-new. You can bring in a 2D dwg and start from that. Bit of work though.
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Assuming you mean when the large monitor is connected to the laptop? that would indicate that the monitor is running off the Intel Card. On some laptops it is not possible to connect an external to the dedicated video card, it often depends on what the port you are using is attached to internally. FWIW I ran the test on a 27" 3k BenQ connected by displayport but my Sager does not have an Intel card. My last Sager had an Intel card and I could only get external monitors to behave properly connecting to a DVI port, HDMI and Displayports did not work well on that one.
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5 seconds here also after opening and closing for missing texture. Tried an old WC with lines I had, 295428 surfaces, 8.2 seconds. Tracked resources-very little GPU used-max 45%, 17% of GPU memory. OTOH CPU used all cores between 60 and 86% depending, average looks in the 70% range. memory and disk negligible.
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If the shared drive is a network drive you may find useful information here. offline folders sync Note toward the end they mention their own (Aomi, which was included with my WD mycloud but have not needed so can't say if any God. ) additional software which has extra features to avoid conflicts. Worth a look.
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Shows up with whatever you name it in the description so yes can call out LV but there is not an option to designate the symbol for LV. Can add a simple macro to an OIP to read out the total length if need be. Forgot to mention: After creating symbol you still have to bring it back in (replace from library is not available for the original) but can use centering option before deleting the original, then you need to connect to it. Once converted to a symbol you can no longer drag the ends to change the length. Instead you need to use the DBX. Can't use plan or temp dimensions to change length of either one. Dimension will snap to the center if it's converted to a symbol, to the ends if made using the rope light tool. If rendering matters you will also have to change the light data. Once converted the symbol can be copied and rotated to use vertically. All reasons why I just made a fistful to use as needed (the electrician prefer fixed plug and play units, they really dislike playing with the tape)
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The symbol origins are not set to allow them to go into a cabinet. You need to make a copy of it-either place in the plan OR copy and paste to user library. Open symbol, change the Y origin. If in plan add to library (if copied to the user library you can change it once it is there) Appliance placement adjusted.zip
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If I don't tell them it's low voltage they run 110 tails to each location, have had that even when LV was shown (because he didn't like LV). I just think the job is to draw what's supposed to be, 110v, 220v, LV. If you don't want to bother you can just draw the light, select, convert to symbol-electric, optons:light, switched. Done, it will now connect, no extra lights or layers.
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I don't know of a rope or strip light that uses line voltage AND I've alter the actual light properties so they work better in renderings. I ended up making them to sizes which is how I order/specify them nowadays (actual rope lights belong in another century ;-> then converting to an electric symbol-options switched. Then can connect them as needed but I connect to a transformer and change the line between it and the light to LV.
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I generally keep auto fillers off but if you must: place a filler or cabinet next to it needs to be 3" wide, no countertop; 1/16 h and 1/16 d so it doesn't interfere with room moldings. You can hide it by A- set it on a new hidden layer with line style set to invisible (hides it in all views), B -make materials all match the baseboard (hides in all 3D views except glass) C- set all materials to opening no material (hides in Standard and PBR) D-some combination of those
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Ceiling Tile Color in PBR - WIth / WIthout lighting
MarkMc replied to Evolution's topic in General Q & A
Had a play with it. Cut down on the normal map which is emphasizing the dark part of the text in the image. Had a play with adjusting materials of the ceiling lights and the ceiling. Then lighting and sun. Not as good as the PBR guys but better. Included two PBR cameras with different settings for lights and sun but same material definitions. So long as it is an OTR (over the range micro) you can. Actually it was the range and that comment that got me interested in this. The one pictured is not since it isn't the full width of the range. I still avoid them as a safety hazard (spilling hot liquids when removing at that height) and work flow bottleneck (second person can't get at micro when the cook is there). There is no landing or clearance to the side of the range. NKBA guidelines are minimum 12" so you can turn a pot handle out and not have it over a burner. All appliance mfg list minimum to sides-usually 5 or 6" to combustible. In these parts inspectors use the mfg specs for code. Lastly there why bump up the cabinet above? Orphanos Foundation Renovations adj.zip -
Way to go,ets easier with practice. Tip for getting used to new version : the PDF of the Reference Manual lists "what's new ". Each new feature listing has link to its page in the manual. Might want to get both X 10 & 11 manuals since there's been a lot. I still use that section
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Web Meeting-Using Chief to get to a cabinet order.
