dshall

Does this work for you?

You have no ceiling finish

THANK YOU J Johnson... that is the ticket!

Here is another option. This is what Fiberon states about their ProTech Advantage Decking Fiberon Decking And if you live in a wildfire-prone region, consider ProTect Advantage FR Decking. You'll enjoy all the beauty and benefits of original ProTect Advantage plus the comfort of knowing the "FR" boards have been tested and approved for use in Wildland Urban Interface (WUI) zones.

Nope, he wanted the decking. I started with the dex-o-tex. BTW, This is in the middle of La Jolla but just so happens to have a bit of natural canyon behind it so it needs to be 1-hour. The house two doors down recently had a huge deck put on and they used Trex decking. Why can they use Trex and I can't? I do not know. I am really getting burned out with the land mines I am always seeming to step in. Recently went to submit a project, a new unit on a lot with an existing house (zoned for the extra unit), and the submittal was rejected because I did not have a landscape and irrigation plan. I have never had that happen unless it was for a CDP..... which I thought would be needed..... but nope, for some unknown reason, the owner says we will not need one, he even checked with the city. Oh well, if it was too easy, the owners would do this themselves and I would not have a job .

Thanks Steve.... that might work...

Hi Guys, I need to do a Heavy timber deck construction. I think that means: 8x8 posts (or is it 6x6, I have seen it both ways) 6x8 or 4x10 beam minimum 3x ledgers 2x6 t&g decking for a roof .......and....... what can I use for DECKING for a deck? I want to use 2x6 decking with a 1/8" gap but I do not think it will work Trex is is out because it is flammable... any ideas for the decking?

I use a similar method. I found this much more user friendly vs looking for details in a library.

difficult question to answer, many variables, I usually make my own post footings and put them on foundation layer.... many ways and many variables...

How did you get the inside main wall. USED DASH REF SET LAYER foundation blocks to be dashed lines? COPIED THE LAYER THE WALL ARE ON, PUT THOSE WALL ON THAT LAYER ANS THEN MAKE THAT LAYER DASHED

You are very close. This is how I would do it. Put the CMU wall on a dashed layer and create a solid polyline with a concrete fill to give it a perimeter definition. Not a perfect solution because it requires a cad line representing the SLAB.

Funny, I see it just the opposite.

That is almost always the case for me, therefore I may use auto build roof and foundation once and then turn auto off and edit any differences.

This is the second thread that addressed this. I think it was electric man who clued me in. BTW, do it on your Ipad also.

Try this, on Iphone go to SETTINGS<SAFARI and then make sure that "MOTION & ORIENTATION ACCESS" is CHECKED.

Since we now have the ability to create multiple ref sets, putting the terrain on different levels is an option. I am experimenting putting the terrain on level zero. The advantage of this is a FLOOR OVERVIEW of level zero will also show the terrain. If the terrain was on level 1 or 2 or above, the terrain would not be visible from a floor overview of level zero. This way it is easier to see how the terrain works with the foundation. It is a little cumbersome doing it this way, I have done it on 3 jobs and so far I do see the advantages but there is some time involved getting comfortable with this method. BTW, I do as Maureen does.... putting basement/walk out basement on level 1. This way any mono slab/footings seem to work well on level zero. I did a GTM with Michael on this and I think we both came to the same conclusion as Moe.

I use a solid fill so it will hide walls below (I use a ref layer for floor below) yet I can see the walls below that are not under the floor above....

THX

I saw nothing in plan. Cid anybody else see anything in the plan?

Hi All, I need a GTM if available..... I need help importing DXF, if you have some time between now (5:37 pm pst and 9:00 pst). please email me at dscotthallATmacDOTcom

Thanks for this.

What Mark failed to say (and I know he knows this), is he does not have his doors and drawers on the correct side. He should of put the doors and drawers on the left side of the cabinet and a blank front. It seems silly that you cannot adjust the lengths of front and back of the cabinet independently. (you can adjust the 2 sides independently, but I will say at one time we could not do this until CA made it possible to customize each face of cabinet.

I have been doing some in the county...... I am finding it difficult to get a definitive answer to the question.

Yeah, I have a hot key for it. It's crazy that it is not there anymore.