robdyck

Auto-dimensions or manual? Auto-dimensions have a tendency to not display when switching between views. They will re-appear by modifying anything that they are locating.

I hate that Chief hasn't fixed the ridiculous brick ledge settings by all the various stone materials. Chief - you aren't qualified to determine the brick ledge settings. Undo them all and leave this up to the building designer. This is especially true for adhered manufactured stone veneer.

I can tell you what I love the most about X14...Chief X13 wrecked almost all the CAD blocks for my symbols when they were resized in a plan. X14 now automatically keeps the CAD block, the way Chief always used to. Sweet mother what a relief. IMO X13 was the most costly version to production and I'm very happy that X14 has new features focused on production.

I was separating them for awhile and then went back to the single Walls, Normal layer. For some reason I found it a hassle that simply wasn't necessary in every plan. I decided I would change them on a case-by-case basis if I came into a situation where I thought it would be beneficial (rendering or con docs).

Has anyone experienced rich text boxes being a different size in X14 than in X13? In the first plan I tried in X14 I had to resize all the rich text boxes that had borders.

For me, the go-to is I-joists or parallel chord roof trusses, and almost always spray foam is needed. Ventilation of these roofs can often be problematic in several areas.

To your original post and question / comments: I think when / if wall details are provided, some drawing notes could indicate that site modifications may be made at the builder's discretion. There would be time where no modifications would be acceptable and that could be noted on a case-by-case basis. That being said, even a firm drawing may require modifications; for instance a 2-story wall is often slightly higher than the drawing dimensions. Foam sill gasket or sealant under plates, poly or building paper wrapped under plates, swollen floor sheathing, or slight imperfections in plate straightness can all add to the total height. I usually needed to add ≈1/16" per assembly to the height of a 2-story wall for a neat match at the top, with the goal of being 1/16"-1/8" lower to allow for settling of the adjacent walls over time.

https://3d-viewer.chiefarchitect.com/go?share=134531133112543

This one had relatively basic wall framing, but varying heights as it was a new house using shorter exterior walls with scissors trusses to create the older feel of rooms in the attic.

How so?

When 'tall walls' exist, I provide wall framing details for those walls. Currently, in my region, these must be engineered so my wall details do 99% of the ground work for the engineer who reviews, edits if needed, and stamps the drawing. These drawings include a schedule which can be used to cut every piece, and I also include a hardware schedule for everything except nails. For somewhat complex houses I have provided wall faming details for an entire floor. It greatly reduces the time and potential for error on site and I quite enjoy drawing them.

Does anyone have a link for reporting bugs? For some reason I can't find it...

In Canada, cardboard 'insulation stops' are stapled into place between the roof trusses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akvpF4_0JWU

Open any dialog box and click the Number Style button at the bottom left.

Solution: Close Chief. Re-open Chief. This will allow re-enable the minimize window button. Minimize the Project Browser Window Grab the Top of the PB window and carefully drag and hover until the desired docking location is actively highlighted. Release the PB window and never touch it again, intentionally or accidentally!

The Project Browser can become undocked and then it is visible but Chief doesn't recognize it. It makes it tough to drag it back into place when Chief doesn't recognize it. Does anyone know of a fix for this? Notice in the snippet that the PB window header has rotated to the side. I can see the PB but the cursor behaves as though it's all the plan window.

A few different cameras with separate sun settings and a video editor to stitch them together is all that would take.

I think that's kind of the idea. Unfortunately the const. lines stop walls on their finished layer (instead of the MAIN LAYER) which kind of defeats the purpose of using the const. line in the first place. For interior items it'd probably be best to use a layer set with those lines turned off. That's what I do, anyhow.

you can just type the math into the field. "109.125+43"

Other way around...it is the attic walls that change. They auto build to fill the space between the ceiling and the roof. A simplified explanation.

Generally speaking...for each instance, the roof baseline should be aligned with the outside of the exterior wall and the baseline should be the desired heel height above the ceiling elevation. For example, a 109 1/8" ceiling would result in a roof baseline elevation of 152 1/8", for the 43" energy heel.

It's the automatic label and the type code 3040 reads as "3 - oh - 4 - oh" and means 3'-0" x 4'-0" (width is always first). DC means "double casement". What would you like to change?

I paid this fella @Alaskan_Son to write some gibberish on the back of a digital napkin and somehow it saves me time and makes my plan look better. Scientology...go figure, but it works! I'd get in touch with him if I were you!

interior trim category