tommy1

Or place a solid in an elevation to cover it up. Set materials.

Todd, I'm working on a house right now that has a bay window (see image). I generally do all my bay windows manually if I need to be fairly specific and need to have windows that can't be done using the auto bay window tool. In general, I usually set the floor system for the bay window, floor height (raised) and ceiling height before I place any windows or roof. Do not drag up walls for you see what problems you get. I use a doorway to create the opening from inside and suppress the casing is needed. In an elevation from the inside, drag up the doorway from the bottom and pull it down from the top to adjust the inside opening. You can fill the bottom with a solid or something...same for the window ledge on the inside. It doesn't take long to do it once you've done it a few times.

Once the wall is hatched another way to remove the hatch is click on the hatch tool again. Now when you select the hatched wall, it will select the hatch first instead of the wall.

In general, you want your fascia to be one size larger than your rafter. You're going to have 3D problems with Chief the way you're doing it.

Merry Christmas to all Chief users. Fixing to renew SSA next week. Can't wait to see the new things when it comes out.

As mentioned, print at "actual size". No borders and don't print to fit.

Why don't you just turn off the invisible wall layer?

Thank you, I deleted the thread about the DWG because I saw it had a seal on it. Thank you again so much.

It's easier and less work if in the elevation you use a solid to start with in stead of converting a rectangular cad polyline. Doing it this way will place it in the plan view on the correct floor level as well.

I usually do what Perry does or I make it a solid railing wall and change the materials for the top rail and change the drywall to tile. You have more flexibility using a solid though. I use a glass wall for the glass or I use symbols I made for the glass panels and glass door. Several ways to do this.

Same should apply if you select the text parent too first, then draw marquee around text and the text should be selected. This will apply too if you want to select text, electrical or a dimension line that is over another object. Hit that parent tool and it should select that item first.

Place a door. Open it> library>gates. You might not like all the selections though.

Newell, I guess I should look at your plan but if the crown is continuous around the building and changes angles on sides, then it sounds like you'll have to use a 3D molding polyline instead of a standard polyline.

I think we just said the same thing?

Newell, haven't looked at your plan but just place a line in plan view, convert to a molding and assign molding and place the correct height. At the ends, place a break and bend it back to create a return to the wall.

BTW, once you delete all unwanted surfaces and save it as a symbol, you can place that new symbol in a blank plan and add to it to modify it more and then save it again as a new and improved symbol. Done it many times.

If you delete surfaces like Joe mentioned (what I normally do), then be sure you rotate it around sideways and up and down to be sure you delete all unwanted surfaces. There's only been one symbol I've done that you could not delete all unwanted surfaces so far.

File>import> .skp

Kinko's used to print in color for $10.00/ sq. ft. using a laser printer. Don't know what they charge now but that was wayyyy too much. We make our pdf in color but print in grayscale. Katy uses her plotter to print.

They have never worked for library door I believe.

I would hope and think that all beta testers would remember that when replying here, they need to reply with an answer that is good for at least the current version available to all...not a current beta version.

By default, in a render or elevation Chief will select the room before the walls. When you select, hit the tab key and you'll select the wall. You can change which is selected first (room or wall) in the preferences. BTW, when you select something, look at the bottom left of your monitor and it will tell you what you have selected.

Yes, and when you do it this way, you'll have to change the origins of the light fixture so it look right in 3D. The easiest way to do this is to take elevations and tile the views so you can watch how the fixture moves when you change the origin. I've gone over this several times in our user group. BTW, it's important to remember to copy it to your user library first.

A lot of times it doesn't work.

Just a suggestion. I would check with the local permit office to see what's required for a permit. I've done work with an Architect in Galveston and in Galveston, you can't get a permit unless it's stamped by an Architect and the engineer has to be registered for Galveston. Also the structural plans and details have to be supplied by the engineer in Galveston. All the rules have changed for new construction along the coast (or 30 miles in) since Hurricane Ike hit. I'm only speaking for my experience in Galveston work. BTW, everything has been beefed up structurally for remodels too in the Galveston area. The 100 yr. flood zones changed after Ike too.