MarkMc replied to MarkMc's topic in General Q & A
That meeting was a year ago. A partial video is posted above as is a zip folder with files from it. There's other useful things in this section and symbols. May go back as much as 3 years. Look around. -
Took a look around and came across this which has a couple of things worth looking into. https://visser.io/2016/04/fix-for-stuttering-lag-in-bluetooth-mouse-on-windows-10/ I also so one post that the issue was caused by heat throttling the CPU which can happen on tablets. I'd check that too.
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Not the mouse driver, the bluetooth driver(s) are where the issue has been.
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Are you on Windows 10 build 1903? is is recentt update? or did you get another Win update recently? There was a known issue with Bluetooth with the update and or maybe they tried to fix that and messed yours up? Just a thought-might try to roll back driver instead of update.
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I"m not one of the macro gurus mentioned above (do look for posts by them elsewhere) but have been going through the learning. I've tried a number of things what works for me may not work for you or the reverse. Go through the Ruby Tutorial in Chief-more than once and occasionally after. There is also some useful info in the current Reference Manual. Look at macros posted on the forum and try to understand them. Test parts in the Text macro management console. There are a lot of resources on the web: pdf books, cheat sheets, and what I call Ruby Central I like physical paper books but found very few useful beginners books-some are positively useless."Ruby Programming For Beginners -The Simple Guide to Learning Ruby Programming language Fast!" is small, intimidating and OK Forget about fast-go slow. Learn to enjoy the expression "Evaluation Error" Do small things first (maybe for a long while) Get a language aware text editor (I use Notepad ++, think Joe has a better one?) Do NOT install Ruby on your machine-it will only confuse you. A great deal of what is written applies only to Ruby on your machine and not in Chief-skip those parts. The one book I found that really useful for me is "The Well Grounded Rubyist" which can be had in a bundle combining a physical book (Pbook) and digital formats if you get it fromt he publisher (Manning) Different folks have different styles of working with Ruby some will make more sense to you than others. Don't let it bother you if you don't get what one person offers that is different from what another offers. There are often several ways to get something done in Ruby. I've had some time with several people-sometimes it's helped a little, sometimes not so much. (Think it's how I'm put together). YMMV IF it's really important pay one of the folks who does this to do it for you. Most of what I do is simple so I can now manage. The few things that are complicated, difficult are not important to me at the moment so I'm just fitting them in somewhere along the way (charity work if you will) Above all be patient.
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Automatic Interior Dimensions -- no option
MarkMc replied to jeannerapone123's topic in General Q & A
Auto interior dimension tool is not listed there in Premier either but I'd be surprised if you don't have it in Interiors. Did you check Help? reference manual? look in your dimension defaults-is it listed there? if it is AND you don't have the icon pictured on the toolbar you can add it (look in help on how) Welcome aboard- take some time to fil in your signature-makes it easier for people to help. Be sure to download the PDF of the reference manual. It's a great resource, good bed time reading :) -
I didn't notice that since I often check here on my phone which doesn't show sigs and I tend to assume folks are up to date. Didn't' see that you were on X9 until I redid it in X10. Ah well. Sorry I only have 9 on my 2 in 1 and likely taking it off of there. In any case since I went ahead with it FWIW you can ease into new things in X11 -worth the time and effort IMO. X10 2 hinge.plan
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AFAIK cabinets are hard wired to have 3 hinges if the height is greater than 39" (many makers have 3 at 39") To change it visually you need a door symbol with two hinges and no knob or handle. Set cabinet to have hidden hinges. The bounding box and origin need to be adjusted. Made this one from a 15" cabinet. When turning into a symbol the bounding box wants to be 15 5/8 which includes the hinge. Changed BB to 15" then offset the X origin by 5/16 to center the box on the door, set the stretch zones so rails, stiles and hinges don't change when resizing. For some reason that I don't understand it needs to be made with hinges on the right to work properly. (Open Symbol and see what's going on, then go to videos or reference manual for more on symbols) IF you need to change the hing quantity in the material list that gets done in the components tab. I included a simple macro that does that. It's in the two cabinets on the far left in the plan (not in the picture) one of which I set to default. You can do something similar to change the notation for hidden hinge if need be but only if you are serioulsy using the ML. Two hinge door.plan
