GeneDavis

You cannot make the vertical (wall) face of the p'solid one color, and the sloped underside (ceiling) face another, so it does not do the job needed. Chief has code written to diddle walls at roof intersects, and to track stairs to handle railings (follow stairs). I'll write up a suggestion.

When your wall is one color and ceiling another, it's a tedious process to get the surfaces precise and seamless. This is s common-enough situation in walls and stairs for Chief to solve with tools.

The search tool here does not help me find threads dealing with this. I have a wall next to a stairway from basement to floor 1, and a return wall under where we get enough headroom for doing something under, in our case a fridge for the lounge room wet bar. How does one get a triangle-shaped wall up there to close off the stairway side? I don't want to have to edit-shape a wall, or do a p'solid. I'm hoping to learn something new and useful.

That did it. Thanks.

In a garage with storage in attic framed with attic trusses, I drew a hole in ceiling, in which to place the 3D model of folding attic stairs I got from the 3D warehouse. I want to show the client what he'll see when going up there in this 3'8" high space, and lo and behold, there is a ceiling above the ceiling hole. How do I delete the ceiling finish? Edit: for the purpose of doing an image, I can delete it with the Delete Surfaces tool, but how do I make it really gone?

You'll need a new wall defined as sheathing and finish, but here's how I did it. Copy the wall type used for exterior in your plan. Save it as Gable Truss Face or anything else you want to call it. Delete the interior finish layer, likely drywall. Change the material (texture) of the main framing layer to Insulation Air Gap. Now you've a wall you can align to the one below.

Rafter tail won't work. What you need is a fascia tail. I do the barge rafters with the 1.5" or 2" roof plane method, and I add a small shadow board to match the minimal facia in the adjoining eave. CAD detail from view in section is the means of getting the top and bottom edges of the decorative end, a poly solid. If the client's gonna pay the builder to doodle these, he's gonna have to pay you to model them so there's clear direction on con docs of what to do. The 3D is a byproduct of this work.

Take a look in defaults. Saved Text Styles>Default Label Style

Model the feature as a solid, save it as a symbol, place it on the front of a slab-door cabinet. But I've no info on how to do this in Interiors X12. Me, with Premier X12, I'd just do it fast in Sketchup, and import it as a symbol.

Check No Room Definition for one of the walls, in the wall dbx.

Look at the Locate Objects tab in Auto Exterior Dimension Defaults. You've got your options there. That'll locate interior walls to their centerlines, the ones that join exterior walls. Manually drawn interior wall dimensions will not default to wall centers and will need to be edited. Quickly done in a typical 3600 sf house plan.

When I started drawing residential plans, I worked with some Amish framers in NE Indiana that preferred to have the dimensions on plans, those that located the interior walls that intersected building lines (exterior wall lines), done as running dimensions. If plans did not have running dims for this, they would do the math and mark them up. One would stand at the zero hook-on end, reading the plans, and call out the numbers, each number called was either "and GO" or nothing. If nothing, the X went on the origin side, if "and GO," the X went on the away side. Thus "12'-6 1/2 and GO," got its X on the far side, and "16'-7" got its X on the near side. Watching and listening as these guys marked out and snapped a deck, I learned how to do an important part of framing. The software I used then rotated the dimension text 90 from the line, placing it right above the witness line. I wish Chief had this feature. The wall elevation sample attached here shows the running dim thing in play on a wall frame elevation. This, for a panelized job, to ensure R.O.s are where they belong.

Strategy for keeping all your frame carpenter employees from leaving you and going to work elsewhere: 1. Make them lay out for all interior walls from the centerlines you give them on the prints. 2. The exterior walls? Dimension them on plans not to the framing line, but to the sheathing line 7/16" outboard. They snap the inside lines at 5-15/16" in from those building lines dimensioned on the floor plans. But of course round up to 6. Keep your thinking cap on if you are cutting plates from the paper plans, not from what the chalklines tell you. Guys working this way a couple years will need retraining to go to work elsewhere. I framed three houses from plans done by Minneapolis architects, and all were dimensioned the conventional way, to stud faces. The situation you describe must be a small alternative framing universe, and I'll bet the world outside it works with plans dimensioned conventionally. I'm curious, do your foundation wall lines flush to the stud face, or to the sheathing face?

Here's Autodesk giving a tutorial on dimensioning. https://revitpure.com/blog/14-beginner-tips-to-create-a-floor-plan-in-revit I'm sure Revit'll do centers, but they're showing edges here.

Imagine all that time lost and potential for error, making a mark, then a second mark at 1-3/4 or 2-3/4 offset.

All the framers I know want interior walls dimensioned to an edge, not to the center. Look at the example plans you see at the Chief site, all of which are showing interior wall locations this way. No matter how long one has worked with CAD packages, one will still need to educate oneself on how Chief works and how to set it up for your preferences. You can dimension to wall lines, wall centers, to inside finish surface, you can dimension in mm, inches, feet decimal, feet and inches, you can show the zeros, drop the zeros, you can do almost anything you want. But you will have to learn how, and the help files right in the program will be your greatest aid.

Adobe has what you want. You print to .pdf, your marker-upper opens the file in Acrobat, and doodles to her heart's content. Watch this.

By editing the material. Open the material spec for edit, and look at the image for texture, which will be a square with some number of courses of lap siding. If the image is nine courses high, change its size to 90 x 90. Make sure the pattern is gotten from the texture, so vector views match what you want. Try it out!

"Switched" to me has always meant half, and the usage has always been nightstand lighting in bedrooms. If both were switched it would fiddle with your clock radio, or your charge jack.

HD users have their own forum.

Thanks, and that's how I've set up my template plan. I needed to do the changes to an existing plan done a year ago.

This is the Chief Architect forum. Shouldn't you be posting this elsewhere?

Switched is the term I have been using.

Good ideas and thank you.

'Twas done way before SPV. I got asked to do a material list for sheetrock, and that wall has a lot of un-needed rock on it.