robdyck

Before adjusting the light settings, it's a good idea to create a new light set. I give them a name that coordinates with the camera name or the room name that the light set will be used in.

You can create that molding, add it to the library and use it as a lintel. This molding should be drawn in section view and should stop at the the outside of the wall cladding (don't draw it to the sheathing layer. You can use the same molding and draw a molding line in plan view or a 3d molding line in elevation view. This molding should be drawn in section view and can be drawn accurately, to the sheathing or membrane layer. Here, I've used a library molding of a 1x8 (with drip flashing above and below) for the exterior lintel. Note that it butts up against the wall cladding. If I draw the molding manually, I get more control over the molding, but lose the automatic resize with the window

Something like this?

FWIW, it's probably much, much more cost-effective to buy them! All you'd need to do is contact someone who knows how, describe what you need, and send them some dough! I paid for mine and that has saved me tons of time / money! One quick example; I ordered a custom set of macros for a specific, repetitive task (used in almost every plan set I do) which cost me about $100 USD and a conservative estimate would be that it has saved me 200 hours over 5 years. Not to mention that it probably would have taken 50 hours+ of my time learning Ruby. My own sarcastic view is that learning Ruby is for people with no money and nothing to do:) I'm kidding of course...or am I? A few individuals who can help you out: @Alaskan_Son @Joe_Carrick @solver

also reasonably close, especially seeing it's not my project! I quickly made this...it is seamless.

Reasonably close.

In some previous versions, a polyline with a fill pattern that was added to the library to serve as a molding, would generate its set fill pattern in section view. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to work in X14.

Rebar in a cross section or in a section detail? To show rebar in a drawing less than 1" scale would just be silly. However, if you did indeed use a cylinder from the library of geometric shapes, it will not generate a fill pattern in section view. No symbol does. It will not even generate cross section lines. A 3d solid or a molding line will at least generate cross section lines.

That's what I would have suggested as well. Attic walls don't always rebuild perfectly especially if they have been moved.

It is not checked in the plan you posted. Checking it fixes the heights. Change this material in the window defaults.

dropbox or google drive link. Or make a copy of the file, strip unnecessary items and then zip it up.

I think you used a short segment of wall for your pilaster and changed the wall width. Try using a slab for the pilaster / footing instead. You will end up with a line where the pilaster and wall meet, but the footing controls will be separated.

Depending on what info you want included, you could use these 2 columns to drop the library symbol name.

As an experiment add the following 2 columns to your schedule: Type and Style. Together those form most of the automatic description. And your right, the description takes the name of the Library symbol.

Hey Bruce, you gotta help us to help you! Simply make a copy of the plan file, and strip it down, then zip it up. Or use a dropbox or google drive link. The plan file is pretty important to seeing what's going on...in the plan file!

You can mess around with the Edit Wall Layer Intersections tool or you can use a material region for the black wall cladding, set to Cut Finish Layers...

Hi Gene, select that wall and uncheck Pony Wall. It will then rebuild correctly and Chief will rebuild it as a Pony Wall.

Absolutely. But where are these rectangular properties? I see one of those every two years:)

A bit more trickery that's super fast: adjust corner board settings to 1/16 x 1/16 and auto-place corner boards on foundation. If the grade is flat, you can select them all and adjust the bottom elevation all at once. Another option: use a really small solid and save it to your library. Set it's elevation relative to the terrain, make it tall enough for all conditions and place them manually at every outside corner. They'll always be at the right elevation (the top will be buried inside the upper wall's cladding). Drawback is they don't 'stick' to the wall so if you move a wall, it's not going along for the ride. So the question is: what will stick to the wall corner and have an elevation relative to the terrain? If only we had all elevation options (with locks) for all objects! Then the corner board would work nicely to solve this.

@jasonn1234 You would need to use plot lines with Pattern Line Defaults unchecked (set color by material). Even then, in layout, the terrain pattern lines are placed behind the foundation wall lines. In the image below I made them blue so they'd be more obvious. If I needed such a mask, I would already have that cad polyline in each elevation camera, saved in my template plan. It would be faster to adjust the polyline than all the materials and layout box settings. Or the opposite, you could set the foundation as dashed, then draw a solid line above grade.

They are used to help locate major portions of a structure. I would never use them on a residential plan set unless it is quite large and/or complex and they are needed to help builders with layout and to communicate where something is located. On a very large building, it can really make it simple to discuss the plan set with other plan readers (for example: Please refer to the linen closet that is to the left of grid line 3 and above grid line C). For smaller plans, you're simply wasting your own time, cluttering the drawing and probably confusing the trades (unless it is a common practice in your region).

This is a regular go-to for me. Does Chief ever model the railing in the correct position?

For the 2nd Floor Bath cheek wall, you'll need to use a 2x6 interior wall for the lower portion because Chief will extend the floor platform out to the exterior of the 2x6 Siding wall (so it will show through from the main floor. Again, 2nd floor cheek wall should stop at the ceiling break line. This wall should NOT be cut by the roof. And, on the main floor, you'll need to pull the ceiling plane back so it does not cut that exterior cheek wall.