GeneDavis

Seeking services?

Behaves as expected here. My ceiling planes jump from inside framing line, and roof baselines are on outside framing lines.

Sometimes, additions after additions do not end well.

You can build a roof, then frame it which will generate lookouts for the gables, then raise the roof the appropriate distance to house the lookout profile when moved up to rafter top. Move one lookout, edit it for length, then repeat-copy as needed. Just make sure you haven't checked to auto reframe roofs. You'll need to elevate all the eave and rake work, meaning subfascia and fascia. I did not go as far as dealing with fascia, but in the image here, I moved one of the gable subfacia members up.

Thread winner!

I would call it skip sheathing, something one would do on a barn that's gonna get wood shingles or shakes.

For this one from last year, I tried a bunch of stuff but gave up and used solids to do the drywall fills where needed. The trusses framed correctly, as did the cheek walls. I recall doing the 2x4 ceiling joists manually.

But you'll have to know how the preferred truss supplier likes to place girders and hips. Those are key. The rest is just boilerplate.

Both, I guess. I recall him saying he has no internet, just a smartphone connected via a tower somewhere. He must have to truck into town every week or so to connect his laptop to wifi to satisfy Chief's need for web connectivity.

This is the guy that can't post plans, and gives us images of his screen with his cell phone. Sounds like he solved it by doing room open below, but he gave us no pic of the problem solved. Another BnC mystery.

Somebody tell us why the sheathing should sit on and have its face flush to a foundation. This does not seem like a good practice, particularly in this current age of rainscreen walls.

Is this the "ladder," i.e. embedded pressure treated 2x6s? Lotta lumber. Where is finished grade?

Foundations built to eighths and sixteenths are never gonna happen. I know there are local practices, and this one's pretty dumb. I want whole inches for outside dimensions, and framing to those building lines. Describe the feature or benefit if aligning sheathing to foundation (which is always gonna be off line somewhere) and why you cannot do what's done most everywhere.

Searched for "craftsman bungalow windows" and lo!

Looks like craftsman pattern to me.

Here's a hint: "sill"

And the cross-bands? Would they be 11" sections of road?

I did it for a three floor house, 0, 1, and 2, the extra plating needed on 1. Did it Chopsaw's way, and it went quickly.

Find it in section view and drag it close, then zoom way in and be more precise.

You can control the stem wall height by editing structure of the room above. I drew a one room house, built its foundation with a 96 inch stemwall, and here is the structure dialog ready for whatever I want to do with height.

What have you tried? How precise must alignment be, and how can you proof it?

Hey Eric, show us the light's settings. Thanks.

Edit in the plan, not by changing defaults.

All the foundation builder needs is shown on the plan view he uses. He is issued just two prints out of a 24-page set. The 3" depth is done by him using two thicknesses of 2x lumber screwed to his forms. The LVLs bearing in these only need 1-3/4" for full load.

Hail Perry!