robdyck

Thanks Michael. Finally the statistical odds are working for me...you throw enough stuff out there and something's gotta stick!

One relatively simple way would be to create wall types that matches the roof and floor assemblies for the sole purpose of schedule inclusion. A custom schedule may be required to avoid the hassle of renaming the column "Wall Type".

Looks like you nailed it Alan. FWIW your symbol is twice as thick as the real model (although this will help it show up better) and it only comes in black. Edited version is attached. APGP Decorative Gable Plate.calibz

Whoops. Edited my post.

If it's helpful, the counter tops will generate as long as there is more than a 3" gap. It may work for you to use a partition to fill the void, reduce the lower cabinet's depth, and adjust the overhang of both cabinets as needed. In this pic, the lower cabinet over hangs the back by 3 1/6". The upper overhangs by 16", and there is a partition in between with a depth of 3 1/16".

That's right, and even with a 2X12, the rise would be limited to 7 1/8"...not quite enough for some installations. There are some fairly simple methods to add material below the rim joists in order to provide increased backer material. Easy enough to detail if necessary, but no doubt each carpenter may have their own preferences. Michael provided one nice example that's very simple to execute.

https://www.strongtie.com/deckconnectors_decks/lsc_connect/p/lsc

A quick google search of "stair to deck connections" would show many appropriate connecting methods that resolve the 'nailing' issue. Just the thought of stair stringers end nailed or toe-nailed to a rim-joist is cringe-worthy.

EDITED: removed my comment because I didn't read the post carefully enough!

Change your wall framing material to steel studs. Change your header framing material to C-channel.

You will find that this method will give undesirable results with the railing. I'm not aware of an easy fix for this.

I made this useless little video showing deck railing can be placed anywhere you'd like. In the video, you'll notice I have 1" grid snaps turned on as well as a 12" grid and the deck railing will automatically be drawn on a 1" grid line. Then, each move will remain on that grid unless I choose otherwise. There should be no reason that you can't move your railing wherever you'd like it to be. @jonow6 If you post your plan, I'd be happy to look into it movingdeckrailing.mp4

The very fastest way to get help would be to post the plan. Then we can identify exactly what needs to be done instead of using the SWAG method.

generate between platforms, perhaps...

Couple of questions / points: why would you need framing for an invisible wall? a polyline solid will not build framing why do you need framing built for a soffit? You can detail this using CAD tools in a section view or a CAD detail. You can put the p-solid on the soffit layer, but that doesn't change any other properties of the p-solid. Yes, to ignore framing. Solids will be the fastest, simplest and most stable way to accomplish what (I think) you want for both plan view and 3D views.

A few options: Put those notes on their own layer, make that layer really bright, like neon pink or something. That way it'll be very obvious that you've left it on and you can turn it off before pritning. Or use a different layer set for printing that already has your notes layer turned off. Call it something like "PRINTING SET" and that will also be fairly visually obvious to identify before hitting print. Both require habits to be formed.

What they said ^^^. However, once you're ready to rotate the property p-line, select the desired property line and double-click the make parallel tool, then click on the wall segment you'd like it to be parallel with.

And, when you want to re-use it, you'll be placing a CAD block, not a text object, and it will be on the default cad layer. If / when you explode it, it will revert back to its original layer and you can also then edit the text if needed.

Don't do it!

I assume you already drew plans for the home. If so, I'd draw the ADU as a separate plan. If I needed to show them together for visuals, I'd convert the ADU to a fixture (once its complete) and place it as an object in the original plan.

Not sure how you did it, but make sure the file isn't in use and use the choose files button...don't drag it in.

I use a separate layer set for the rear elevation (for example) when I don't want to show some trim elements.

That description is especially short on specifics. Very difficult to offer any suggestions. Screenshots, plan files and a signature would be a helpful starting point.

Oh geez, another typo! This time in your door label. Not trying to be annoying, but I'd want someone to point it out if it was mine.

Transitions made no difference. It was a single staircase with a wall on one side that was not as long as the stairs and was partially under the stair edge. To be honest it was a bit of a weird video as it's less than practical to any normal situation one would find in a home.